A holiday onboard a luxury sleeper train doesn't sound like a trip for everyone, especially when you don't consider yourself well-heeled, slow-life or highfalutin', and when the train is a true legend and its service considered worldwide as top-notch.
Recently I, as a food columnist, was invited to join a 4-day-3-night gastronomic-forward trip from Bangkok to Singapore aboard the Eastern and Oriental Express (E&O), Southeast Asia's only full-blooded luxury locomotive.
Was I excited? Certainly. As much as I was intimidated by the fact that I was to travel alone among a flamboyant crowd of wealthy families and couples. Well, worst case would be that I just hide in my private cabin and pop out only at meal times and when the train arrives at its destinations.
Damn my pessimistic, unfair imagination. I am now finding myself lingering on memories of en route friendship and joy that nicely added unique charm to the already-special journey.
Traditional Malaysian dance show, another entertainment aboard the train.
The trip was a part of a new series of pop-up culinary collaborations between the E&O and an international selection of celebrity chefs and restaurant icons who will be onboard as co-host chefs to present their culinary finesse.
Out of the E&O's approximately 32 trips that either embark upon or disembark from Bangkok yearly -- between the months of September and April -- only four are hosted by famous guest chefs.
My trip featured chef Ian Kittichai, Thailand's most familiar-faced cooking wizard, who, in addition to being a TV personality, leads the culinary direction of many dining establishments, both in the kingdom and overseas, including the Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah Bottling Trust in Bangkok, and the Spot Dessert Bar in New York. His next showcase onboard E&O will be in November.
The journey, which listed Bangkok, River Kwai, Kuala Kangsar and Singapore as its port cities, began in late afternoon at Hua Lamphong station.
Passengers (in casual attire, and without dashing make-up or fancy hats as I had wildly pictured) gathered at the E&O lounge for the check-in process. All were then escorted to the platform, enlivened by an exclusive welcoming performance by traditional Thai dancers as the 17-carriage iconic green-and-gold locomotive gracefully awaited.
There are four types of accommodation onboard: a 5m² single cabin, a 5.8m² cabin with bunk beds, 7.8m² cabin with two single beds, and 11.6m² presidential cabin with two single beds.
My refuge for three nights was the 7.8m² cabin assigned for sole occupancy. The very attractive, well-appointed, fully air-conditioned room has an en suite hot water shower and toilet with a complete selection of first-class amenities. One of the two daytime seats in the cabin was to be converted to a cosy bed at night.
The train boasted four F&B establishments: a saloon, a fine-dining restaurant, a piano bar and a semi-open-air Burmese teak-lined observation car, equipped also with a full-scale drinks bar.
Every corner of the train provided evidence of fine craftsmanship and 5-star upkeep. The setting blended high-blown elegance with practicality and homelike warmth.
Yet, of course, the E&O didn't build its legacy on only luxurious facilities but also on impeccable service done with a very thoughtful personalised touch.
Celebrity guest chef Ian Kittichai.
Passengers in each private cabin were attended to by a personal steward neatly clad in a classic Western-style uniform. Most of them have worked on the train for more than 10 years and were devoted to ensuring that the guests enjoy every minute of the journey.
Each morning, at a pre-arranged time, Khun Gai, my cabin steward, would be right in front of my door with an intercontinental breakfast and piping-hot, aromatic coffee.
He also brought to my lounging bed in the afternoon a platter of warm pastries and savoury finger food complemented by a hot pot of tea.
Table d'hote-styled lunch and dinner were served in the restaurant or the saloon, to which Khun Gai took care of the daily reservations for me.
In booking my seat at the dining table, the E&O's maitre d'hotel and service staff suggested dining companions. They did an excellent job.
For me, a fanciful meal along an extraordinary journey proved among the easiest and most enjoyable moments of friendship-making.
Dinners, for which male guests had to come in black tie and the women in evening dress, introduced to me a very sweet European couple, two adventurous Aussie grandmas and a chummy American journalist.
Enhancing the impromptu socialising were full-course meals, prepared and served to a 5-star standard with prime-grade ingredients -- both locally sourced and imported.
