A delicious year in review

A delicious year in review

2013 has been good to the foodie _ breakfast, coffee, mushrooms and more made valuable contributions to Bangkok's fast-evolving dining scene

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

THE BOOM OF BREAKFAST

Breakfast has forever been promoted as the most important meal of the day, but it wasn't until recently that Bangkok diners seemed to begin taking their morning meal more seriously than ever.

Thanks to several breakfast-style dishes that have successfully squeezed their way onto the menu of modern day eateries _ from trendy coffee houses, casual restaurants and cutting-edge gastrobars to five-star buffets, gourmands can now find egg-based dishes and other morning staples included among dinner fare like seafood, steaks and cocktails.

Gone are the days when Eggs Benedict came with a description. Now the sauce-dripping, poached-egg delicacy has become one of the best-selling choices at many eateries. In addition to its classic topping (a single slab of ham and Hollandaise sauce), the dish is also offered in sophisticated alternative forms, such as house-smoked salmon, white asparagus and crab cake, with dressings ranging from curry-infused sauce to truffle shavings to caviar.

Breakfast has also proved a business inspiration for restaurateurs. In the past year, Bangkok has seen the opening of several establishments dedicated solely to the meal. Calling themselves coffee bars, patisseries, breakfast cafes or boulangeries, they have quickly become favourite dining venues among urbanites.

Among the city's most popular joints for all-day breakfast are Rocket Coffeebar, Calin La Boulangerie and Cafe, Roast Coffee & Eatery, Simple, Gastro 1/6, Minibar Royal, Cafe Tartine, Chu and Le Petit Zinc.

THE BREWING YEAR

Coffee drinkers have enjoyed an astounding increase in outlets, and ordering cappuccino has become an obligatory (and perhaps fashionable) part of Thai lifestyle.

We can say that 2013 is the year that coffee-drinking in Thailand rose to another level, with more than 1,500 shops by mainstream roasting houses mushrooming across the country.

This is thanks to the arrival of more overseas coffee chains (UK's Costa Coffee, Australia's Coffee Club and USA's The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf), and an addition of local coffee bars (Roots, Casa Lapin Coffee Bar, Ceresia Coffee Roaster, Brave Roasters and Amatissimo Caffe) run by artisan coffee masters.

These passion-driven "indy baristas" dotting the chic neighbourhood of Sukhumvit have taught Thais to unhesitatingly order coffee by its Italian characterisation _ cappucino, espresso, macchiato, Americano _ demand organically grown beans and search for adventurous new roasts of exotic origins.

THE RISE OF MUSHROOMS

Thais are mad about mushrooms like never before. The edible fungi are taking Bangkok by storm.

The selection of fresh, dried and processed mushrooms have multiplied to a mind-numbing degree, and have begun to take up a lot more space at fresh-produce markets and upscale gourmet food shops.

This evolution is also evident in the food-service sphere, from cheap food carts to pricey rooftop establishments. Commuters can find vendors selling various styles of yum hed (sour and spicy salad of locally grown mushrooms) and nam phrik hed (mushroom-chilli dip). Meanwhile, at five-star restaurants and well-heeled epicurean events, Western species like chanterelle, morel, black trumpet, portobello and truffle are appearing on menus more often. "Foraged mushrooms" _ referring to seasonal fungi gathered in the wild _ have entered the high-end culinary lexicon, invariably drawing the attention of discerning diners.

ARTISAN FOOD AND FARMERS' MARKETS

A recent buzz word in Thailand's circle of highbrow gastronomy, ''artisan'' foods have offered a new thrill for urban food snobs who lost their faith in the term ''home-made'', which has been so overused (and perhaps abused) that it's become less trustworthy.

Despite the fact that both terms refer to food prepared off factory lines in small batches, artisan differentiates itself with its integrity. Artisan food is usually crafted with love, attention to detail and with concern to the environment and community.

Bangkok's delirium for all things artisanal is complemented by an increase of farmers' markets where shoppers can find micro-bakeries, cheese affineurs, coffee roasters and charcuterie masters.

The city's most popular farmers' markets include the monthly Bangkok Farmers' Market at K Village, the Spring Epicurean Market in the front yard of Spring & Summer restaurant, and Big Bite Bangkok, which is held every three months at Ma Du Zi hotel.

Michael Conkey of Conkey's Bakery, bread master Benjamin Lord of Urban Pantry, Joe Sloane of Sloane's Sausages, affineur Reinhard Matheis of Heaven on Cheese, bakers Jean-Philippe Arnaud Landry and Tom Kirk of Maison Jean Philippe and coffee roaster Ekameth Witvasutti of Brave Coffee are among the city's most famous artisanal producers.

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