Since a devastating fish kill blighted the waters along 190km of coastline in central Vietnam, hundreds of people are believed to have fallen ill from eating poisoned fish. Here in the fishing village of Nhan Trach, the squid that sustain the local economy have virtually disappeared. And a fishing ban has left hundreds of traps sitting unused on the beach and dozens of small fishing boats idle.
"We are so angry," said Pham Thi Phi, 65, who operates a fishing boat in Nhan Trach with her husband and three grown sons. "If we knew who put the poison in the ocean, we would like to kill them. We really need to have an answer from the government on whether the ocean is totally clean and the fish are safe to eat."
While the immediate cause appears to have been toxic waste from a nearby steel mill, fury over the episode has exploded into a national issue, posing the biggest challenge to the authoritarian government since a spate of anti-Chinese riots in 2014. Protesters demanding government action have marched in major cities and coastal communities over the past six weeks, escalating what had been a regional environmental dispute into a test of government accountability.
But two months after the fish started washing up on beaches here, the government has yet to announce the cause of the disaster or identify the toxin that killed marine life and poisoned coastal residents.
The government's failure to respond and its previous support for the Taiwan-owned steel plant at the heart of the crisis have fuelled widespread suspicion of corruption and the hidden influence of foreign interests at the expense of Vietnamese livelihoods, a potent mix that challenges the legitimacy of Communist Party rule.
"Quite simply, in Vietnam, human life is less important than the political life of the government and government institutions," said Nguyen Thi Bich Nga, an activist in Ho Chi Minh City. "In this way, we can explain all that is unusual in this country."
The government has said little about the marine die-off while cracking down on the protests, which have been called every Sunday since May 1, when thousands of people took to the streets of Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and other cities. More than 500 people have been arrested, and demonstrators have been beaten by police.
"The response by the government has been one of ineptitude," said Carlyle Thayer, a Vietnam analyst at the Australian Defence Force Academy. He said the fish kill was the most serious environmental issue to confront the government in several years and reflected poorly on the government of Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc, who took office in April.
Last month, the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights urged the government to avoid excessive use of force, citing "increasing levels of violence" against the protesters.
But the protests have continued.
On Sunday, more than 1,000 people turned out in a coastal district of Nghe An province, north of the steel plant, to demonstrate. Many wore T-shirts bearing a fish skeleton.
Some carried signs reading, "Fish need clean water, citizens need transparency".
"It seems the government tries to cover up for the culprit," Father Anthony Nam, a Catholic priest and protest leader in Nghe An, said. "We will protest until the government says what caused the spill."
In Nhan Trach, about 60km south of the steel factory, the dead and dying fish first appeared in early April, floating in the surf and washing up on the beach. Initially, it seemed like a windfall, and many people here ate and sold them. The fish kept coming, tonnes of them, day after day for more than a month, residents said.
"Some of the fish were dead; some were dying," said Ho Huu Sia, 67, who buys and dries fish for a living. "We ate the fish that were still alive. We ate the fish for two weeks."
His daughter, Ho Thi Dao, 32, said she became ill, experiencing vomiting, diarrhoea and dizziness. She went to the local clinic and received intravenous fluids. She said she met others there who also suffered poisoning.
Belatedly, the government announced that aquatic life had been poisoned along the coastline of four provinces. Authorities warned people not to eat fish and ordered a halt to fishing.
As compensation, officials distributed bags of rice and gave fishermen 50,000 dong (about 77 baht).
"We are just sitting with tears running down our cheeks looking out at the ocean," said Ms Pham, who has been fishing from Nhan Trach all her life. "What can we do with 50,000 dong?"
Coastal residents and journalists quickly accused the Formosa Ha Tinh Steel plant, which opened in December, of being the culprit.
According to news reports, the fish kill happened after the factory washed unspecified cleaning chemicals through its wastewater pipeline. A company representative seemed to confirm the suspicions in April when he said it would not be surprising if the factory's wastewater harmed marine life.
"You have to decide whether to catch fish and shrimp or to build a modern steel industry," he told reporters. "Even if you are the prime minister, you cannot choose both."
His comments incited a flurry of criticism on social media and spawned a popular hashtag, #ichoosefish.
The company later argued that it met Vietnam's environmental standards and said the spokesman had been fired. Company officials did not respond to requests for comment.
This scene goes on for nearly 200km of coastline in central Vietnam.
The government has been just as reticent. At first, it suggested a toxic algae bloom was responsible. In mid-May, Pham Cong Tac, deputy science and technology minister, told Vietnamese news outlets that the ministry had a "convincing scientific basis" to explain the fish deaths, but he did not disclose what it was.
Nguyen Hoang Anh, a university professor in Hanoi, said the government should have immediately revealed the toxin, especially to the poisoning victims and their doctors.
"It's not fair," she said. "It's not ethical. It's a crime."
She said the cover-up had the potential to make the fish kill Vietnam's Chernobyl, the 1986 nuclear disaster that contributed to the unravelling of the Soviet Union.
That is what the government most fears, analysts say, and it is why it acts quickly and at times brutally to suppress protests before they ignite a popular uprising.
But critics say the government has another motive. The government has supported the steel plant, giving the company a sweetheart deal, including tax incentives and a bargain price for the property, to build on the coast.