There has been plenty said on the burgeoning brunch scene in the city of late, but hopefully there will be plenty more, so here goes. We now have choices on a Sunday morning, people. Choices! And this has expanded even further of late with a savvy newcomer in the depths of the upper Sukhumvit paddock in Simple.
Calling itself a "natural kitchen", "organic grocery" and "cafe and restaurant" no less, the description might be a little wordy but you get the idea. It's a shophouse on a carpark with plenty of natural light, polished concrete floor and timbered furniture, open kitchen (including bins!) as well as some obligatory industrial light fittings and enough space for around 25 inside, 12 outside and 11 upstairs in the near future. Timber crates of organic groceries and food products such as coconut oil and cinnamon sticks produced by a regional school align shelves and are for sale, extending the homey charm. In short, for the general punter, it's a cute local spot with friendly service, great food and not much fuss. Simple.
At the helm is Natcha "Ploy" Chatlaong, who had organics in the family which led her to cooking school in London. On returning to Bangkok she hooked up with local luminaries in the kitchens at Bo.lan and Appia to fine tune her young craft, and it shows that she has been working with some of the city's best.
While the city is flooded with NFP venues (not for profit), Simple seems determined to stand on its own two feet. The middle-class Sukhumvit and the like teem with restaurants and now cafes that aren't particularly interested in the bottom line as much as their ability to entertain guests and friends of the owners. Simple seems to be doing just what it promises - being organic - this time in terms of its own growth, in a new injection of honesty in the industry. While it lacks the professionalism and finance of a place like Rocket, it makes up for it with its relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere, along with the tasty culinary creations of Ploy (as well as her great taste in music). Hopefully she can find more hands for busy weekend periods.
Simple's menu is succinct, delivering seven tight breakfast options and other things. We tried Frittata & slow roasted tomato (B180++), which is cutely presented in a saucepan and oozes flavour from the fresh eggs and colourful organic veggies laid on top. The parallels with rival brunch spot (in a good way) Gastro 1/6 at RMA Institute are apparent with the common element of the esteemed Bo.lan linking the two with their commitment to local produce. Here, the emphasis is on fresh and flavourful rather than dictatorially diet-conscious blandness - a splash of oil and salt isn't a life sentence, after all. Ask the Mediterraneans.
Meatball & melted cheese (B220) from the Bruschettas menu oozes flavour from the juicy pork sprinkled with parmesan cheese and laid on crispy sourdough - mouthfuls of deliciousness that likely footnote an Appia heritage.
From the salad section, Simple salad with avocado (B190) is a straightforward garden of greens (and red) with a gentle, tangy dressing - perfect to offset something more robust from the menu. There are other more elaborate salad options and sandwiches for the willing.
For a sweet surprise, try Pancake with mango coulis & seasonal fruits (B160), adapted for our visit to embrace a banana topping; but that's fine with us as long as it's fresh and tasty, which it is. The pancake is light and fluffy without too much sweet syrup on the plate, presented with a snowfall of icing sugar to complete the happy treat.
On the drinks front, the organic coffee is courtesy of Chiang Rai-grown beans, roasted more locally. Cafe latte (B120) is creamy and avoids bitterness, but needs a skinny milk option to please the cafe connoisseurs of the city. Beetroot & pineapple (B80) fresh juice is served in a jar and packs all the earthy goodness of its ingredients without any additives (including crushed ice to thin it out), as does its Pineapple & mango (B95) counterpart - perfect for a morning vitamin boost. Perhaps a large option would sell too? As will the alcohol, no doubt, when they get the license.
With Opposite set to open for brunch soon and Rocket continuing its kill in Sathon, Bangkok suddenly jumps higher on the liveability (and brunch-ability) scale. And, now Simple delivers a healthy and organic plate of self-sufficient culinary diligence. What better place to read your copy of Guru on a lazy weekend?G
Simple. Natural Kitchen
International Tue-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 7am-8pm 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31 02-662-2510 facebook.com/simplegrocers
