Embattled residents fight to hold the fort

Embattled residents fight to hold the fort

A young boy leans on the Mahakan Fort in Phra Nakhon district of Bangkok. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration has renewed an eviction plan to boot the community from this old-town area. (Photo by Pawat Laopaisarntaksin
A young boy leans on the Mahakan Fort in Phra Nakhon district of Bangkok. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration has renewed an eviction plan to boot the community from this old-town area. (Photo by Pawat Laopaisarntaksin

In the eyes of the state, the residents of Mahakan Fort, a group of people facing a state eviction order, have been stubborn, continuously violating rules.

For many, the nearly 66 families, in some 56 homes, are fighters. They are fighting to save their homes -- a cluster of wooden houses, with some structures dating back to the early Rattanakosin era -- from state bulldozers.

The Mahakan eviction saga dates back more than two decades.

Mahakan residents are fighting an eviction order imposed by Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1992 who pushed for the eviction as the city wanted to turn the community into a public park.

The threat of eviction has taken several forms over the years.

The threat was intensified during the tenure of governor Samak Sundaravej as the city prepared to push forward with its plans for the location. Residents lost all the court cases they brought before the Administrative Court.

Their defeat was a demonstration that Thai law does not recognise community rights.

However, Samak's successors, including current governor MR Sukhumbhand Paribatra, did not push seriously for the eviction of Mahakan's residents.

This changed last week when senior city officials said they were dusting off the eviction plan as part of efforts to increase green spaces and boost tourism and recreation activities. These renewed eviction efforts are a bitter surprise to the residents who had previously been promised by MR Sukhumbhand that they would be allowed to stay in the community through the end of his term next year, leaving the matter to be decided by the next governor.

Apart from facing a slew of legal problems, the community has been stigmatised by city residents for what some perceive to be unjust resistance to increasing green spaces and parks.

But it would be a half-truth to say that Mahakan residents oppose the park.

They insist the area, stretching some five rai, is already a green space dotted with with large, shady trees. For the residents and housing rights activists, Mahakan is already an ideal green space where people and trees coexist -- though not a typical park as defined by City Hall.

"If you want to prove how green this area is, you go up to the top of the Golden Mount and look down at the community. Our houses are covered by large shady trees, you will not see even one roof."

This notion of "park" as pushed by the city has been questioned. In the case of the fort, the structure that would define the park is an enclosed, isolated area, a perfect site for crime. Many conservationists have suggested letting the residents stay in their homes as designated overseers of the proposed park, looking after the area and helping prevent crime.

This is a role the community would love to fill. Residents propose that any money earned as park keepers would be used to repay compensation funds some of them received from the city at the start of the eviction process some 20 years ago.

If this proposal were to materialise, Mahakan residents would be able to shake off the stigma of having taken the money but refused to leave. An accusation the community calls unjust, saying they had no choice and they were forced to accept the money.

"It was a take it or leave it deal. They threatened that we were to be booted out anyway and it was better to get some small compensation," said one community member.

But they found the relocation site, on the outskirts of Bangkok, too far from the city and their jobs and transportation costs too high. Some residents decided to return to the fort and stopped accepting the money. The remaining funds were put in a bank and those who received funds asked for the chance to return it to the state. Their calls went unanswered. The eviction nightmare dragged on.

Despite its illegal status, Mahakan Fort is treasured by conservationists.

The location almost became a living museum in 2006 when a research study commissioned by the city under governor Apirak Kosayodhin recognised the community's potential.

The study indicated that some vintage houses were worth preserving. More importantly, the fort's location was the birthplace of likay performances in Bangkok about a century ago.

Unfortunately, Mr Apirak reversed his policy, dumping the study he commissioned.

Regarding their ongoing legal fight, it's undeniable that residents are breaching state rules.

But the most important rule that fort residents broke was one commonly associated with people who lack housing security: people without housing guarantees tend to allow their homes to get run down. Who would invest in maintenance when they think they will be evicted one day? Mahakan residents are a clear exception to this rule.

Over the years, residents have kept their homes in a good state. In fact, the area has undergone little change. It still looks tidy and tranquil.

At one time a land-sharing scheme was proposed by housing activists as a way to avoid eviction.

It could be said that it's state policy that is in fact destroying the structure. A once majestic house was demolished after its owner became disheartened by eviction threats. Now, the area is vacant. No new house has replaced it.

"It's a pity, but we have to respect their decision," said community leader Thawatchai Voramahakun. 

Mahakan is a self-regulating community. No alcohol sales or drinking are allowed in the community -- a strict rule observed by every resident for years, if not decades.

Mr Thawatchai also disputes accusations by city officials that residents are not original Mahakan families. 

"The city said most of us are not original owners. That is partially true, but the newest members have lived in the community for decades," said Mr Thawatchai.

We should look at the residents' commitment to the community rather than counting the years they have lived in Mahakan.

One of these commitments is to turn the community into a learning site. Every month, the community co-hosts a forum, along with the Lek-Prapai Viriyapan Foundation, on old-town conservation.

The forum takes place under the shade of large trees in the heart of the community.

Residents have networked and formed alliances with other communities in the area and several academic groups. An educational institute now organises a souvenir-making course to attract tourists that enables the community to make a living. 

"Quite a few foreign tourists visit us," said Mr Thawatchai.


Ploenpote Atthakor is editorial pages editor, Bangkok Post.

Ploenpote Atthakor

Former editorial page Editor

Ploenpote Atthakor is former editorial pages editor, Bangkok Post.

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