Nothing lasts forever. But no less true is the fact that certain things do last longer than expected. The peaceful and simple lifestyle of the rural communities on Koh Sukon of Trang province is an amazing case in point.
The southern island is also known as Koh Mu. "Koh", of course, translates as "island", while both "sukon" and "mu" mean pig. One explanation is that in the past the island was home to wild boars. Ironically, the majority of the islanders believe in Islam. But what's in a name? None of the friendly Muslim villagers seemed to be bothered by the names of the island they call home.
I recently returned to Koh Sukon. It had been almost a decade-and-a-half since the first visit. That's quite a long period of time, during which many places across Thailand, my own suburban neighbourhood included, have been transformed beyond recognition. I was curious to know how different this inhabited island just 3km off the coast has become.
To my delighted surprise, Koh Sukon has not changed much, except for the fact that the main village, the one with the ferry pier, has expanded a bit. I found more houses on the edge of the community but saw no big restaurants or bars which are a common sight on many islands, just small family-run shops and stalls offering home-made goodies at surprisingly low prices. A plate of chicken biryani, for example, costs only 20 baht.
On the island, thievery or other crimes seemed non-existent. I saw many motorcycles parked on the roadside with the keys left in the ignition switch. My homestay in the village was an unfenced one-storey house with a porch right next to the village road. The open porch was furnished with a table, a couple of chairs and, guess what, a refrigerator. Although that looked weird to me, I was sure I could leave ice cream in the fridge the entire night without worrying that it would be stolen.
Like on the previous visit, I again explored Koh Sukon by bicycle. This time with friends from the Ride Explorer group. Actually, the island has a saleng taxi service using motorcycles fitted with a sidecar for passengers. But as bike addicts, we just couldn't miss the opportunity to cycle.
From our homestay, we biked to the scenic lookout point near the eastern tip of the elongated island. It was a tough ascent for me but once we reached the top, the view was worth the effort. From the north-facing viewpoint, we could see the mountains and mangroves of Palian district. Too bad it wasn't a low tide, otherwise we would also have seen the long sand dunes, known as the "Dragon's Spine", emerging from the waters between the island and the mainland.
Before we left the spot we tried to climb the nearby red cliff just for fun. As you can see in the photo, it was very technical -- steep, narrow and the surface was nothing but loose rocks. We didn't make it but at least we got some nice pictures to fool friends.
From there we continued along the shore, dropping by a rocky beach before riding back to the village. One evening of biking was obviously not enough, and we planned to check out more beaches and farmland in the western part of the island the next morning. Unfortunately, it rained heavily through the first half of the day. We boarded the ferry and headed back to the shore as soon as the rain stopped.
Judging from what I saw in Google Map's satellite images, the west side of Koh Sukon hasn't changed much, either. I was also told by the villagers that water buffaloes and goats are still a common sight in that area. Let's hope that the island and its laid-back communities will continue to be able to resist the tide of change in the years to come. Visitors, like us, could also help by not bringing onto the island alcoholic drinks or food, or engage in behaviour that's against the locals' Islamic beliefs.
Well, see you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post’s travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
Koh Sukon, Trang
GPS co-ordinates (Ta Sae Pier): 7°08’58.29” N 99°35’19.90” E
Trail condition: Narrow roads with virtually no traffic.
Distance: Up to you. The elongated-shape island measures less than 8.5km from one end to the other. But the combined distance of all its roads is much longer.
Getting there: Ferries to Koh Sukon are available from the pier at a cape called Laem Ta Sae, about 57km south of Trang city. The fare for the 20-minute boat ride is 30 baht for an adult and 30 baht for a child.
Parking: You have to leave your car on the mainland.
Food & drinks: Small shops are available in the main village. If you visit Koh Sukon in March or April, don’t miss the island’s famous watermelon.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: The natural beauty of the island and the slow-paced lifestyles of the locals.
Accommodation: A couple of resorts are available. Some families offer homestay.
Local contacts: For homestay and other information, call 089-723-6129, 083-295-0759 or 081-535-1497.
