The man behind the songs

Just as the most splendid vista can seem incomplete without music to focus and enhance the mood, a Royal Barge Procession, magnificent as it is, is not complete without the chanting of boat songs.

Whenever the royal vessels travel, these songs are heard in the ringing timbre of Commodore Mongkol Saengsawang, who commands the Royal Thai Navy’s Small Craft Division. ‘‘My division supervises the use of small boats, and especially activities connected with royal ceremonies involving boats,’’ he said. ‘‘In 1996, during the celebrations to mark 50 years of His Majesty the King’s reign, a Royal Kathin Ceremony was held that included a Royal Barge Procession. That was when HM the King‘s Royal Barge Narayana Song Suban was used for the first time.

‘‘We knew in advance that this year a similar ceremony would take place, and we prepared for it. By the end of 1998 we had already checked all of the royal barges to make sure that they were in proper condition for use, and we made early arrangements for the supply of crews. ‘‘In February this year the Royal Thai Navy held a meeting to decide which units would row which vessels. ‘‘We took regular soldiers from each unit and made them practice until they had the procedure down. Before the event takes place the men must be drilled again, under close supervision.

‘‘Traditionally, men from the Small Craft Division must row the boat in which the King is seated. Our soldiers have prepared themselves for this well, and are completely ready. ‘‘As the division’s director, I have the responsibility of being in charge of the vessel, which is a great honour for me. ‘‘In the year 2001 I will retire, but when I met my commander he asked who would be chanting the boat songs. He didn’t want anyone else to do it, so we agreed that I will again do it, as I have in the past. That is fine. I am always ready to perform any duty for His Majesty.

‘‘There are four chants, sung at different times. The first is called the kroen-hay. This verse says that the beautiful boat is ready to begin moving. ‘‘The second, the chalawa-hay, is slow in tempo, and is heard when the boat is moving gradually away from the pier and the oarsmen are still rowing slowly, before the fun starts. It has a wonderful text that praises the King. ‘‘The third chant is the most fun. It is called moonla-hay and is about the magnificence of the procession of boats. ‘‘The oarsman have a good time because they really get into the rhythm of the song. During this period the boats pick up speed.

‘‘The words to the fourth chant are about merit-making, especially the presentation of kathin robes. It is sung as the boats are arriving at their destination. ‘‘The old tradition required the chanter to be in the King’s boat, seated in front of the monarch with his hands in a wai position, intoning verses to him in a quiet, soothing voice. ‘‘But today the singer travels in the Anantanagaraj barge, the one that carries the kathin robes.

He can’t sit in the King’s boat because he makes too much noise. Today we use modern technology. ‘‘In the boat where I sit there is a radio which transmits my voice to a receiver on the top of a high building, from where it is broadcast to the other boats, which are equipped with receivers and amplifiers. ‘‘This lets all the rowers hear the boat songs, while the royal barge in which the King is seated remains quiet. ‘‘All that is heard in the King’s boat is an occasional quiet exchange between the leader of the oarsmen and the oarsmen themselves. ‘‘After they’ve been quiet for a long time they’re allowed to raise their voices to release tension, but first the King must be asked for his permission, so that he knows it is coming. ‘‘It wouldn’t be good if everything was quiet for a long period and then everyone suddenly raised their voice at once.

The King would be startled. ‘‘Only the oarsmen in front take part in these exchanges. The ones in the back can’t because their voices would travel over the top of the King’s head, which is not permitted. ‘‘The verses sung on this occasion were composed by a naval officer, Commodore Thongyoi Saengsinchai, so it can be said that every aspect of this procession has been taken care of by the navy. ‘‘There are no official arrangements or standards applied in choosing the men who chant the boat songs. What’s important is you have to like to sing. And you should be able to sing all kinds of songs.

We navy men who are interested in boat songs get together in the evening to sing. Being a little drunk doesn’t hurt, although we’re not what you’d call real drunks. ‘‘You have to drink enough to loosen up and lose any inhibitions you have about really letting your voice cut loose. Then the sound of it is clear and there’s a ring to it. ‘’If any part of a song sounds wrong we do it over again until it’s right. It’s a part of Thai culture, so it has to be good . . . and it’s fun, too.’’