A new hotel sparks fears all that glitters will be sold
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A new hotel sparks fears all that glitters will be sold

It was meant to be the jewel in his crown, but gem tycoon Chuchai Chairitthilert's plans for Amphawa could forever alter a sleepy community

An asset with many facets: A boat operator looks across at Chuchai Buri Sri Amphawa, gem tycoon Chuchai Chairitthilert’s controversial development in Samut Songkhram, from his sister’s house.
An asset with many facets: A boat operator looks across at Chuchai Buri Sri Amphawa, gem tycoon Chuchai Chairitthilert’s controversial development in Samut Songkhram, from his sister’s house.

The country's most flamboyant gem dealer wasn't about to take any half measures when he celebrated his 54th birthday this month.

Famed for putting the glitter in hi-so glitterati, Chuchai Chairitthilert had gathered hundreds of celebrities, dignitaries, friends and family at his billion-baht entertainment complex in Samut Songkhram.

Located on seven rai of land, it is immodestly named Chuchai Buri Sri Amphawa -- the City of Chuchai in the Glory of Amphawa -- in a small nod to the popular tourist destination.

The complex boasts an 18-room neoclassical-style luxury hotel, a shopping terrace, restaurant, entertainment hall and Hindu shrine.

But the night of May 11 was all about honouring Mr Chuchai. The room sparkled under the warm light of a massive chandelier; the walls, arches and columns decorated with gold paint.

Bouquets were placed on tables set with fine white linen and sparkling silver dinnerware sets. Half a dozen handsome, muscular young men dressed immaculately in formal attire were on standby to entertain the guests.

The big moment approached and the guests were told to gather at the front of the room. A five-layer birthday cake studded with gems and diamonds awaited the birthday boy along with dozens of paparazzi invited for the event.

Mr Chuchai blew out the candles and, to raucous approval, implored his A-list guests to eat, drink and enjoy themselves. The immaculate young men took to the dance floor, sweeping up maidens and matrons in their muscular arms. "He's so talented," one of the guests whispered to Spectrum in awe of the gem dealer. "Everything he does, he does brilliantly."

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

Mr Chuchai rose from being a poor boy with a grade-seven education to Thailand's top jewellery designer and dealer.

You were young, you shone like the sun: Above, a traditional dance show in a Chuchai Buri ballroom. Right, Mr Chuchai blows out the candles on a birthday cake decorated with diamonds and gems.

Being one of 12 children, earning a living was always a problem for his family. He recalls that after school, he helped his elder sister clean and polish rings from a relative's modest jewellery shop to earn some cash.

The turning point in his life came when he was eight and his father died. The young Chuchai had to quit school to work with his sister in a gift shop in Pratunam, a commercial area of Bangkok, to help support his family and his siblings' education.

With full-time work, he got a chance to observe a nearby jewellery shop; this encouraged him to start his own jewellery retailing business in 1985.

He had a small shop and occasionally carried jewellery to sell at customers' houses. He was said to have a good sense in matching jewellery to his customers' personalities.

His small business grew larger until he decided to design products himself. He launched his own brand, Gempeace by Chuchai, in 1999 aimed at the high-end market.

Eight years later, Mr Chuchai launched two other brands, Chuchai Gempeace and C2 by Chuchai, with the concept of providing more affordable jewellery.

Now living in a luxury 200-million-baht residence in Bangkok, Mr Chuchai draws a large crowd whenever he launches a new collection, and his necklaces and diamond crowns have appeared regularly in films and beauty pageants.

LOSING HIS LUSTRE

But in the past five years Mr Chuchai has faced criticism for his investment in Amphawa, a small town known for its rural setting with canals, Thai-style timber houses, traditional floating market and a large population of fireflies.

Just over an hour from Bangkok by car, the district is becoming overwhelmed by urban tourists seeking a rural weekend break.

Mr Chuchai was first attracted to Amphawa during a visit in 2010.

"It's like the scene from the Kwan-Riam era," he told Spectrum, referring to the popular romance-drama film Plae Kao (Old Wound), a tragic love tale of two peasants in rural Thailand.

"Amphawa has real natural life that I fell in love with. It contains a charm that I no longer need to search for in far-off destinations."

Mr Chuchai bought two plots of canal-side land in Amphawa, totalling seven rai. He initially planned to build a private residence, but he soon set his sights on creating his own kingdom of Chuchai Buri.

It was Mr Chuchai's first entry into the property and tourism industry. He didn't expect it would lead to years of opprobrium.

BE MY GUEST

In early March, Chuchai Buri was unofficially opened next to Amphawa canal. The five-storey building stands tall among the single-storey traditional houses made of timber.

Its appearance is a mix of Thai traditional and neoclassical, a kind of architecture that was popular in high society during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The roof is covered with orange tiles which imitate the appearance of baked clay and its facade is decorated with emulations of traditional wooden louvres.

Bright purple light is cast across the building's surfaces at night, creating a jarring spectacle amid the surrounding farmland and dimly lit homes. Western music is played on a terrace outside the building.

