BANGKOK ZOGZAG: SAO CHING CHA - TANAO ROAD
Time to swing
- Published: 28/05/2009 at 12:00 AM
- Newspaper section: Horizons
Like the Grand Palace, the area home to the twin towers of Sao Ching Cha, or the Giant Swing, can lay claim to a slice of history rich and old as Bangkok, because ever since the first Chakri monarch moved his capital here, it's been the spiritual hub of the city.
Ask the average man and he'd tell you that for nearly 230 years the Giant Swing has been the single most visible landmark in the city. It was a point of congregation in the old days, and a symbol of Brahmin values and influence that permeate every level of Thai society. Even today few royal rites are performed without a Brahmin priest in attendance.
That fount of this faith is the Devasthan Bosth Brahmana, or the Brahmin Temple, situated near the Giant Swing. Priests in residence there deem the swing as crucial for performing religious rites or for leaders presiding over matters of the state.
The area around the temple and the Giant Swing changed much, but that is confined to the physical landscape that came with construction of new roads and shophouses, but little in terms of spirit or aura of faith associated with it.
Bamrung Muang Road that runs south of the Giant Swing is among the first three concrete roads to be built in Bangkok, using Western know-how complete with drainage pipes, and rudiments of a sewer system that would arrive much later.
Its construction spawned remarkable changes in Bangkok that for 140 years before was given the tag "Venice of the East" with its crisscrossing network of canals.
Between the Giant Swing and Grand Palace is Sam Preang, Bangkok's very first business district. Sam Praeng means three-way junction. It supported a cluster of small communities comprising of shophouses built in Western style, called Praeng Sappasat, Praeng Puthorn and Praeng Nara, each taking their name from a prince - Prince Sappasat Suppakij, Prince Putharat Thamrongsak and Prince Narathip Prapanpong, respectively.
Shops opening there were attracted by high-spending profile of the nobility and members of the royalty who had built their mansions in the vicinity, apparently making the area around the Giant Swing the very first fashion mecca of Bangkok.
All that has changed, its glorious past well behind. Those elegant royal mansions are gone while the shops that once sold in-trend goods are now dilapidated and old. Even residential buildings show their age. The district is still busy, overcrowded, packed with cars parked with long clothlines hanging from virtually every window.
But having said that, the district reeks of old-world charms of early Bangkok. Stroll down Tanao Road to Sam Praeng today and you will be amazed by the great variety of delicious cuisine awaiting to be sampled, made from recipes from royal kitchens passed down the generations.
Click here to see other panoramas: panorama 1 | Panorama 2 |
The Giant Swing is a Bangkok icon. Since the founding of the city in 1782, the swing was the scene of the annual Brahmin rite, Tri-yampawai. However, the rite was last performed in 1933. The swing was given a major facelift in 2007.
Wat Mahannapharam built over a century ago is a fine blending of Thai and Chinese art, mirroring the great influence Chinese culture wielded on Siamese people at the time. The temple houses a gold statue of ‘Luang Por Pra Ruang’ from the Sukhothai period. People living nearby like to come here to make a wish. And when it comes true, they come back offering the statue a ‘takraw’ ratten ball or kite in return.
Wat Suthat is a Buddhist temple reputed to have the best layout and longest ubosoth (72.25 metres) in Thailand. The elegant temple is surrounded with 156 Buddha images sourced from various corners of the kingdom. Construction of Wat Suthat began during the reign of King Rama I and was completed 40 years later in the reign of King Rama III.
At the beginning of Praeng Sappasart Road, there is an elegant gate, a relic from the old days. It is the entrance to what once used to be the mansion of a former prince, Sappasat Suppakij.
Devasthan Bosth Brahmana is a Brahmin temple as old as Bangkok. The temple houses statues of Hindu gods namely Shiva, Ganesh and Narai. One of Ganesh’s statues enshrined there is from the 6th Century, probably the oldest Ganesh statue in Southeast Asia. If you visit the temple on Thursday or Sunday, you may get a chance to chat with Brahmin priests.
Do not be surprised if you see luxury cars blocking Tanao Road. Kor Panich is a tiny shop which has been selling sticky rice for 75 years and quality of its sticky rice, whose recipe came from the royal kitchen, is proven by its customers’ loyalty. To make it, the shop uses the best ingredient: sticky rice from Chiang Rai, coconut from Chumphorn, and sugar from Kanchanaburi.
The bridge at the beginning of Bamrung Muang Road has a unique name—Sapan Chang Rong Si—or the Elephant Bridge at Rice Mill, proof enough that elephants once freely roamed this patch of the city. In the past elephants were main mode of travel. About 15 bridges were built in Bangkok around the time. This one was built in the Year of the Dog. That’s why it is decorated with the head of a dog.
The only remaining feature since heyday of the area around Praeng Nara is Talaphat Suksa School, formerly a theatre in the mansion of Prince Narathip Prapanpong. The mansion some point in time gave way to this road and shophouses. One legacy from the time is ‘khanom buang’, a traditional sweet whose recipe is believed to have come from a chef in the royal kitchen.
Every Chinese New Year, people come to pay homage to Tiger God from all over Bangkok, particularly those born in the ‘Year of the Tiger’. They come with offerings of pork meat, raw eggs and sticky rice and pray for good business and a prosperous year. On the particular day, some of them offer the Tiger God peanuts molded in the shape of a tiger, albiet a small one. If you see them, you know they are wishing for children.
Praeng Phutorn Road once was the site of mansion of Prince Putharat Thamrongsak. It is a pity there is nothing left to indicate of presence today. However, there are a number of yummy restaurants around here. Chotechitr Restaurant, opening 80 years ago, is among the oldest restaurants in the area. Nearby is Seree Restaurant offering mouth watering food.
All Bangkok Zogzag articles
- SAO CHING CHA - TANAO ROAD
- THA TIAN - THA PHRA CHAN - WANG LANG
- SUAN LUANG - SAM YAN - SAPHAN LUENG
- YAOWARAT - PHAHURA
About the author
- Writer: PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT
