There are many ways to lighten up your mood in Bangkok. Petting soi dogs and cats (rabies-free ones, that is). Giving coins to beggars (and making a wish to become filthy rich). Going on a "sampling spree" at supermarkets (before your movie). Or reading Guru and liking us at facebook.com/gurumagazinebangkok (pardon the shameless self-promotion).
But if all of the above fail, there's always the option of hearty drinking and eating to brighten up your day. And the good news is that Bangkok is a galaxy of eateries and the rate of new places being opened is seemingly approaching the speed of light.
Luce, which means light, opened earlier this year as a high-end Italian place and it shines quite bright with contemporary and traditional dishes in a classy atmosphere. It already has outlets in Rome, San Francisco and Moscow, which is a pretty mean pedigree.
Situated on the 14th floor of Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok, the fourth branch of Luce exudes opulence decor-wise. The wall panels are made of light-coloured stone that's lit from behind and radiates a soothing glow. The high curved ceiling is covered in a vine pattern with branches glittering from tiny LED lights that dance and change colours in hypnotic rhythm. From plush armchairs, enjoy the view of the adjacent infinity-edge pool and city skyline through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. There's a dining room tucked away in one corner which also offers ample views of the city.
Pan-seared US scallops
While the atmosphere gives the impression of a place where gentlemen don three-piece suits and ladies wear cocktail dresses with shawls over their shoulders as they clink their wine glasses, many patrons are in casual clothes so wearing Crocs might not be an issue (yes, they look funny but they're super comfy and Jared Leto wears them too!). However, this kind of shmancy setting seems like it would be best for sealing deals - whether it leads to success in the bedroom with a romantic partner, or in the boardroom with a business partner.
Luce kicks your meal off with a complimentary hors d'oeuvre which changes every day and I have grilled veggies and mozzarella with pizza bread for an aromatic and appetising start. For a freebie, this isn't too shabby at all.
Pan-seared US scallops (B450) offer a flavour sensation through tender and plump scallop flesh that has a slightly crusty texture. They are wrapped with pancetta pork belly for salty contrast. Complementing the dish with a nice aroma and slight acidity is balsamic-flavoured lentils.
The Luce (B1,800) is an all-star dish, bringing three delicacies - wagyu strips, sauteed mushroom and foie gras - on one thin disc of bread. The Australian wagyu beef has a marble score of eight, leaving a delicious and lingering aftertaste.
Pan-fried wild seabass fillet (B620) bursts an elusive but welcoming liveliness. Smoky and smooth kicks from aubergine caviar complement the firm fish flesh, which has a salty crust.
Wagyu beef steak ala "Fiorentina" (B2,400) offers a lot of juicy chews and the meat is already sliced into strips when served. Rocket salad, parmesan shavings and roasted potatoes add more knock-out quality to the dish.
Rosemary roasted chicken breast (B580) tastes rather bland for my liking on its own but a trio of corn, buttered spinach and rosemary jus keeps it above the bar.
While I appreciate the artsy and unexpected way the chef presents White chocolate jelly on nut crumbles (B420), I feel the white chocolate cubes are a tad too dense. However, they provide nice contrast when you dab them with creamy rosemary ice cream or strawberry and black pepper compote.
Luce offers an extensive list of wines mostly flown in from Italy. Wines by the glass start from B210 while bottles start from B1,000. By the time this review comes out, payday is still a week away so you may want to opt for the two-course or three-course business lunch menu which is available every day. Start off by choosing a starter - Tomato bruschetta, Spaghetti with lightly smoked eggplant or soup of the day. Then make a decision between Sliced roasted pork belly on a bed of pearl barley and carrots or Garoupa with spinach and sweet corn for a main course. End your lunch with either Marinated fruit salad with sorbet or dessert of the day. The two-course option costs B447 while the three-course option is B615. Both include coffee or tea.
With its opulent interior and hotel setting, Luce is a place for hardcore Italian food lovers to find something authentic to light up their palate (i.e. those who don't run to a pizza chain or pick a pack of frozen carbonara at a convenience store to get their Italian fix).G
