In another good sign for the city’s maturing palate, regional variations are starting to grip. Japan is fiercely regional, after all, so to lump the bulky and noodle-lined okonomiyaki from Hiroshima with its Osakan or Okinawan counterparts, for example, would be a culinary crime. The latest instalment to widen our Japanese knowledge is Teriyaki Bar Kelly’s, a curious resto perched on a slightly mysterious empty block in the convenient pre-Thong Lor area. It feels like Beat Takeshi has walked into Bob’s Country Bunker in this competitor to the retro-rustic Imoya izakaya fave. Eclectic music selections and mis-matched light fittings complete the kooky urban barnyard mise-en-scene. Luckily it ducks the tired Sushi bar trend that has saturated Thong Lor, instead opting for a hybrid style of service with a distinct Nagoya bent. This is the second strong Nagoya representation of late following the cosy Hanakaruta sake den in Sukhumvit Soi 39. Most nighttime visitors to the soi don’t get much further than WTF or Opposite, but venture a little further in to find Kelly’s on the right. It seems that housewives take the early shift and salarymen later, true to cultural form. Inside, the timber and mish-mashed light fittings add to the charm and cosiness with space for around 35 diners.
Japanese THE MENU
Teriyaki Bar Kelly’s
Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight 46 Sukhumvit Soi 51 02-662-5155 fb.com/teriyakibarkellys
House made chicken liver pate (B180+) features generous scoops of the spread and crisped, thin baguette slices. It’s not too gamey, and a solid starter that welcomes an inter audience. Nagoya’s specialty wings mix plate (B145) is succulent finger-licking goodness and bang in line with Nagoya’s signature tebasaki — fried chicken served with sesame seeds and dressing. (Chickens are said to be free range and grain-fed). Grill masters choice (5/8 pieces, B315/B498) is a spread of yakitori offerings selected by the man over the coals. His excellent choices were all on point, particularly Chicken white meat (B68 if ordered separately) with a dab of zippy wasabi. Teppanyaki of seafood and vegetable (B245) is a sizzling plate of crisp-fresh veggies and seafood that is served with a light oyster sauce. After the super-succulent fried skewers, it was a dip in flavour, but made itself up with freshness and colour. On the drinks side of things, true to its izakaya leanings there’s a tap of creamy, chilled Asahi (385ml/pint B120/B170), as well as a long list of sake and shochu options (from B130), reasonably-priced spirits (from B130) and cocktails (B160). Just ask the staff.
INSIDER TIP
There are two cute booths at the far end — four people each — for a more cosy setting. And it’s a great place to practise your Japanese or Thai (ie. they don’t speak any English). Don’t be shocked by the B50 charge per head — it’s standard in Japan.
SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS
Their online presence is almost entirely in Japanese, sealing the authenticity of the place. But don’t be intimidated as the staff are friendly and attentive. Snap the chef behind the bar/counter as he works the grill.
VALUE & VERDICT
Diversity is a sign of a mature eating city, and Teriyaki Bar Kelly’s is indeed more than just a HQ of homesickness for far-flung Nagoyans. With its enthusiastic host, just the right amount of eccentricity, daggy soundtrack and reasonable prices, the word should spread beyond the Japanese expat community before too long. G