The hotel lobby site within an octagonal hall with antique Roman statues, simplified Corinthian columns and Western-style showcases, carved chairs and tables.

Eighteen hotel rooms -- which range from 6,000 to 20,000 baht per night -- as well as shops and a restaurant are now open.

Tourists are also invited to visit Chuchai Buri's shrine, which presents Hindu gods reflecting Mr Chuchai's religious beliefs in both Buddhism and Hinduism.

The famous floating market is just 500 metres from his property.

From the perspective of conservationists, Chuchai Buri is completely alien to Amphawa.

In late 2012, while it was still under construction, local conservationists criticised the project for what they said was its inappropriate architectural style.

There is ongoing controversy over a row of 11 traditional houses directly next to the hotel, which have been boarded off and are in the process of being demolished.

Locals believe Mr Chuchai is the owner of the land and has ordered the demolitions, though he denies the claim.

Nonetheless, Mr Chuchai has been labelled by elements of the community as a greedy capitalist who had moved in from Bangkok to damage the local community.

For his part, Mr Chuchai said the project has fully complied with government regulations and that it will aid in the preservation of Amphawa's history.

DESTINATION FOR SUCCESS

As protests emerged, construction of Chuchai Buri was suspended for a year. Mr Chuchai was the subject of a parliamentary inquiry after protesters filed a complaint to senators and other government officials.

Some neighbouring residents complained about loud noise from the construction site, with the closest house about 10 metres from the nearest foundation pile.

The criticism took a toll on Mr Chuchai's reputation and his jewellery business. But he was eventually cleared of any wrongdoing and resumed work on his hotel, which was completed earlier this year.

Although the conflict has now mostly died down, some locals still complain about the noise from visitors and vehicles coming and going from the hotel.

Residents questioned by Spectrum offered mixed responses: some were supportive of the project, others were not. Many said had already become used to the view of Chuchai Buri towering over their humble wooden houses.

The shrine has become a tourist hit, but residents see it as detracting from local temples.

The greatest fear, however, is that if Chuchai Buri is successful, other wealthy investors will move in and a large-scale hotel boom will follow.

"I think people like it [the architectural style] a lot. It shows Thainess and blends with local appearance. Many people come to me and say, 'Thanks for bringing Amphawa's prosperity,' " Mr Chuchai said. "I want to make a new destination here."

CULTURE FOR SALE

Amphawa has for years been named in travel guides, but recently fears have escalated that tourism was eroding the traditional lifestyle that had put it on the map to begin with. Its highest point when it was received an honourable mention at the Unesco Asia-Pacific Awards in 2008. Amphawa was praised for its well-preserved traditional architecture.

But critics say that local lifestyle, so closely entwined with rural culture, is changing.

Most of the shops and the floating market now cater to Bangkokians rather than stocking daily items for locals. The once ubiquitous fireflies are becoming harder to find.

In this situation, some conservationists believe greater effort is needed to preserve Amphawa.

Mr Chuchai thinks the same. But he looks at conservation from a different angle.

"Conservation without money will lead to the collapse of tradition," he said.

"Like some old wooden houses. People say it must be preserved in its original look but leave it to rot. Without money, how can it be maintained and renovated? Maintenance of ancient buildings usually costs a lot of money."

He is confident that Chuchai Buri will help generate money for the Amphawa community. A better economy will support people and help fund the conservation movement, he said.

But to become a thriving destination, Amphawa needs something outstanding. It can't just offer tourists the same old things, he said.

This is the main reason Mr Chuchai chose to emulate 19th century architecture for his hotel, believing it presents a high-class landmark that Amphawa was lacking.

He said the shrine aims to expand the market for religious tourism to people who worship Hindu gods. Many of them also respect Buddhists monks at the same time.

He runs Chuchai Buri seven days a week, despite tourists generally only arriving for the weekend market.

As part of his property's promotion campaign, 10 diamond rings valued at 100,000 baht each have been given to visitors who check-in at his property on social media.

He also wants to create a canal night market in the future so Amphawa can operate commercially for longer hours. About 90% of his staff are locals.

"If we don't think outside the box, we wouldn't be able to conserve and develop this place," he said. "Amphawa is like a beautiful woman, yet to be decorated by ornaments and exposed to the world."

LEAVING A LEGACY

The morning after his birthday party, Mr Chuchai, adorned in diamond ornaments, had breakfast at his restaurant overlooking Amphawa canal as usual.

He pondered his 54 years of life. He was tired, but had accumulated a level of wealth and success that most people can only dream of.

Selling diamonds is his main job and makes quick money, he thought; operating a hotel is far more complicated and risky.

If he could turn back time, he wouldn't have opened Chuchai Buri. His inexperience in the property business had prevented him from foreseeing the current conflicts.

But it is too late; the hotel is built, and he must now forge ahead with new ways to promote his project.

He thought Chuchai Buri would leave a positive legacy. And it just might help conserve Amphawa as he plans.

Or it could open the floodgates to change.

Rough diamond: An old woman sits at the front of her house in the centre of Amphawa's famous floating market. The district has long been a popular tourist desintation because of its rural nature.

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