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LANNA LEGACY

This newly restored 140-year-old house in Chiang Mai is another hidden gem revealed

  • Published: 29/01/2009 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Horizons

What happens when a wooden house in Chiang Mai surges past that magical 100-year-old mark and beyond? In most cases, the house is either pulled down or left to crumble to its ruins. The one you see here, however, is one of the lucky few. It narrowly escaped that sorry fate, was restored, and has become a new attraction of the northern city.

Located on Charoen Prathet Road, right at the back of the famous Anusarn Market, the so-called "140-year-old Lanna Ancient House" built in 1867 was the home of a wealthy family that ran timber business in those days. In recent years, however, the house obscured from the prying eyes of the public had been left to fall apart until ownership of the plot of land it stands on changed hands. The row of shop buildings along the road, which used to block the old house from outsiders' view, was then demolished and restoration work began.

Together with a team of experts from Chiang Mai University's Preservation and Conservation Department, Kalae Night Bazaar, the company that runs the Anusarn Market and the present owner of the land, have successfully rescued this architectural gem as well as the part of Chiang Mai's history to which it is a testament.

Members of the public are allowed to walk around the house and appreciate it from the outside. However, those who wish to see the interior can ask for permission from the Anusarn Market Project by calling 053-818-340. However, for safety reason only a small group of no more than five persons is allowed to enter the house at a time.

This vintage photograph shows members of the family that once owned this property. The picture was not taken at this house though.

As you can see from these ‘before-and-after’ photographs, this particular wooden house was in a very sad condition before the restoration team stepped in. The house may now look more secure than it used to be in the previous years but the fact is it’s still not strong enough to accommodate a constant stream of visitors.

The back side of the ‘Huen Boran Roi Si Sip Pee’, as the old house is known in Thai, faces the Ping River. Over half a century ago, timber was transported along the river, and elephants were used to haul the logs. In those days, as you can see in the antique photo by Boonserm Sattrapai who is now 79, there used to be a number of other wooden mansions along the river bank. Other than this picture, several other works of the veteran photographer are also exhibited in the restored house.

Traditionalstyle roof tiles are bent on the top edge so they hook to the wood bars of the roof structure. Most of these tiles are original.

This long bar of wood serves as a door latch for the main bedroom. Lattice is used on the upper part of the room wall to allow air flow but at the same time maintain the privacy. And don’t tell anybody, there’s an attic concealed behind the tall ceiling of each room!

It’s true the house sits right next to the river but this well made it even more convenient for residents of the house to fetch water for daily consumption. This was before the advent of pipe water, of course.

In the old days, earthen water pots like this one was a common sight in Chiang Mai. Placed at the front of the house, people put drinking water in these pots for both guests and strangers to quench their thirst. However, with fear of Hepatitis B and other diseases, such practice is no longer popular.

Like in other parts of the Kingdom, people of the North take off their footwear before entering a house. To make sure the feet are really clean, there is even a water basin, like that one at the base of the stairs, for washing the feet.

The stair steps are firmly held in place with wooden wedges.

These two pieces of wood on the bedroom floor are actually the lid of a secret opening. In those days, there was no electricity and no toilet. A hole like this allowed children to answer the call of nature during the night without having to venture outside in the dark.

This baby bed is one of the two pieces of original furniture that remain in the house. The other is a four-pole adult bed placed in a larger room. The house has five rooms of different sizes, plus a kitchen and balconies.

At night the old house is beautifully lit up. But the security guard who watches over the wall-less property makes sure nobody gets too close to the house. The open ground, where the demolished shop houses used to stand, is now used as a car park.

This tall ‘window’ was probably a door. It might even have been the main entrance. This side of the house oversees the river, which was the major means of transportation before the arrival of modern roads and automobiles. Like old riverside homes throughout the Kingdom, the side of the house facing the road is now considered the ‘front’ part.

The living area has two levels of floor. This allows children to play on the lower level while grandpa and grandma can enjoy a peaceful nap on the upper level without being disturbed by the stomping of feet. To learn more about Lanna style houses, visit http://art-culture.chiangmai.ac.th/museum/


About the author

Writer: PONGPET MEKLOY

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  • Surasak

    Discussion 5 : 04/02/2009 at 08:32 AM5

    I visited this house on the Ping river in the winter of 2550. We only allow to view from the outside of the structure, we took some picture of the 140 years old house. That is how much we know then, thanks for all details and pictures above. It is awesome indeed!

  • K.D.J.Green

    Discussion 4 : 04/02/2009 at 12:32 AM4

    I am a builder in england and i work on many old buildings for british heratige .Well done it is so good to see craftsmen doing a good job on restoration.

  • yrainoi

    Discussion 3 : 03/02/2009 at 09:05 AM3

    I used to visit the more than 100-year Lanna style house like this in Chiangmai. It was a big house of the wealthy family who ran timber business in those days also.

    It was so sad that this house will be demolished shortly after my visit 'cause the owner has already sold land only to build the new modern condos. At that time, what I can do is taking picture to memorize the good old days.

  • Andrew

    Discussion 2 : 02/02/2009 at 08:15 PM2

    Nice to hear people love their coulture and save their old house.

  • Somboon

    Discussion 1 : 30/01/2009 at 11:30 PM1

    Pongpet,

    Well done! Thai heritage society should pay more attention to old buildings before they crumbling down. That is a well done job restoring the buildings to their original condition.

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