‘One of the world’s most influential kitchen wizards, Ferran Adria, said a few years ago that the two places in the world to watch for the gastronomic evolution were Asia and Latin America,’’ Clement Vachon, San Pellegrino’s international relations and communication manager said to me shortly before the “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Award 2014” ceremony officially started.
fro m left: Nahm’s dessert chef Thongsak Yordwai and head chef Prin Polsuk, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin’s chefowner Henrik Yde-Andersen, Bo.lan’s chef-owner Dylan Jones, Issaya Siamese Club’s chef-founder Ian Kittichai, Nahm’s chef-founder David Thompson, Bo.lan’s chef-owner Bo Songvisava, Eat Me’s executive chef Tim Butler, Gaggan’s chef-owner Gaggan Anand and Eat Me’s owner Darren Hausler.
“And we are here today to discover the talents, share them with the world and celebrate,’’ Vachon said.
Indeed it was to be a special night of celebrations for Thailand at the S. Pellegrino and Aqua Panna sponsored award ceremony, which took place in Singapore last week. Nahm, a Thai restaurant based in Bangkok, was announced the best restaurant in Asia, while Gaggan, a progressive Indian restaurant on the ritzy Soi Lang Suan ranked third.
At the same event, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, a cutting-edge Thai restaurant at Siam Kempinski Hotel, was awarded 21st place; Bo.lan, a Thai restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 26 took the 28th spot, Issaya Siamese Club on Chua Phloeng Road took 31st and Eat Me international restaurant on Soi Phiphat went away with 37th.
To have a restaurant from Bangkok at the top of the list and another five ranked in the top 40 out of 23 countries in the voting roster, it’s really been a blazing year for Thailand.
Thai food has, for a long time, been popular globally and well-known as a street food paradise. Over the past couple of years however, the country’s capital has witnessed a dynamic development of uber-sophisticated restaurants with an increasing number of out-of-town star-studded chefs adopting Bangkok as their harbour.
In 2010, Nahm by David Thompson of Michelin-starred Nahm in London opened amidst a stirring debate as to whether it was legitimate for a blue-eyed, blond-haired Australian chef to dare opening an authentic Thai restaurant in the Land of Smiles. Despite the controversy, Nahm was well received by diners — locals and foreigners — and ranked No 50 and No 32 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards in 2012 and 2013 respectively.
Nahm’s favourable début in the motherland was followed by the opening of the Bangkok branch of Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, which, much like with Nahm, had its origins in Europe — Copenhagen, Denmark. Kiin Kiin was, in fact, the second Thai restaurant in the world to win a Michelin star. A brainchild of Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen and Thai engineer-cum-gastronomist Lertchai Treetawatchaiwong, Sra Bua is Bangkok’s first molecular gastronomy establishment offering Thai cuisine through a series of thought-provoking culinary creations.
There are, meanwhile, an astounding number of establishments in the Big Mango that are a fruit of world-class celebrity chefs. The list includes Scarlett at Pullman Bangkok Hotel G by Manuel Martinez, chef-owner of the two-Michelin star Relais Louis XIII restaurant in Paris; The Liit (closed down in 2013) at K Village, Bangkok by Roberto Petza, chef-owner of a Michelin star S’Apposentu al Teatro Lirico in Sardinia, Italy; D’sens at Dusit Thani Hotel by the Pourcel twin brothers of two-Michelin star Le Jardin des Sens In France; and soon to open L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Bangkok at Maha Nakhon Tower by Joel Robuchon; a French chef who has collected a total of 28 Michelin Guide stars — the most of any chef in the world.
The “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards 2014” have strongly confirmed a new chapter for Thailand’s culinary landscape as a world-renowned destination for high-brow gourmet.
“I am astonished because I was just doing what I love to do and not even thinking about the awards at all,” said Thai cuisine master and founder of this year’s best restaurant in Asia, David Thompson.
“When I decided to open Nahm in Bangkok three and a half years ago, a lot of people kept asking what I was thinking opening a Thai restaurant in Thailand. But, you know, I had been cooking Thai food for 25 years and it was like going home,’’ he said.
At Nahm, originality and authenticity of age-old recipes are highly valued as the key to good practice. The dining manner at Nahm is also humble as guests share simple-looking, home-cooked delicacies in a casual and contemporary setting.
“Bangkok has always been the world’s best city to eat in. But over the last several years, the city’s fine dining restaurant scene has been getting to the stage where it’s being noticed throughout the world.
“In the next few years, more and more people will see Bangkok as they see Hong Kong or Singapore. Not only as a great place to eat Thai food but as a hub of great cuisines from all over the world and at every level; from easy meals on busy streets to sophisticated dinners at plush restaurants,’’ Thompson said.
Chef Gaggan Anand of Gaggan, this year’s 3rd best restaurant in Asia, agreed that the gastronomic image of Thailand is rising from a cheap-eat country to a gourmet destination.
