In his fourth year as creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti has proven that he's as adept at designing women's as well as men's clothing while continuing the Salvatore Ferragamo tradition.
The exceptional craftsmanship of the Florentine House was on display in the women's autumn/winter 2013/2014 collection, which has been described as clothing filled with architectural neatness.
The creative director employed shapes to reveal the precision of cut, the consistency of texture and depth of the design. Modern silhouettes were cleverly created by moving, sliding and layering, highlighted by the geometric progression of patterns and by overlaying, real or implied by nets.
The effects of overlapping resulted in a hybrid of technical performance and fine tailoring, presented in oversized outfits and masculine-inspired coats.
Other highlights included short dresses worn over scoop neck tops that move, fold and turn into one seamless piece while drawing a shifting outline around the body. Giornetti's zippers were even designed to create an imaginary path through the seams as "scars".
He eliminated the unnecessary and emphasised textures and patterns with the use of geometric prints, nets, netted marquetry and PVC inserts. Winter clothing requires robust fabrics hence the use of dry silk wool and hand line nylon on a pony-like wool paired with luxurious fur. They came in white, blue, black and grey for a mysterious winter palette.
The overlaying fabrics also appeared in the men's collection, which included a reversible pea-coat made of leather backed by felt, a double-sided nappa blouson with a removable shearling lining, and a rain cape enhanced by a sumptuous lining of cashmere with leather trimming.
Key colours converged with the intensity of sheer black; a range of greys such as Gun Metal and Storm; blue hues such as Blue Graphite and Midnight Blue; and green tones like Night Green.
Giornetti joined the Salvatore Ferragamo Group as a knitwear designer in the menswear department and took the helm in 2004. Six year later, the Ferragamo family assigned him to do the women's line.
With his expertise, he was particularly keen on creating knitwear with 3D texturing, high collars and striking patterns for this collection. The knitwear offers warmth as well as tactile sensations delivered by high-tech neoprene, together with wool and silk yarn, by layering knitwear and with a touch of baize.
Innovative accessories
With its origins dating back to 1927, Salvatore Ferragamo started with designing shoes. The creativity and craftsmanship plus innovation now applies to making an array of accessories released for fall/winter 2013-14.
Pieces from the new collection are the result of experimenting with the rubberisation of leather that crosses the line between craftsmanship and technology. The transformational vortex allows new textures to leather, and this technical rubberisation is demonstrated in the bi-material duffle bag and backpack.
Rubberised material also appears on eyewear, which combines rubberised plastic with metal and tortoise shell for a futuristic look.
Also a new approach, men's footwear is accented with two-tone multi-layer rubber soles, whose "tank tread" is designed for stability and elegance on the urban asphalt.
Shoe-making for ladies encompasses PVC details, patent leather and metallic outlines underlining openings and cuts, complementing the amplified shapes of shoes, boots, pointy sandals and high heels.
Bags are presented with clean, sculpted silhouettes, soft and round or firmed and squared as small vanity or camera cases.
