There are more than 7.5 million registered vehicles on the roads of Bangkok, almost one for every resident of a city of nine million people.
ON THE STREET WHERE YOU LIVE: Thanks in part to the government’s 100,000 baht tax incentive scheme for first-time car buyers, the number of vehicles registered in Bangkok last year rose to more than 7.5 million. (Photos by Thanarak Khoonton)
And with the government's 100,000 baht tax rebate offer for first-time car buyers the number is only going to increase.
"The traffic is getting worse and it doesn't seem like anyone can do anything about it," taxi driver Boonthom Saengsantia told Spectrum. "I've been driving a taxi in the city for almost 20 years and it's never been worse," he said, after spending 30 minutes waiting at a red light on Sathon Road.
Land Transportation Department figures show the total number of registered vehicles in Bangkok at the end of 2012 was almost 10% higher than it had been at the end of the previous year. In contrast, the growth rate between 2010 and 2011 was just over 6%.
Since its launch in 2011, more than 1.2 million nationwide have taken part in the government's tax refund scheme for people buying their first car, according to Somchai Poolsavasdi, director-general of the Excise Department.
Of those 245,000 were from Bangkok. The three-year subsidy scheme will cost 91 billion baht in total when it finishes in 2015.
Amorn Kitchawengkul, deputy governor of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), agrees that the subsidies for new car buyers, which have been criticised as part of the ruling coalition's populist policies, have contributed to the capital's growing congestion.
IN A JAM: Bangkok authorities have so far failed to find a viable solution to the congestion problem.
''We can't deny that it's part of the problem. The scheme made it easier for people to buy a car,'' Mr Amorn said. ''In the 2012 fiscal year, 470,000 new cars and 456,000 motorcycles were registered in Bangkok.''
As of the end of last year, there were 3.18 million private cars and 2.85 million motorcycles in Bangkok, Mr Amorn said. ''But that doesn't include all the public vehicles, such as taxis, buses and trucks,'' he said.
''The actual number of all types of vehicles registered in Bangkok is more than 7.5 million.''
Long-suffering taxi and truck drivers such as Mr Boonthom experience the consequences of the scheme every day.
''I am not for or against anyone, but I feel that the scheme just made the traffic situation even worse,'' said Mr Boonthom who spends at least 12 hours a day in his taxi. ''I don't know how many more cars there are now in Bangkok, but I do know that since the end of last year, I've spent more time in traffic than ever before.''
STREETS BEHIND
Mr Amorn says the simple fact is that Bangkok is desperately short of roads. Based on the number of vehicles operating in the city, the current 8,000km network, spanning 50 districts, is less than a quarter of what's needed.
LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: A youngster takes a nap while waiting for the traffic lights to change.
The BMA, which has responsibility for building and maintenance of all roads within the city's metropolis, receives an annual development budget of 14 billion baht from the national government. But Mr Amorn says most of this goes towards safety and security _ that is, traffic lights, education programmes and CCTV cameras _ which is the BMA's ''first priority''.
He says there is little funding left over to acquire land needed for new roads.
''That means we have very little left to fund the expropriation of the land we need to build roads,'' Mr Amorn says.
Although the BMA is responsible for road expansion projects in Bangkok, the lack of space available makes finding an effective solution extremely difficult, Mr Amorn said.
''Opportunities for expansion of the road network are very limited,'' he said.
''We have 19 projects in the pipeline, but that won't be enough. We just don't have the room to accommodate all the cars that exist in Bangkok.''
Of the 19 road development projects the BMA has under way, 12 are scheduled to be completed later this year, with the rest set to be finished in 2014. Two of the schemes will create new road links: between Phatthanakan Road and King Rama IX Park (around the area of Sukhumvit 77-103), and between Charan Sanitwong (near Klong Lad Wat Mai) and Kanchanaphisek roads.
SKY FAIL: The skytrain has helped reduce congestion in Bangkok, but far more needs to be done.
Other projects include improvements to Phutthamonthon Sai 3 Road (from Phetkasem Road to the southern railway), an underpass on Taksin Road to Ratchadaphisek Road, and an overpass on Phatthanakan Road to On Nut (Sukhumvit 77).
The combined cost of these projects will be more than 10 billion baht.
The lack of tarmac helps also explain the slow average speeds experienced by drivers in the city.
In central areas such as Wireless Road heading towards Sathon Road, the average speed is just 8.95km/h, while on the Saladaeng intersection travelling towards the Pratunam intersection it is 10.12km/h, he said.
''The slowest ever speed was recorded on a day during the rainy season when cars were moving just 8km in three hours,'' he said.
That equates to a slower than walking pace of 2.67km/h.
The congestion is worst during the two daily rush hours, from 6am to 9am, and from 4pm to 7pm, but the problem is extended by people thinking they are beating the traffic, Mr Amorn said.
''However, as more and more people try to avoid the evening rush by leaving for home later, the roads remain busy up until about 10pm,'' he said.
