Adrian Costanzo may be Australian by birth, but Italian roots run thick in his blood — or in this case, thread. It comes as no surprise that the elegantly dressed 31-year-old has made his own clothes since the age of eight.
Master tailor Adrian Costanzo at Thailand’s first Brioni store.
It became a passion that found him a place among Italian luxury houses, where he worked with private clientèle, developing personal looks by creating made to measure garments, as well as obtaining a master’s degree from the Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Today he is on the top of the made to measure totem pole, as a master tailor at Brioni, an Italian high-end fashion house which specialises in customised suits. Also known as the “power suit” worn by presidents, Hollywood actors, sport stars and the ever-smooth James Bond, Brioni’s one-of-a-kind ensembles are handmade in Italy and carry a hefty price tag (from 200,000 up to 5 million baht), but are second to none regarding sartorial spectacularity.
No longer seen as clothing for stuffy old men, Brioni is the pinnacle of innovation and exclusivity, with suits — even winter ones — lighter than polyester, while others use fabrics with diamond chips or are made from the rarest and finest wools.
Life talks to this master tailor about his background, the world of high-profile clients and asks for advice regarding male couture.
Have you always enjoyed dressing up?
It’s always been a part of me. I’ve never really cared about trends, because when I wanted something, I’d just think, ‘Where can I get that in Australia?’ I’d want all these things I could never have, so I started making shirts, vests, trousers, and jackets. People would start asking me where I was getting my clothes. That’s how my menswear skills started out and got strong. Plus it was always good to have stuff that wasn’t mainstream when I was young. I felt right at home in Italy when I moved there when I was 23. I felt that I could pursue a career doing what I was doing, where there’s sartorial perfection and a rich, traditional culture, whereas in Australia I’m limited to few options. It’s modern, but it doesn’t have any roots.
What is your lifestyle like as a master tailor at Brioni?
It’s really busy. Twice a year after the fashion shows I’m usually flying around to visit clients in different countries for two and
a half months of each season. It’s very tight, and sometimes I’m in a country for no longer than two days, so it’s really important to have time with the clients, as it’s not every day that master tailors come to you from Italy. It’s a very exclusive service. Although we prefer the store because everything is there, we sometimes visit clients at their offices or houses due to their work commitments or public profiles.
How would you advise a man with no prior knowledge to choose a suit ?
One of the first points of education would be to ask a client if there is anything really specific they like about a fabric. By gaining little bits of information from clients, it lets you into their world. A general education about how a shoulder should fit helps and if something is creating a defect, let them have an insider’s look to how we’re fixing it. Most times, clients never see it that way before you point it out to them. You’ll also find these clients will be thanking you so much for the experience because now they feel like they’ve gained knowledge. They feel empowered themselves to know what they’re wearing isn’t a brand any more, but something they feel represents them. It’s a quiet luxury.
Do you like working one-on-one with high-profile people?
My previous experiences have given me the background to work with all sorts of personalities, as well as a basis to reach people on a personal level and make them calm. I don’t talk to them arrogantly, but as someone they are comfortable with and can trust. I feel that whether it’s a president or someone that comes in-store and is curious to make a made to measure suit, everything is the same. Personally speaking, I would not bow down to you just because you’re a celebrity and you have a name — for me, the service must be exceptional for everyone. It’s also a new age for us, where we’re trying to appeal to a fresher market, which makes me enjoy my job a lot more. It’s now the sons that are just getting into Brioni and are still learning to understand the fine craftsmanship of tailoring. I have fun with them presenting the options and giving suggestions because they are more open.
You’ve designed women’s haute couture before. Are women harder to work with than men?
I think it was true in the past, but men today are much more educated and specific to details — they know what they’re buying. They’re just as vain as women are. It’s not there any more where a man just walks in and he’s just like, just give me a suit. Women buy more in an emotional way, but men are buying performance and want to know exactly what they’re getting. They want to know the fabric, how it’s made, where it came from, so you really need to know your product.
Does it ever get boring working with male couture as opposed to women’s?
I think menswear to a certain point becomes more intellectual — it becomes about technique and construction. In some ways it’s easier to dress a woman and make her clothes — choose a fabric, mix and match some colours, wow, a pair of heels and you’re off. With menswear you have to be really careful, because your technique has to be really good or else it’s going to look bad. It can be seen as boring, but can also be seen as pushing the boundaries in the harder way. You’re more limited in menswear, so you have to think smarter. Still, you can still have fun with menswear and I’ve developed an intellectual brain in a creative way.
Not every man can afford a suit at Brioni. What’s the next best alternative?
What I would do is to afford what I can elsewhere, that’s still done in a personal way.
I’d get my clothes made and customised to me because that’s what made to measure is about, as opposed to going out to buy brands just because it’s a brand. I think the concept of it being something personal and unique is more important than where you’re buying it and how much it costs. Also, maybe you can’t afford a suit [at Brioni] but you can afford a tie, so you can mix things up a little. 2014 isn’t about total looks any more, it’s about styling and there’s nothing wrong with that, because you’re finding your own image.
- Visit Brioni at Gaysorn Plaza, ground floor. Open daily 10am-8pm.
- Call 02-656-1115.
