I often wonder why Chinese banquets are hysterically cheerful, rather noisy, with guests constantly moving from one table to another, holding cups brimful with rice liquor known as bai jiu.
Such noisy scenes are not banquets, at least by my definition. A Thai-style banquet is rather a rigid formal affair during which social protocols don't encourage interaction between the host and guests.
After attending several banquets in the Middle Kingdom _ the ancient name of China, which in modern context alludes to Beijing as the capital and seat of power _ I concluded that the character of Chinese banquet is defined by culture and purpose. While Thais drink to celebrate or find an escape, the drinking philosophy in China is completely different.
Known as "banquet drinking culture", there is an ancient proverb that best captures its spirit _ "a banquet without liquor cannot be called a feast," and we all tend to agree with it.
But consuming alcohol in China is more than binge drinking and there are rules and etiquette to be followed _ gan bei style, which is finishing the whole cup to show respect and hospitality for jing jiu, the ritual of inviting others to a toast and others reciprocating in return.
In banquet drinking culture, intoxication is acceptable and it's not taken harshly as long as it doesn't cause public harm or nuisance, such as drink-driving. It is the duty of the host to make guests drink as much as possible as it reflects good opinion towards the host or at least towards the choice or quality of the liquor.
Indeed, getting drunk is considered an act of showing honesty and trust in the host; you put your fate in the hands of your host (who might be equally drunk or even more than you).
So, getting drunk in the Middle Kingdom is quite a rigorous ritual.
Rule No.1: Men _ except those with health problems or those who have to drive their cars _ are expected to drink and it is tantamount to disgrace if you don't. Women, teenagers and Muslims are exempt. But they can engage in the ritual by doing the gan bei with their cups of tea, juice or even milk. But you have to be careful as it is not polite to switch from Coca-Cola to pricey Grand Cru or Mao Tai in the middle of the party. It shows your character _ indecisive and prone to temptation. So, refrain.
Rule No.2: Learn how to hold your cup and in correct position.
Proposing a toast, the cup must be held with both hands _ it is a show of respect and humility and, when clinking, make sure your cup is positioned at a level lower to those older than you. To show your sincerity, you must show the empty cup after each gan bei. You will clink the cup to the table when you do not want to walk or stand for toasting. Always remember a cup is not just a cup.
Rule No.3: Don't be shy.
It is pointless and a waste of time and money to serve alcoholic beverages to guests who just drink alone or simply mingle with their own crowd as if they were at a private party.
A Chinese-style banquet is characterised by loud noise simply because it is meant to be so.
Hosts and guests are expected to present short speeches expressing goodwill and invite others to drink and reciprocate to jing jiu or offer a toast starting with the host, followed by guests starting from senior to junior ones, and also the other way round.
At a feast courtesy of the local chapter of the Communist Party of China to which I was invited, I noted that the party boss didn't sit still but was always on the move, to guests at other tables, toasting to them and even junior members of the party. So, drinking in a way is good pointer of social hierarchy.
Rule No.4: You must learn to speak in public. Chinese banquets are not for the timid who giggle or hide in bathrooms when asked to make a speech. The host is usually a good orator and guests must respond in kind if asked by friends to offer greetings in return. So, don't be shy.
The culture varies according to region and ethnicity. It is part of the culture of Hui Muslims to abstain from alcohol and one needs to respect them for that. Northern people are good at holding their drinks, while in Shanghai you don't expect to drink that much.
Banquet drinking culture in Inner Mongolia is most popular. Hosts croon folk songs and present guests white hada scarves when offering a toast. Guests need to dip the ring finger into cups they are given and sprinkle the droplets skyward _ a mark of respect to the heavens and the Earth. They are then invited to make brief speeches and sing, without karaoke music, followed by dancing. Many people, myself included, rate the Inner Mongolia banquet as one of the most memorable.
And here's the final part, which is not fun at all, but demands strict compliance.
Like in any country, injuries and deaths caused by drunk drivers are on the rise in China. To save innocent lives, the authorities have enacted strict laws to punish offenders.
Drink-driving in China is a criminal offence with penalties ranging from 15-day imprisonment and revocation of driving licence for three to six months or more based on damage or injury caused. In 2009, the court handed the death penalty to a corporate executive who killed four people and injured another while driving under the influence of alcohol. A year later a rich kid was sentenced to six years in jail for killing a student for a similar reason.
No wonder most Chinese people attending banquets take taxis when it is time to go home; this too is part of the country's banquet drinking culture.
Today being Friday, I am certain many of my readers will be celebrating. In China, today is the start of a long national holiday, the Golden Week, when people return to their home towns, and it is time for the banquet drinking culture to kick in and run its course.
So open up and say gan bei or bottoms up. Wherever you are, never drive drunk.
Anchalee Kongrut is a writer for Life, currently based in Beijing on the FK journalist exchange programme.