Time warp in Trang

I hadn't said a word to anyone in the restaurant, much less put in an order. I'd barely had time to get comfortable in my chair when the waiter rushed over and started plonking down stainless-steel dishes of steaming dim sum. Only when he'd covered most of the surface of the large table with food did he finally make eye contact. Would I like coffee or tea or something else to drink, he wanted to know.

 

Welcome to Trang, a sleepy coastal town in the far South where life is still lived at a leisurely pace and old habits die hard. Traditions like dim sum for breakfast - an all-you-can-devour affair in which your waiter ferries over every single sort the cook concocts and you pay later only for what you've consumed.

"As far as cuisine goes, I'm no longer that trusting," announced my companion, Yatimaphorn Vinothai. "I've tried numerous places but I still think that my hometown has the best to offer."

It might sound like an extravagant boast but since Yatimaphorn is the seasoned manager of a travel agency with branches all over the country, her claims about Trang's culinary excellence are not so easily dismissed.

"You can find a great selection of food here," she continued, "everything from dim sum, congee and noodles to spicy Thai stuff, Western dishes, cakes and other bakery items. It's all delicious and it's usually available from dawn till late at night."

I spent the best part of that day wandering around town with Yatimaphorn, sampling items off various menus, and found no reason to dispute her assertion. There seemed to be a restaurant on practically every street corner and the larger establishments had impressive selections - all kinds of noodle and roast-pork dishes, rice soups, khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice) and dim sum in all shapes and styles. Some places have developed specialties to titillate jaded tastebuds, dumplings stuffed with pork, prawns, crab, tofu and sometimes other less readily identifiable ingredients.

 

"Er ... excuse me, what's in this one?" I'm compelled to enquire at one point.

"Ah, that's deep-fried salted egg rolled in rice paper," the waiter explained. "Try dipping it in the sweet plum sauce; you'll love the contrast."

For a town of such modest size, Trang supports a disproportionate number of dim sum establishments. Nobody is quite sure why, but one theory is that it all began back in heyday of the tin-mining industry when tin merchants liked to conduct business in teashops around town. And since many were of Chinese origin, dim sum was the snack of choice.

Apart from the "buffet" style of restaurant where I'd had breakfast, Trang also boasts more expensive, a la carte places which serve freshly cooked dumplings and other delicacies in small bamboo steamers. Two of the most famous in these parts are Phong Ocha on Huai Yod Road and Ko Lan on Soi 9, Ratsada Road. Both seem to be thronged with hungry clients all day long.

Ratsada Road has become something of a mecca for local foodies, in fact, and besides dim sum joints this strip is home to trendy establishments offering Thai and Western cuisine plus several bakeries.

 

For a more nostalgic, retro experience, you may want to seek out a small bar on Koklo Road called Ran Tuay Kai, a place which takes its name from the deep ceramic bowls bearing a cock motif that were once a common sight in ethnic-Chinese noodle shops around the country. Apart from a collection of these, Rakkiat Nakhonphand has decorated his establishment with an eclectic assortment of items dating back to the 1970s and earlier - old clocks, fans, photos, movie posters, cigarette advertisements and soft-drink crates.

"Most of this stuff, I got from my regulars. They love my shop so much that they want to keep all their old things here," Rakkiat volunteered. "I once made the mistake of selling a few bits and pieces and one customer was furious with me for months afterwards!"

 

Another charming feature of Trang is the proliferation of atmospheric old teashops. Many also serve oliang (traditional Thai filter coffee) and prices are a fraction of those charged in fashionable franchises in Bangkok and other cities. Hidden away on Sai Ngarm Road is an interesting place called Ko Cheang's which stocks a wide selection of fragrant teas. But if you rub the owner up the wrong way you may be refused service.

"Some people rush in and expect to get a pot of excellent tea within minutes," complained Cheang Sae Bu. "I always refuse to serve anyone with an attitude like that. When people are in a hurry, they spoil my mood and I find it impossible to make a good brew.

"You need to take the time to appreciate quality tea. You have to pace yourself and wait for it to cool to the right temperature before taking a sip."

 

Cheang brought me a pot of black tea, then, unbidden, another of chamomile. He suggested I try an infusion of the aromatic yellow flowers after having sampled some of the delicately flavoured black tea. The beverages did indeed complement each other.

"The right amount of time and the right temperature, and you'll love it!" he declared, brooking no argument.

So I sat back, sipped more of the fragrant concoctions, thought about some of the tasty snacks and unforgettable repasts I'd had during my brief stay in Trang and luxuriated in a pace of life few of my frenetic compatriots ever get to appreciate.