The trend for slimmer timepieces, according to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Alexis de Laporte, is related to the economic situation.
“Because of the economy, people may not want to wear big, bulky nor sparkling watches, and prefer low-key watches with a classic and elegant design,’’ said the managing director, who oversees the Southeast Asia and Australia region.
The brand’s 2014 collection showcases ultra-thin creations that were presented at the 24th Salon International de La Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva in end January. The new collection stars the chocolate-toned Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 (see box) and Hybris Mechanica 11, the latter with an impressive 7.9mm thin (including the crystal) model considering its 41mm diameter.
“It’s now a battle of the millimetres,’’ said de Laporte. “Grand Complications had a tendency to grow larger, but now we’re going back to something extremely thin such as the Hybris Mechanica 11, whose discreet proportion makes it easy to wear. ’’
Based in Switzerland’s Vallee de Joux, the prestigious Manufacture has been crafting fine watches since 1833. Its milestones included giving birth to the world’s thinnest pocket watch in 1907, and the heritage has been transferred to modern-day wristwatches,
“Our most complicated timepiece, Hybris Mechanica is made under one roof at the Manufacture, where we have accumulated a full range of 180 skills over 180 years,’’ he said. “With these skills, we can create a Grand Complication that brings together several classic complications in one watch. Almost everything is done in-house apart from the glass and the leather strap, the latter because we don’t have crocodiles here in the lake.’’
Featuring many patents, the eleventh model in the Hybris Mechanica collection is the first ultra-thin Grand Complication, also referred to as the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, which features an original tourbillon, a high-performance balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single pushbutton, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system.
“Classic tourbillon tend to obstruct the view of certain components,’’ noted de Laporte, “Ultra-thin horology demanded a novel tourbillon that allows the visibility of the heart of the watch.’’
The flying tourbillon ensures a full view of both balance-wheel and spring that may both be observed in motion from a radically different perspective. The gaze is captivated by the regular swinging of the balance-wheel, with the balance-spring fixed above it in a highly unusual stage-setting.
A minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, and striking timepieces challenge watchmakers to achieve the purest sound, the most regular melody, along with unfailing precision and reliability. Since 1870, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created over 200 different calibres equipped with repeater mechanisms.
The new minute repeater movement, however, was entirely rethought and rebuilt to be ultra-thin with a silent timelapse reduction system to eliminate a pause between striking the hours and minutes when there are no quarters to be struck. As a result, the appropriate high- and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo.
The effort to make the watch even slimmer while showcasing its aesthetic led to activating the minute repeater with the patented retractable single pushbutton. Actuating a discreet locking system at 8 o’clock brings out the pushbutton. Once the minute repeater is activated, the pushbutton returns to its initial recessed position, ensuring that nothing disturbs the elegant appearance of the watch.
Striking a balance between technology and tradition, the Hybris Mechanica 11 carries distinctive style nods to the brand’s historical pocket watches, such as the hour-markers, the traditional black transferred minute circle and the silver-toned grained finish.
Presented in a white gold case and an alligator leather strap, the limited edition Grand Complication is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362 with 45-hour power reserve.
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.
THE REVERSO MOVES FORWARD
A swivelling watch case was considered a technical feat back in 1931 when Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its iconic Reverso created following a request from British colonial army officers, who wanted a robust watch that they could wear when playing polo.
The watch with a reversible case then became popular among sportsmen while its aesthetic design appealed to fans, who over the years has seen it reappearing in a number of different guises, in various sizes and new horological complications, while remaining true to the design of the historic model.
The 80th anniversary of the historic model was marked by a slimmer Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, followed by the 2012 Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial, the 2013 Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue, and the 2014 Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolatey palette.
The colour of the watch face contrasts with the pink gold case and the traditional gadroons framing the dial, while the alligator leather strap elegantly matches the dial with its chestnut brown shade.
The new watch also boasts a second strap in cordovan leather handcrafted by Casa Fagliano, founded in 1892. Based in Buenos Aires, Casa Fagliano is a manufacturer of boots, knee pads, and accessories sought after by top polo players. The collaboration between the Swiss watchmaker and the Argentinian company reconnects Reverso with its sporting origins.
The clean design allows easy readability, with hours shown by the 12 o’clock numeral and baton-shaped markers while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once-a-minute rotation on a subdial, which has the Reverso inscription standing above it.
Within the 7.3mm case, the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 can still house the complex parts of the swivelling mechanism as well as a 2.95mm movement, handcrafted at the manufacturer in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux.
As well as the chocolate-toned timepiece, the Swiss watchmaker has launched Grande Reverso Night & Day, available in pink gold or stainless steel cases, with this model powered by an automatic movement.
The dial of the night/day indicator is divided along its centre by a horizontal line marking off the lower part of a guilloche motif, while linking numbers six and 18 so as to visually separate day and night hours. The dial is topped by a sapphire crystal and the case-back remains open for personalisation by engraving with initials, a monogram, or an evocation of a memorable event.