“Many things have changed in the three years since we first opened. At that time gourmet tourism did not really exist in Thailand, only street food. But thanks to the Tourism Authority of Thailand who has done great work promoting fine local restaurants, people are looking at Thailand very differently today,’’ said the amiable and talented Indian chef, who’s adopted Thailand as his home.
“When I was sitting at the ceremony, Mr Roca [Joan Roca of three-Michelin-star El Celler de Can Roca, which was ranked the World Best Restaurant of 2013] and Mr Andoni [Andoni Luis Aduriz of a two-Michelin-star Mugaritz restaurant] came to me and said ‘Gaggan everybody in Europe was talking about you’.
“You know I learn from these guys, they are my gurus. And now they’re talking about me. So imagine how good you can feel. It means we are in the eyes of the world.’’
The Indian culinary artist said the fact that two out of the best top three are Asian cuisine restaurants from Thailand will help create a big change in the perception of Thailand’s gastronomy.
“When I came to Thailand in 2008, the places for fine dining were only non-Asian — European to be exact. So this award actually proves the strength that Asian cuisine can be regarded as equal or even superior to European fine dining.’’
At Gaggan, the Indian cuisine is characterised by sharp and eccentric creations prepared with “futuristic” cooking techniques and presented mainly in a very distinctive style of a tasting menu.
“In the past I was a bit scared to express my cooking style, but now with this recognition I know whatever I present people will be eager to experience and will love it. At least I know that diners in Thailand are much more familiar and relaxed with a multi-course meal.’’
Another Asian restaurant from Bangkok to be recognised at the Awards was Bo.lan, ranked 28th in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014 list.
A veteran to the event, last year Bo.lan fetched 36th place, while the chef-owner Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava was announced 2013 Asia’s Best Female Chef.
Chef Bo and her husband, chef Dylan Jones, had worked for several years in the kitchen of David Thompson’s Nahm in London. Following his example, they carried out extensive research into the cooking traditions of the Thai palaces, noting recipes, ingredients and presentation and re-creating the authentic, sophisticated Thai cuisine that was in danger of being lost.
According to chef Bo, the award has pushed Thai chefs into a brighter international limelight, yet, interestingly it has generated very little attention among Thai media.
“Last year after receiving the award, I’d seen very little interest from the Thai media whereas those from Europe and Australia were queuing up for an interview.
“In Thailand, the excitement is more concerned with molecular gastronomy; on foam and spherification. So as my culinary dedication leans toward sustainability and organic farming, this seems boring.’’
Chef Bo said what she’d love to see more in the Thai gastronomic scene is authentic Thai dishes that taste good and help elevate the perception of Thai cuisine among locals as fashionable and refined.
“Thai food is more widely perceived by Thai diners as simply cooked food. Such ideas are due to the availability of semi-ready ingredients, which any cook — at household or professional level — can mix with proteins and serve. So Thai food is usually seen as uncomplicated and inexpensive.’’
The award-winning lady chef, who always creates her food from scratch, says that rather heartbreakingly authentic green curries are often compared to rocket salads.
“Thais are willing to pay 450 baht for a simple plate of rocket leaves with cherry tomatoes — all grown in Chiang Mai. But they are very reluctant to pay the same price for a green curry dish. You know, it takes a lot of effort to make the curry. You have to peel, pound (with mortar and pestle), stir-fry and (manually) squeeze the coconut milk. Don’t you think such intricate Thai dishes deserve more?’’
Refusing to use mass-manufactured ingredients, Bo and Dylan would drive near and far in search of good artisan food produce. Approximately 85% of the ingredients, especially the vegetables and meat, used at Bo.lan are either organically certified or from small local producers.
“Sustainability and slow food movement in Thailand has been active for decades. But it has garnered only slight attention until there there was the involvement of celebrities and big-name chefs. So I hope by winning the award it will help create more interest in the artisan food movement as it adds market value to Thai cuisine.’’
A new entry in the “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards” is Issaya Siamese Club by Chef Ian Kittichai. With his 18-month-old Thai restaurant ranking at No 31, the celebrity Thai Chef who runs more than 10 restaurants worldwide said, “To be recognised internationally is always precious to us and I’m glad Issaya is helping bringing shine a spotlight on Bangkok's restaurant scene.’’
Issaya is another great example of Thai food that’s as fashionable as it is delectable. The cuisine is a blend of home-comfort delicacies and street-side favourites creatively prepared in a modern gourmet style and enjoyed in an aesthetic setting of a century-old mansion.
As Vachon of San Pellegrino said, “It’s incredible and fascinating for the Western world to see what’s happening in Thailand. I would say it is one of the world’s most thriving gastronomic destinations. Since the industry in the West is kind of stable, Asia is still very dynamic and new talents keep emerging, there’s a good chance that in the near future restaurants in Asia, especially in Thailand, will reach the top of the world’s best list.’’
Banana Blossom Three Ways from Issaya Siamese Club.
