Toward the end of last year, a crowd of men at a small public field in Pattani stood dumbstruck as they witnessed an unusual spectacle. Their eyes were fixed on the 10 players who had turned out for a football training session -- dressed in long sleeves and hijabs.
"For the first few weeks, many of the women were a bit intimidated by the men who also exercised in the park," said Daranee Thongsiri, a rights activist and academic who organised the practice session.
"They were afraid to move much since the men were staring at them. But after that they became more free and were able to run around without fear of being judged. I think it went well."
The training sessions ran weekly for about three months, designed not only to challenge gender inequality in the far South but also promote women's health, a significant challenge in a region where women are generally encouraged to remain indoors.
"We don't usually see Muslim women coming out to public parks to exercise," Ms Daranee said.
"Most of the people who go there are Muslim men, who are allowed to do anything they want."
A NEW CHAPTER
The idea for a football team was conceived in a local book shop, which has been transformed into a centre -- or "classroom", as Ms Daranee prefers to call it -- for discussions on controversial topics such as gender and sexuality.
Ms Daranee left her native Bangkok in 2011 in search of green space and a quieter life. She decided to combine her passions for nature, peace and knowledge by opening a small book shop named Buku, the Melayu word for "book", in Pattani.
But Ms Daranee's passion for social issues quickly overcame her desire for peace and quiet, and less than two years later she began running talks about taboo issues: the first topic was "Basic knowledge on sexuality and sexual diversity".
"I know it is one of the most sensitive issues in the deep South and no one is bold enough to tackle it," Ms Daranee said.
"Since we are living in the area, I figure we'd better do something to get them to understand about their rights, freedom and sexuality."
Her efforts were lent more credibility with the backing of Anticha Sangchai, a professor of philosophy at Prince of Songkla University's Pattani campus, who is also a co-founder of Buku.
Ms Anticha said men in the Muslim South are generally seen as spiritual as well as community leaders.
Women on the other hand are valued and respected as leaders of the house.
However, academic work is held in high esteem, regardless of gender, and so her involvement with Buku meant the book shop was given more freedom to experiment.
"I use my strong point as a university professor to back up Buku's work. Any activities that come out from us will be looked at as academic-related activities, which happens to be exactly what we are doing," Ms Anticha explained. But after that first group discussion, Buku became well known among locals as a place where sex was talked about openly. The reaction from locals was mixed.
Ms Daranee told Spectrum that after Buku began working openly on gender and LGBT issues, many locals who had formerly offered their help stopped coming by. She said many had told her they did not want to get involved in such a contentious issue.
But when Buku was asked by the Health Promotion Foundation to run an activity promoting health, Ms Daranee saw an opportunity to kill two birds with one stone: women's football.
LOFTY GOALS
Sunna, 26, had never played football before last year, although she had always found the idea interesting, believing it would be a good way to exercise.
Hit the ground running: A Muslim woman takes part in training in Pattani, where they hope to start a regular female team. photo: courtesy of Anticha Sangchai
But for a devout Muslim woman, sport has never been an easy pursuit.
The last time Sunna really got involved with sport was in high school, where she learned Krabi-Krabong, a weapon-based martial art, as part a required subject.
"I signed up for [the football training] because I wanted to exercise. It is something I haven't had a chance to do for so long," Sunna said.
"I signed up and went to a three-day camp with other participants where we got to break the ice and learn about each other."
But transitioning from a private camp to training in full public view proved daunting.
"When we actually came back from the camp and played in the public park, it felt so much different. There were men staring at us, and that made me feel a bit intimidated," she said.
"But after a while, it just felt good and I felt free. I got to move my body freely and I got to exercise.
"I'm not sure if the men stopped paying attention to us or if we just stopped caring."
Although the training sessions are now finished, Sunna said she plans to join future football events organised by Buku, so long as they fit around her full-time job.
TEAM EFFORT
On the back of the successful football sessions last year, Ms Daranee and Ms Anticha began to develop bigger ambitions. The pair travelled to Cambodia for talks with their working network and returned with the idea to form an all-female competitive football team representing the southern province.
Later this year, Buku hopes to turn that idea into a reality.
Ms Daranee said Pattani used to have a women's football team competing in national competitions, but the programme was discontinued due to budget restrictions and internal conflict.
"We plan to make it big. We want to train our local girls to be professional football players," Mr Anticha said.
"We will have someone from our network in Cambodia come to train our local girls. Once they are good enough, I will send them to compete with other teams in Cambodia, but that is just a future plan."
