Last year, it was all about Yves Saint Laurent _ the man and the 1970s look he pioneered, not the brand which shall soon be known (to the dismay of many) as Saint Laurent Paris. This year fashion has been looking back further, to the 1950s, and the name Cristobal Balenciaga loomed large over the summer runway, and the influence of the late Spanish couturier has been cast even into the pre-fall season.
Back in the summer, the Balenciaga effect manifested itself in the electrifying flare skirts, sculptured drapes, and highly structured basques on key runway shows such as Jil Sander, Jason Wu, Celine, Comme des Garcons and Rick Owens.
As the cool breeze sweeps in, designers look at another legacy of Balenciaga _ the massive volume and cocoon shape _ for the investment piece that is the coat.
The pre-fall wool coats come in short lengths _ falling mostly just above the knees _ and produce alluring contrasts of fluid-yet-structured curves. The sleeves are beefed up and prominent while the voluminous shape means the coats flare out, or at best fall in straight lines, allowing easy movement for girls on the go.
With the shape of the top piece being so structured and loose, designers often leave the bottoms fitting tightly. Skinny trousers and leggings become a great complement for the pre-fall coats and often the look is finished simply with knee-high boots for effortless chic.
However, in a tropical climate where the word coat sounds as familiar as snowstorm, it's probably not easy to see how this trend is even relevant.
Although Thai fashionistas cannot enjoy pre-fall's signature pieces, never mind those of autumn or winter, unless they travel somewhere far, far away, it's not that the whole silhouette related to the coat-and-legging look is completely irrelevant here. It's more likely that as the temperature begins to drop, we may see a lot of wool jumpers, cropped jackets, and even tops made of thick cotton in structured shapes that simulate the ubiquitous pre-fall coats from international runways.
And when the time comes, you'll know just what type of skirts and trousers to wear to enjoy that low-temperature look in our tropical way.
About the author
- Writer: Samila Wenin
Position: Muse Editor