In January and July, Thai label Busardi was seen on the runways in the world's haute couture capital. It was a story that seemed new to the Western media: a mother and son team from the heart of Southeast Asia -- doing what they loved to do, to their best ability, in Paris. Their trade is, favourably, one that is steeped in a long familial tradition that can be traced back to Yoswadee, a long-standing fashion house that dressed prestigious figures and women in the government during the 50s and 60s.
Busardi fashion show at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel.
Taking some tricks from the predecessor label, while giving itself a new slate and DNA, it has taken the Busardi brand only two years to make it to Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week and become the very first Thai label to do so.
Back in Bangkok, the namesake designer Busardi Muntarbhorn and her son, Tuck, have just hosted a fashion show at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel's Monthathip Court. The square pathway, which surrounds a glassed interior garden Busardi designed back in 2003, was the runway for top-of-the-line models, from Pancake to Phitsinee, signalling that this was to be no small showcase. Models paced slowly down the square runway ominously, wearing spectacularly-detailed gowns that need to be seen in real life to be truly understood why they were considered worthy of showing in Paris.
The semi-couture clothes come with stunning lace appliqués and beautifully embroidered tulle, but it could be said that Busardi's successful international debut is all down to Tuck's single-handed grind. Apparently, what it takes to make it to the world's fashion spotlights is a lot of hard work, networking, big dreams and simply knowing a lot of people in the industry. It's a world the co-founder has immersed himself in, even stepping into the shoes of a journalist in order to learn the ropes of the fashion world.
As the founder of stylefan.net, Tuck has covered up to 350 shows at various fashion weeks around the world. This allowed him to rub all the right shoulders -- ones which eventually helped him bring Busardi to its first international debut at London Fashion Week in 2014.
Still, Tuck remarked, something about it didn't feel quite right, so the co-founder decided to take his mother's label to Paris in 2015, saying: "After two seasons, we felt the market wasn't really right for us. London only has a ready-to-wear schedule so we decided to do Paris Haute Couture. We felt it was more right, with the brand alignment being couture."
In leading international magazines, Busardi now finds itself listed alongside other power couture houses -- a triumph that marks a Thai brand's noteworthiness on the international stage.
"You can show in Paris, but to be really accepted and in the publications, your work has to be inspiring," confesses Tuck. "They buy into what we do, but there's an element of branding that is so strong within the powerful houses of the world. Of course, people will still be more fascinated by Dior and Chanel. I think we need to compete in terms of our craft and development of our branding even further to their level of branding."
Two seasons of couture shows later, Tuck has seen for himself that it can be difficult for a Thai brand to fare against others.
"Thailand is still seen as manufacturing country, not a design pioneer country," the 21-year-old explains. "We fit in a weaker position because with couture, it's a bit regional. It's bad that the Made In Thailand label isn't that prestigious, but when people finally come up to see the craft and really feel the pieces and the work behind it, they get it. But there are a lot of times that I send out images to press and buyers and they say, 'Oh, it's so expensive for a Thai brand made in Thailand', so it is tough from that perspective." It's a cost-intensive journey to make for anyone who would brave it -- for starters, models cost £800 (43,000 baht) a pop. Times that by 30 or so, according to however many outfits there are and the cost of that alone is enough to make one faint and never wake up. The energetic son wishes government support was available, but more importantly, sees dreaming big as the key to make or break.
"To keep dreaming and the belief system that you can do it is the key," he says. Besides Busardi, Tuck namedrops other Thai labels that made it abroad.
"Wonder Anatomie is doing very well with his accessories and his stuff is at Colette now," he notes. "It's sensational and so huge for a Thai designer to be stocked at Colette. The craft is unique in the world and not just in Thailand itself. I think accessories we can push. Ek Thongprasert too, who graduated from Antwerp and bears the Antwerp label. It really shows about people's perception when we bear the Made In Thailand label, but hey, I think we can definitely make it -- we just need to be savvy." And savvy indeed he is. Busardi is now back in Bangkok to court local clients, but Tuck already has his eyes on their next move.
"What we haven't done yet is celebrity and red carpet endorsements and such. Our clients really buy into that," he ponders. His stages in sight? Nothing less than the Grammys and Emmys, of course.
The Busardi Autumn/Winter 2015 "Queen of the Night" collection is available at the Busardi boutique, 1st floor, The Peninsula Plaza, Ratchadamri Road. Tel 02-254-9082.
