Finding Neverland

Enter the magical world of wholesome American food at Peter's Pan

It's hard not to imagine whimsical gimmicks when you hear of a restaurant named Peter's Pan. We think of waitresses dressed in Tinker Bell costumes, Captain Hook using his signature hand to spear meat, and those who try to dine and dash being made to walk the plank.

If you're like Peter Pan and refuse to grow up, your inner child may be disappointed that the newly opened Peter's Pan doesn't stay true to the elements of the story. Fortunately, grown people with a special liking to steaks and other wholesome American dishes should find the place to be a culinary adventure.

The restaurant officially opened at its new location at lifestyle complex Mille Malle in the beginning of March but it has actually been around since 1993, priding itself as one of the best steakhouses in Bangkok.

Surf & turf

Although the decor of Peter's Pan isn't fashioned after Neverland, you will be quite amazed once you step inside. It oozes eclectic taste and comes across as a study hall/art gallery/dining room of an avid traveller who flies first class. Ancient artefacts including Khmer deities, Buddha statues from the Sukhothai era and Chinese figurines are put on display to show their timeless glory. The main dining area also features a small library with National Geographic magazines.

Girls, if a man treats you to a meal here at this kind of pricing, it means he really, really likes you. Also, given the generous portions, it can be a place to bond between friends since you're likely to have to unite to finish the big dishes.

Foie gras (B450; prices subject to tax and service charge) would be pan-fried to almost perfection if the outside was a little crispier. The oily sensation of duck liver may be too much for some but can be balanced with the side of red cabbage, raisins and ripe mango.

Norfolk seafood platter (B1,950) is grandiose in terms of both presentation and flavours. Plump and juicy scallop goes great with spicy melted butter that bubbles away in a small aromatherapy lamp. The tasty tiger prawn unleashes some smoky flavour. Bros, you can be a hero and come to your lady's rescue by cracking open the Alaskan crab arm for her.

You may have to summon the strength of everyone at the table to defeat Roasted prime rib (B1,500). However it's a delicious struggle. The 330g grain-fed prime rib is served au jus (that's fancy talk for "with its own juice") for additional flavour. There's also hidden treasure on this meat island in the form of chewy tendon. This dish is available on Fridays and Saturdays only as of now.

Lamb shank (B470) lavishes your palate. The aromatic and tender meat easily comes off the bone with a gentle fork poke.

Surf & turf (B1,800) is a gargantuan duet of 500g Maine lobster and 330g tenderloin black angus beef that you can really sink your teeth into. The thick beef should give your stomach a juicy workout.

Pan-fried US cod loin (B800) offers two chunky fillets of the mild-tasting fish. The firm flesh is a nice canvas for tasty hollandaise sauce. The side of white asparagus almost melts in your mouth.

Peter's Pan is serious about giving you a wholesome sit-up dining experience where you can't help but appreciate the size of dishes and its tons of flavours. Pricing here may feel like paying a fee to enter a real-life Neverland but Peter's Pan offers more bang for your baht with its epic portions. With great taste, interesting ambience and convenient location, Peter's Pan works well on many levels, no fairy dust necessary.G


Peter’s Pan Roasted Prime Ribs & Steaks American

11am-2pm, 5-11pm 2/F, Mille Malle, 66/4 Sukhumvit Soi 20 02-663-4560-1 www.peters-pan.com, facebook.com/ Peterpansbkk

Norfolk seafood platter

About the author

columnist
Writer: Pornchai Sereemongkonpol
Position: Guru Reporter