But Chula Sukamanop, director-general of the Office of Transport and Traffic Policy and Planning (OTP) at the Transport Ministry, says the problem has more to do with poor traffic strategies than a lack of infrastructure. ''It's true that there are seven million cars registered in Bangkok, but they're not all used at the same time,'' he said. ''The roads we have can easily handle the traffic flow.''
THE ROAD AHEAD
Mr Chula says the best way to solve the problem is to think of more intelligent ways to move people around the city given that there will never be enough infrastructure to meet the growing number of vehicles.
''We'll never be able to build enough roads to match the volume of traffic in Bangkok. What we have to do is limit the use of private vehicles. That's the long-term solution,'' he said.
ROAD TO HELL: On the most-congested routes, like Rama IV Road, the average speed is less than 9 km/h.
One way to get more people to use public transport is to encourage them to leave their cars at home by reducing fares, Mr Chula said.
One idea being considered is to charge Bangkok commuters a flat fee of 20 baht per trip for all journeys made on the rail network, including both the skytrain and subway, he said. Regardless of how far people travelled, the price per journey would be unchanged.
Mr Chula acknowledges the proposal would need government subsidies to work. He believes funds should be raised by charging road users higher taxes for petrol and other fuels such as LPG.
''For the 20 baht plan to work, the government would have to subsidise it,'' he said. ''But the problem is that the service would benefit only people in Bangkok, and not other parts of the country, and that's not fair.''
Before this can be effective, Mr Chula believes Bangkok has to improve its public transport network before dealing with the prime concern of traffic congestion.
''Once the public transport system is completed, we will introduce measures to deter people from using their own cars. These might include an increase in fuel prices,'' he said.
Other options under consideration to control traffic flow are limiting people's driving days and a congestion tax similar to London.
''Allowing people to drive into Bangkok based on the numbers or letters on their licence plates is a great idea and would reduce traffic. But it would be very difficult to enforce,'' Mr Chula said.
He said the congestion charge system would be easier to apply, but needs funding and resources. ''We came up with this concept before other countries did, but we don't have the budget, human resources or technology to facilitate it,'' he said.
Mr Amorn said programmes such as ''Park and Ride'', where commuters leave their vehicles at a carpark near a train or subway station and then take public transport, have already been tried with limited success.
''At the moment, Park and Ride is just a gimmick, but if it's operated in conjunction with a comprehensive public transport network, it could be a real solution,'' he said.
Mr Amorn said although major extensions to the subway system had been discussed, there was no concrete action plan in place.
HOT AND BOTHERED: A driver is left stranded on a busy highway after his car gives up the ghost.
Mr Chula said that the OTP was planning to extend the public rail network in the city.
''We expect all of the 10 lines that comprise the rail transit system in Bangkok and its vicinities to be completed by 2019,'' he said.
The new additions will increase the network to 300km from 50km, he said.
'ROT TIT, MAAK MAAK
'But to average commuters the plans to improve Bangkok's traffic problem sound like they are stuck on the drawing board.
Mr Amorn offered some stop-gap measures which would appeal to a limited number of people.
He said the public can look forward to an improved canal boat service, which is set to be expanded to a further 28 waterways across the city.
Mr Amorn is also keen for people to help solve the problem themselves _ by leaving their cars at home and getting on their bikes.
''We want to encourage more people to commute by bicycle,'' he said. ''We already have 30 cycle routes in the city and plan to add 30 more, all of which will be interconnected.''
Not only will this be better for commuters, but it will also be good for the environment, he said.
Taxi driver Mr Boonthom isn't optimistic. ''I thought the situation would get better when the skytrain opened, but I was so wrong,'' he said.
There's no doubt that the arrival of the skytrain system more than 13 years ago was good news for the city. But the corresponding growth in car ownership over the period has meant that the situation at ground level is just as bad as ever.
''Even with all the new public transport networks, there still seems to be more and more cars on the roads,'' Mr Boonthom said.
But Bangkok commuters like Kae, who was among the 1.2 million people who took advantage of the first-car tax refund scheme, can't help but see positives in the situation. Having a car has changed her life.
''I live in Lam Luk Ka, Pathum Thani but have to commute to the Silom area every day. Before I had a car, I used public transport and it took for ever. I had to get up at 5am just to get to work by 8am. I was exhausted even before my day had begun.''
Though having a car has not reduced her daily commute time, having her own vehicle has been a blessing, the 35 year old said.
''Life is much easier, '' she said. ''I still have to get up early, but I'm less less tired. All I have to do is take a shower and get dressed, and I'm on my way. I put on my makeup and have breakfast as I'm driving,'' she said.
''The only bad thing is that I can't have a nap any more.''
BORED ON A BUS: Patience is a necessity for commuters forced to rely on Bangkok’s public buses.
TICKET TO RIDE: Officials have considered introducing a congestion fee in a bid to cut traffic.