An eerie quiet on the BTS skytrain, the billboards are black, an image of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej wiping away a tear, or bending down to touch a frail elderly woman replaces the colourful, noisy ads. Words of condolences are printed in Thai, words which I cannot read, but understand all too well.
It's a sea of black, specked by white and grey, a dress code spontaneously adopted by all Thais the moment their beloved King's passing was announced by the palace at 3.52 pm on Thursday, Oct 13. The hint of a sad smile crosses people's faces when eyes meet, thus acknowledging their shared grief. At Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace where the King's body is lying in state, free food and transportation is given to mourners, they come from far and wide to pay their last respects to the only king they have ever known.
There's a feeling of mutual respect whether near the palace grounds, on the streets, in the supermarket, at the hospital or on the train. Free entry into museums and national parks, and dyeing shirts black for the needy demonstrates the genuine outpouring of love and giving, continuing the legacy of a king who tirelessly worked to better the lives of his people. Public buildings are lined by black and white ribbons, and entrances are graced with portraits of the King, golden urns of white bouquets and the symbolic black and white ribbons.
Shop windows, street vendors and stalls have redressed their mannequins in black. Somber looking Thais cannot get enough of the black mourning attire and stores are struggling to meet demand. Even tourists have sensed the sincerity of the people's grief and have taken the cue to abide by mourning colours.
Commiserating with Thais are thousands of long-term expats living in Thailand, those who have come to learn about and love so much of what Thailand has to offer. They are aware of the intricate protocol enacted upon the passing of a member of the royal family, such as that held for Her Royal Highness Princess Galyani Vadhana, the King's older sister in 2008.
No one, however, could foresee the instantaneous outpouring of grief that besieged the nation with the passing of the much loved and revered King.
A child prostrates at Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace, as he pays respect to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed away on Oct 13. (Photo by Kitja Apichonrojarek)
Although the King had been ailing for quite some time, the news of his death came to us with great sadness. We too had been following the news updates on his health, watched the vigils outside the hospital and then the royal procession of the coffin to the Grand Palace, and we too held our breath in awe at the outpouring of grief. As one person wrote, and it's a feeling I can personally identify with, it feels as though my best friend has lost their father, for me that "best friend" are all my close Thai friends and acquaintances, but also the nation as a whole. We too rummaged through our wardrobes preparing for the month of black garb ahead.
For me as a long-term expat in Thailand, a place I have called home for the past 10 years, I am grateful for the opportunity I had as a volunteer at the National Museum, which gave me and so many of my fellow volunteers a close up opportunity to learn about the art, culture and history of this wonderful country. In the course of my work as a writer, I am fortunate to have researched aspects of the King's life outlining his contribution to this country. He was a true builder and father of the nation and nothing is truer than saying Thailand is the country it is today thanks to the remarkable 70-year reign of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
Spectators (and cynics) from around the world may not understand, and how could they? No, the Thai people are not being coerced, nor have they been brainwashed into worshipping their monarch. Simply put, such a king has not existed elsewhere. The outpouring of love comes from their hearts and is given to the father of a nation who had given his own heart to better the lives of his 70 million plus children. May he rest in peace.
Ines Ehrlich is a Bangkok-based freelance news and feature writer.