The definite

The definite

The District gets bold with article, steaks and more

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

Call us grammar geeks, but it's amazing the difference a single article can make when put in front of a name. We considered calling ourselves "The Guru" for this edition, in sympathy with the restaurant up for consideration here, but decided against. But while The District brazenly insists its own definite article, it has reason to be confident.

Think New York rather than South Africa in reference to this place. JW Marriott has already stamped a patch of the Big Apple at the other end of Sukhumvit on Soi 2 at the New York Steakhouse, where slabs of marbled beef run into the thousands of baht. If that represents the Upper East Side, then The District is its younger brother perhaps down in Soho, offering the flavour but with less pomp and show at the deeper end of Bangkok's Broadway - Sukhumvit.

Fresh seafood displayed on the bar

While most guests looking for a pre-dinner cocktail might head to Octave on the hotel's roof to enjoy the view (except when it rains, of course), The District attracts a more subdued crowd looking for a glass of wine rather than an apple-tini. The Marriott is a business brand, after all. But if it's a business dinner venue, it would be with your more social colleagues rather than your boss visiting from out of town.

Inside, leather seats adorn the bar area at the entrance that fits around 20. The two main rooms are luxuriously spaced to afford 70 or so places. They could have easily fit another few tables in, but have opted for elbow room. The lighting is kept low, making the flame of the open kitchen a constant presence. A playful chalkboard featuring the outline of a cow reminds us of our obligations as guests.

The menu is a straightforward and well-executed take on a steakhouse. The drink card of two pages offers cocktails (B270++) ranging from the traditional to signatures. Tomojito adds olive tomato vodka, basil syrup and a cherry tomato for garnish in a garden-fresh take on the classic. Black truffle martini is a less successful leap. On the flip side of the menu are a handful each of reasonably priced red and white wines (B1,100-B1,500).

There's also a seven-course tasting menu (B2,200) made up of the daily specials at our visit.

From the 11 appetisers on offer, Alaskan scallops (B850) features fleshy North American chunks of scallop that are a little dominated by sharpness from the citrus drizzle. Tiny beetroot cubes add colour and sweetness. The signature Caesar salad (B400) is an explosion of textures, neatly presented. There's plenty of seafood on offer for the non-carnivores, namely fresh Lobster (B1,350/B2,350 for half/full), crab, scallops, and fish; as well as most combinations thereof.

Rib-eye steak with bearnaise sauce and gratin dauphinoise

However the main event comes from the meat tray. The beef is imported from Australia after being fed grain for 240 days. The result is a velvety, "perfect" steak experience of your choice of cut - rib-eye, sirloin or tenderloin. Our rib-eye (B1,350/B2,350 for 300g/600g) cut like silk and was given a buttery punch from the bearnaise sauce, one of six selections. There are eight sides (B220) to chose from, with gratin dauphinoise and asparagus claiming honours. And a modest spread of desserts and pastries, including the on-point Chocolate lava cake (B350) rounds out the calorie onslaught.

A big advantage of being in a hotel chain is access to a pool of staff and experience. The District feels like it has already been open for months, with the staff trained up and ready to go. Also, Marriott has nailed the location of their newest property, right on Sukhumvit near the mouth of coveted Thong Lor. The stiff competition of venues in the area has kept their prices down, but will ensure traffic flow from well-dressed locals.

With Octave upstairs selling itself on the view, The District will garner a crowd with its straightforward concept done well at a reasonable price point, definite article or not.G


The District

6-11pm (bar 5pm-midnight)
2/F, Bangkok Marriott Hotel
Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57
02-797-0000

Chocolate lava cake

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