Tasnem Thanbumrong, a 21-year-old local Muslim girl, was part of the Pattani team when she was 15. She competed in regional competitions and played with the team for almost a year before it disbanded.
"I'm excited to get to see another female football team forming in our area. Even though I may not be able to be a big part of the team since I am now working full-time, I will definitely be part of the project as a coaching assistant and attend the matches," she said.
Ms Daranee told Spectrum that the team would be looking for 15-20 recruits from the local community, and said she has already received expressions of interest from women in neighbouring Yala province.
Part of the plan will also be to rent a proper football field for the team to train on, away from the stares of men.
"This may seem like quite a heavy sport for the women, but it can clearly get women moving their bodies freely which is what we are trying to encourage," Ms Daranee said.
But it's not only physical activity that Buku is trying to promote.
CAN'T STOP THE MUSIC
Darika, 19, grew up in a strict Muslim household and closely follows the teachings of the Koran. But as part of the younger generation, she is also increasingly exposed to influences from outside her community.
As a result, her Islamic practice is more relaxed than her parents' generation. When she went to high school, Darika discovered a passion which is considered a breach of her religion: playing guitar.
It is generally considered a sinful act in Islam to play any musical instrument other than a drum. Singing also violates religious beliefs, unless it is to praise Allah.
Darika has kept her passion hidden from others for the past five years. But as soon as she returns to her private dormitory, she will pull out the guitar she has locked away in the closet and start practising.
Even in her private space, Darika has to keep the volume down for fear people next door will learn her secret.
"I can't be seen with my guitar. I will be condemned by the Muslim community. My parents don't even approve of this. So I have no choice but keep this a secret," Darika explained.
"I wish I could perform on the stage in a band in front of a big crowd, but that is nothing more than a dream."
Darika's classmate, Sa, also shares a love of music, and is a talented Thai country music singer. Whenever she feels like singing, she will ask Darika to travel with her to Hat Yai, where the pair will visit karaoke booths in shopping malls so they can sing in private.
"I want to enter singing competitions but I know it is impossible. My parents will kill me if they find out about this," Sa said. "Sometimes I sing for Darika when she plays her guitar. Behind a closed door is the only place I actually feel safe to sing."
Ms Anticha told Spectrum there is a local Muslim band that sings and performs concerts in the deep South. But they have to tell the public that they are singing to praise God.
The band is also comprised solely of men.
Ms Daranee said Buku was working with local Muslim women to encourage interest in music and the arts, but preferred not to discuss specifics for fear it would provoke a backlash from the community if made public.
BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE
Othman Ratniyom, a professor at Prince of Songkla University's College of Islamic Studies in Pattani, has spent years studying Islamic culture, and says the lifestyles of young Thai Muslims are changing, but are still bound by conservative values.
He told Spectrum that Islam is created equally for both men and women, and even though it may sound strict to people from other cultures or religious backgrounds, it's "for their own good" in the future.
"It's not common to see a man and woman who are not married walking together hand-in-hand, since it against our beliefs. If we interpret the law directly, single Muslim men and women are not even supposed to mix at the same public venue," Mr Othman explained.
"This is the reason why it's not common to see Muslim women go out to exercise in public parks. Men and women are supposed to have their own areas and they shouldn't mix together in public.
"While our society is not that strict, still many women feel like they prefer their own area rather than mixing in with men."
But Mr Othman said music is strictly prohibited. A good Muslim is not supposed to play musical instruments or sing because such actions are considered sinful.
"Music is the beginning of all bad things that come afterwards," he said.
"Many rock stars, famous singers and music groups are drug addicts. Music may not cause it directly, but it brings temptations like lust, fame and fortune which can later on cause drug abuse problems.
"All we are trying to do is stop the fire before it starts, instead of solving the problem later when it is more difficult."
But Ms Anticha argues that practising art forms such as music, or competing in healthy activities like football, can be therapeutic and encourage creativity.
"We are trying to support local Muslims to be able to express themselves freely in sport, art and music," Ms Anticha said.
"I understand it is against Islamic beliefs and I don't want them to abandon what they believe, but I want them to understand they can integrate their beliefs with any kind of sport or art form they are passionate about."
Lead-in: photos: courtesy of Anticha Sangchai
Tthe facts of life: Buku co-founder Daranee Thongsiri has turned her shop into a place for frank discussions about gender and sexuality, and is behind the push for a women's football team. photo: xxxxx xxxxx
Academic Anticha Sangchai.
Up for discussion: A chart at Buku outlines the different expectations men and women have traditionally faced from society in the South.
Fighting fit: Muslim and Buddhist women in Pattani take part in a government activity promoting women's health, which led to the football training sessions.