Normally, the whole gastronomic affair was curated by the train's award-winning French executive chef Yannis Martineau. But with a guest chef onboard, my trip also benefited from chef Ian's vibrant signature creations that focused more on the eccentricity of local flavours.
All meals were included in the travelling fare but alcoholic drinks cost extra. Guests' special dietary requirement can be discussed with the culinary team well before the trip.
The private cabin, equipped with bathroom and 5-star amenities.
Destination-wise, passengers had an opportunity to get off the train for a short excursion on day two when the train made a stop at Kanchanaburi's historic River Kwai Bridge station.
Options for off-board activities included a classic tour to local landmarks, an hour-long bicycle tour and a trip to a fresh-market and artisan food shops. The latter I took.
Our food-fervent group was led by chef Ian and a local guide.
My fellow group members, mostly Westerners, were astounded by the market's abundant display of strange-looking river fish, edible amphibians and rare choices of meat (Kanchanaburi province is well-known for its wide array of jungle meat), as well as vividly colourful piles of tropical fruits, vegetables and spices.
Meanwhile, local shopkeepers and townfolk were thrilled coming face-to-face with the country's big-time celebrity chef.
In Kanchanaburi, we had a quick chance to go on a river raft, where the F&B team arranged for us a Thai-cuisine cooking class. We also got to visit Don Rak War cemetery, where 6,982 prisoners of war who died during the construction of the Thailand-Burma railway were buried.
Those who shun tropical heat can enjoy the (rather-limited) scenery from the train windows while the vehicle is rolls at an average speed of 60kph.
But, should the infinite panorama of lush green rice fields and nondescript forest lines not be your style of visual sensation, I recommend that you bring a few good books.
The nightly schedule of cultural performances, from traditional dance and music to sweet dexterous tunes by the train's resident pianist, helped enliven the slow-paced journey.
The train was under round-the-clock supervision by French general manager Valentin Waldman. The young and affable GM seemed to know each and every one of his passenger guests by name and handled unexpected incidents with flawless professionalism.
Of course, every journey has a bumpy ride. This one was no exception. But difficulties made me deeply appreciate the profound capability of those who handled it.
On the last evening of the trip, and as our train was approaching Kuala Lumpur, there was a derailed cargo train a few towns ahead of us.
We were supposed to arrive at Singapore Woodland station, our final destination, at noon the next day. If the Malaysian railway authority could not clear the blockage in time, it would mean we could go no further -- and our train had to stop somewhere soon.
I didn't know whether the other passengers were aware of this unfortunate incident. But no one seemed disheartened by the unknown future of our itinerary. And that night, instead of being on the move, the train made an overnight park in a small Malaysian town.
We were notified first thing in the morning that we had to leave the train in Malaysia. At the same time, each of the passengers was handed a plane ticket from Malaysia's capital city to Singapore. The arrival time to Singapore airport was early in the afternoon, just a little behind our normal schedule.
And two big buses, with E&O representatives, had already been waiting to take us on the road to Kuala Lumpur International Airport.
It was not only smooth and efficient crisis management -- for an interruption that wasn't even their fault -- but an act of unforeseen generosity, given that they paid for the air fare.
One of the Aussie grandmas happily announced during the unruffled bus ride that last night was her most comfortable night's sleep, without those jiggles and clanking noises from the train's rolling wheels.
Although the journey ended unexpectedly at the airport, and not a romantic train station, the farewell vibe was memorable and touching. My impromptu travelling companions and me promised to keep in touch. I now hope some of them get to read this little travel memoir of mine.
For full details on the Eastern and Oriental Express journey, visit www.belmond.com/eastern-and-oriental-express or call for reservations at 001-800-8392-3500.
A welcoming Thai dance at the platform by little performers.
Tropical breeze is enjoyed on the teak-lined observation car at the end of the 17-carriage iconic green-and-gold locomotive.
A market tour is one of the excursions available.
The lavish restaurant car.
Some of the dishes served aboard the Bangkok-Singapore trip.
