Two weeks ago, in a remote Myanmar town near the Thai border and a base for the Shan State Army (SSA), the ethnic Shan people came together to celebrate their fight for independence.
The SSA invited several press representatives to cover Shan State National Day, the 70th anniversary of the army's founding date, alongside the 60th birthday of SSA commander Lt Gen Yawd Serk. Political leaders and Shan people alike flocked from far-flung parts of Myanmar and Thailand to attend the festive day, a defiant statement to the world about the state's right to sovereignty.
The mountainous Shan State has a long history of armed conflict with the Myanmar government over claims to political autonomy in the ethnically diverse nation.
On Feb 7, 1947, Shan leaders made their first landmark political move when they gathered in the town of Panglong to declare themselves a self-determining state. In the time since, violent battles between the Myanmar government and the SSA have broken out periodically.
A series of ceasefires have been brokered to temporary effect. The most recent agreement was signed on Oct 15, 2015.
By the Feb 7 Loi Tai Leng celebration, the attendees -- including casual visitors, vendors and merchandisers -- seemed only excited to be in the once tension-ridden area.
Many Shan have fled to Thailand from the troubled state for fear of violence.
But for the annual National Day, most make the trip to their family's hometown and go back to their roots.
A CALL TO DISARM
Our Spectrum photographer arrived in Shan State on Feb 5. Driving up the hilly incline to Loi Tai Leng, he saw straightaway that vendors had turned the town into a thriving, tourist-friendly scene, with traditional Shan-style clothes and handicrafts being sold on the street.
A soldier stationed at a state checkpoint informed Spectrum that many guests had already arrived for the special day. The traffic headed for the mountain town was starting to get heavy. But the small dirt road could accommodate many vehicles, he said.
Four armed Shan State personnel guarded a series of checkpoints on the dusty dirt road to Loi Tai Leng. Every vehicle and passenger was inspected before passing through.
Our photographer was told the road marked the line between Shan State and Thailand.
A few years ago, the Thai government seized control of the road, banning the construction of new buildings in the area. Though they remain in control of the area, they let vendors set up stalls during the week for National Day -- after which they would be swiftly dismantled.
One day before the celebration, Shan State flags and balloons could be seen popping up all over the area. Several Shan arrived dressed up in traditional costumes, including their trademark multi-coloured cotton sarongs, streaming into town in their pickup trucks.
The Shan people seem to uphold a resilient spirit despite several decades of heavy conflict.
In the vast space set aside for the festivities, dozens of young people could be seen decorating the area in bright cloths and light bulbs. Music played out across the grounds, with people joining in by dancing. Shan rock bands got up to perform some catchy tunes. Some chanted out Shan-language poetry. Some prepared prizes for various games.
Some Karen and Mon people even came to show solidarity with the Shans.
In the evening, some people headed back to the city. Some had travelled as far as from Bangkok to attend.
"But for those who could not attend the Loi Tai Leng event, small events were organised in their respective communities to mark the National Day instead," said one festival attendee.
CAUSE TO CELEBRATE
On the morning of Feb 7, celebrations kicked off with a parade, as is customary for National Shan Day. The only difference about this year was that there no weapons in sight.
In past years, soldiers have patrolled the events with their guns on full display, a loaded reminder of the army's power. But this year the army wanted to change their approach.
"The parade this year symbolised the hope for future peace," said one Shan soldier.
"We didn't want to focus on showing off our weaponry."
Lt Gen Yawd Serk, the most powerful member of Shan State's political world, read a speech addressing the dream of national unity. He called out the Myanmar government for failing to abide by the principles of the 1946 Panglong Agreement, recognising the equality and self-determination of the Shan State.
Later Yawd Serk spoke with reporters in a building nearby an army training facility. Clad in his army uniform, he maintained an air of calm as he fielded reporters' questions.
He stated that the SSA hosts the annual National Day for three main reasons -- firstly, to draw attention to the historic date that the Pangdong Agreement was signed several decades ago.
Secondly, and more importantly, as Yawd Serk noted: "We want the new generation [of Shan] to learn about our state's history, and see that we are a separate nation from Myanmar."
Thirdly, he stated, he wants the next generation of Shan to understand that the state's current struggles stem specifically from the Myanmar government's betrayal of the Pangdong agreement.
He was asked to reflect on the future of the Shan State after some recent changes in Myanmar's political landscape.
The state is one of a handful of ethnic groups that recently made new ceasefire agreements with the central government.
"After the formal peace talks in 1988 [one of in a series of between the government and ethnic groups], neither side has done much to push the process forward," he said.
Asked about how the peace talks have changed since the National League for Democracy, the party of Aung San Suu Kyi, was voted to power in 2015, he answered: "There are several factors delaying peace talks now. The problems in Myanmar are not simply limited to those between Aung San Suu Kyi's government and ethnic groups.
"There are many problems in Myanmar. We understand the weight of this and would like her to take her time in decision making."
If anything, he only asks for the Shan State to be treated as a legitimate political body.
"We are a legal group," he insisted. "But after the recent 2015 ceasefire, one of the big obstacles we faced was negotiating the right constitutional amendments. We had to try to recognise each other's legitimacy for the first time in a long time -- we'd been fighting with the government for over 60 years. We had to believe in each other."
When asked if Ms Suu Kyi has a different negotiating style than that of former president General Thein Sein, he replied: "Yes, it is different. Thein Sein was a part of the military so his management style was fast and efficient. After Aung San Suu Kyi came to power, things became more slow."
On the new Myanmar constitution, which passed with a referendum in 2008, he noted: "I am not an expert in constitutions. However, if the government writes a constitution and ethnic groups or armed groups are left of conversation, this is no good. If we agree on ceasefire and reconciliation, the government has to follow up by opening channels for us to take part in the constitutional amendment process."
To create real peace in the violence-riddled Shan region, Yawd Serk advocates going back to the principles of the Pangdong Agreement, which he hopes to do at the upcoming Feb 28 ceasefire talks.
"To engage in real political negotiations today, we cannot avoid the Pangdong Agreement -- it's the only way to start reconciling … If there's no Pangdong, we would not be what we are today."
He adds: "The best political system in Myanmar would be a federal one that gives autonomy to each state."
Still, he agrees that peace is a bullet point listed high on everyone's agenda.
"Regardless of what group you're affiliated with -- the Myanmar army or ethnic groups -- all share a desire to work towards peace. But we need a new approach to making people understanding each other."
taking a stand: Hundreds of Shan State soldiers take part in a parade to celebrate the 70th Shan State National Day at Loi Tai Leng, a town and army base along the Myanmar-Thailand border. Wichan Charoenkiatpakul
commander in chief: Lt Gen Yawd Serk is the most influential political figure in Shan State. Wichan Charoenkiatpakul
scene of festivity: Loi Tai Leng, the site of a big Shan State National Day celebration this year. The road leading to town was seized by Thai authorities a few years ago and remains controlled by them to this day. Wichan Charoenkiatpakul
on guard: Soldiers stationed at checkpoints along the once conflict-ridden road to Loi Tai Leng.
line of duty: In a symbolic nod to the 2015 ceasefire agreement, soldiers do not carry guns this year.
traditional dress: A Shan girl wears the ethnic group's signature colourful costume.