Yoshoku Yummies

Yoshoku Yummies

Western fare gets Japanised at Shio

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

Ramen in tom yum soup. Sushi with a grasshopper on top. Ketchup, mayonnaise and sausage on fish-feed bread for faux pizza. Spaghetti stir-fried with ketchup, minced pork, carrot and corn.

It seems some dishes of foreign origin have already been Thai-ified but this tendency to localise foreign food isn't exclusive to Thailand only. Take Japan, for example. They have Japan-ised so many European dishes that they have a term for it - yoshoku.

The three-month old Shio Cafe & Restaurant specialises in the yoshoku subset of Japanese cuisine and is brought to you by 29-year-old chef and owner Yada "Kaew" Ruangsukudom who studied culinary arts at the renowned Hattori Nutrition College in Tokyo.

The venue is a grey house that looks quite unremarkable on the outside. However, the main dining area exudes understated elegance. The tall windows allow light to pour in while the high ceiling gives the space an airy feel. Japanese housewives who meet up for lunch could probably happily spend a few hours on the comfy couches. The alfresco area has some shrubs and is under a roof so you won't totally be at the mercy of the weather but it might not matter anyway since it feels like 40 degrees Celsius all the time these days.

Speaking of Thailand's perpetual summer, Salmon carpaccio (B320; prices subject to tax and service charge) should soothe you as a cold starter while warming up your appetite. Thin slices of salmon are enhanced with a dash of spice, crisp and colourful veggies and watery tart ponzu dressing. Fortunately, the fish doesn't drown in these add-ons and emerges flavourful and juicy, thanks to the many thin layers of fat that are more than welcome.

Hamburg steak (B390) almost gets full points. The sunny-side-up fried egg placed atop the patty is perhaps a bit overdone. When you cut into it, you get some yolk lava running onto the patty but not as much as I hope. The thick patty of grounded beef doesn't feel too dense and demi-glace buoys it up with flavour and richness.

Kurobuta saute (B440) is a thorough delight. Pieces of Berkshire pork are cooked just right. They are placed atop a bed of buttery mashed potato. Like Hamburg steak, this dish also comes with grilled veggies for extra smokiness.

Penne gratin (B340) offers a lot of goodies such as bacon, cheese and mushroom but not quite the gooey texture I hope for. The pasta isn't mushy but the shrimp on top shrinks in flavours.

Dried curry rice (B270) delivers the aromatic and tasty magic of Japanese curry rice minus the pool of curry gravy on the plate - a concentrated version of it, if you will. The scrambled egg is fluffy while the mix of sliced-until-translucently-thin bell peppers and onions give off fresh crispness.

Besides a good variety of yoshoku items, the place also offers alcoholic drinks and Japanese-style desserts.

Midori sour (B280) is one of seven signature cocktails on offer. Try it for some sweet and sour sips to a light end of a hearty meal. For those who like to save some stomach space for dessert, choose from one of the genuinely impressive 12 serious selections on offer.

Mixed fruit mille crepe (B185) should win you over whether you have a sweet tooth or not, with delicate layers of crepe and airy cream. There are four types of fruits hidden in the slice. While strawberry, cantaloupe and kiwi burst with refreshing juice, the banana pieces feel like the odd one out, being too heavy.

The pricing is a bit high so people who want to get the most bang out of their baht may want to consider the better-value lunchtime options from Shio. Set A (B259) allows you to choose one of five pasta dishes or one of five rice dishes and includes salad and clear soup. For Set B (B359), you can get one of four grilled dishes that comes with salad, clear soup and rice or bread. A glass of soft drink (B60) isn't included. The lunch sets are available every day from 11am-2:30pm.

There are many highs and few lows during my visit to Shio. If you would like to take a break from traditional Japanese fare that exists all over Bangkok and try out Japanese versions of western food, this is the place for you.G


Shio Yoshoku Cafe & Restaurant Japanese

11am-10:30pm 127, Sukhumvit 49/3 02-662-8378 facebook.com/shiorestaurant

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