Yum's the word

Yum's the word

Tucked in a tiny lot at the end of a Thong Lor soi, Gossip dishes out delicious Mediterranean-influenced Italian cuisine

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Yum's the word

Many call it a secret gem. I'd say it's an overlooked treasure, a gastronomic haven many fail to notice.

The mixed tapas platter of five gourmet canape treats.

Located at the end of Thong Lor Soi 13, Gossip has for the past two years been a favourite meeting spot among those in the know. The bar-centric dining establishment, owned and run by a small group of Bangkok's well-off young foodies, occupies a wee space at the back of the Oakwood Residence condominium. It's only a few steps away down the detoured soi from J Avenue shopping arcade, yet most people don't know of its existence. 

Mimicking its name, the place — both the dynamic bar area on the first floor and the warmly lit, classy dining room upstairs — has a snappy, secretive feel. 

Under the culinary direction of chef Julien Lavigne (formerly of Oskar Bistro and the Dusit Thani Hotel's D'Sens French restaurant), Gossip's cuisine is designed with an Italian inspiration.

Gossip's two-page food menu may seem small, but it is comprehensive. The 40-item selection presents classic Sicilian dishes influenced by Mediterranean flavours and global culinary beats. 

The mixed tapas platter, portioned for sharing among up to three diners (450 baht), is nice should you be looking for some tasty and stomach-filling munchies to go with your drink or start off your meal.

The neatly arranged plate of five canapé choices featured lightly battered and deep-fried calamari rings with paprika-lemon mayonnaise dip; bite-sized, balsamic-marinated tomato bruschetta; chicken liver pate with pickled shallots on toast; Italian-style cheesy rice balls with cream of tomato sauce; and house-marinated olives. 

If you're in for something clean, crunchy and naturally seasoned, the avocado & smokey corn salad (300 baht) promises "from plot to plate" satisfaction. It's a hearty compilation of grilled prawns, charred corn kernels, avocado wedges, fresh orange pulp, spinach and ribbons of carrots slightly dressed with pineapple white balsamic and dollops of spicy sour cream.

Fans of duck liver won't regret having foie gras & Nutella (530 baht). The two slabs of pan-seared foie gras tasted nice — though the interior texture was a bit too soft and gloopy — and was lent a brittle, nutty finish by the pistachio crust coating. The sauce, which came on the side, was a good mix of aged port wine and Nutella. The foie gras was also complemented by home-baked brioche bread, spinach salad and pistachio cream. 

All three main dishes we sampled were superb. The first, listed as butterfish with rich tomato (600 baht), presented a pan-seared fillet of butterfish on a bed of saffron risotto and green pea purée. The fish, seasoned only with salt and pepper, exhibited a firm and naturally flavoursome meat that intermingled nicely with the perfectly cooked risotto, while pickled fennel garnish helped add a bracing tang to the tasty dish, which needed no help from the tomato-raisin sauce served on the side. 

There were quite a few options of red meat dishes that sounded tempting, including grilled beef fillet with Tuscan-style sauce, Black Angus braised beef cheek with oxtail-stuffed cannoli and Wagyu rib-eye steak with white truffle polenta and Parmesan mushroom sauce. 

We opted for grilled saddle of lamb with rosemary crust (750 baht). Accompanied by thick and creamy celeriac purée, mini carrots and roasted garlic, the Australian lamb tenderloin was masterly charred to showcase a succulent quality that's perfectly enhanced with the tasty red wine reduction sauce.  

From a selection of pasta, the spicy sausage penne (320 baht) was an ideal treat for chilli-addicted palates. The al dente tube-shaped pasta was sautéed with garlic, roasted chilli and a generous helping of fresh Italian sausage, with sweet carrot purée to tone down the fieriness.

I was quite sceptical when the service staff suggested we have pavlova, the very sweet, meringue-based dessert (250 baht), to wrap up our meal. But when we took the first bite of the heftily portioned treat, dressed with fresh cream and seasonal fruits, we were pleasantly hooked by its delicate taste and texture.  

Though it's never a crime for food loons to waive having cocktails, I'd recommend they jump at the chance here.

From a list of signature concoctions, Aurulia, a blend of gin, limoncello, fresh apple and lime juice, shaken with basil and thyme (300 baht); Mangosteen & Elderflower, a fruity composite of freshly muddled mangosteen, gin, shochu, lychee liqueur, lemon, elderflower and grapefruit bitter topped with creamy espuma (270 baht); and Flower Filed spritzer, a frizzy blend of lychee, rose, lavender and Prosecco (320 baht) are truly worth sipping.

Service was prompt and lovely during our slow-hour weekday visit.

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