The sweet sounds of Thailand

The sweet sounds of Thailand

sonorous Buddhist merit-making ceremonies remain an enduring tradition in most of the Kingdom, even as they disappear from Bangkok

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
The sweet sounds of Thailand
Classical Thai instruments were seen in merit-making events in the past. Photos: Suthon Sukphisit

A dramatic story of loud bell ringing at a temple in Bangkok's Bang Kholaem district reported earlier this month is a reminder that man-made noises are closely associated with Thai culture. Noises are made for a reason regardless of form. Noises surround Thai people despite changes in society and the environment.

First of all, it is necessary to understand that Buddhist belief is deeply rooted in Thai culture. The temple is a place to perform religious activities. Different rooms like the main hall, or vihara, sermon hall in a monastery, scripture hall, belfry and monk residences all have their own associated functions.

The belfry -- or bell tower -- is used by monks to signal time, hearkening back to the days when there were no clocks in houses. Bell ringing is a sign that people and the monk should be prepared for chanting.

Usually, the bell rings around 5am as a wake-up call for monks to go chanting and receive alms. It is also the wake-up call for local people to get up and prepare food for monks.

The bell rings again at 5pm, calling monks to enter the main hall for chanting. This original practice continues to the present day.

Complaints by a resident living in a condominium near Wat Sai in Bangkok's Bang Kholaem district asking the temple to tone down the ringing of its bells in the early morning sparked a debate. Photo: Pawat Laopaisarntaksin

The sounds of Thai classical music also is common, especially during special occasions and ceremonies. Around a century ago, in the central region, all merit-making events such as house blessings, birthdays, weddings or ordinations usually had a Thai classical music performance. The performance would start at 5am, telling everyone that the celebration was beginning.

A temporary kitchen would be set up with many cooks helping to prepare food for monks and guests. That and the loud music would alert neighbours that the ceremony was beginning. People often would cook their own food to bring to the host's event. Back then, these noises were enduring and welcomed as the sweet sounds of Thai classical musical would be heard during special occasions only.

At dawn, after the monks arrived at a house for the merit-making ceremony, the music would stop so that the chanting could begin. The music started again during mealtime. Villagers put food inside the monks' alms bowl, which was for lunch. Food for participants was served later after the monks finished their meals.

Later, the musical sounds evolved and people started using amplifiers. Some played music from cassette tapes sung by well-known singers at that time. This cost a lot less than hiring a classical music band to perform, making these bands disappear from events around 40 to 50 years ago.

The power of the amplifier has developed considerably, enabling sound to be heard from afar. People standing 3km away from the spot can also hear the music from the amplifier, for example. The CD then replaced the cassette tape. However, the music still stops when monks arrive at the scene.

After chanting, villagers place food inside the alms bowl. Rice would be placed in precious and beautiful containers such as a silver or shining brass bowl. These bowls would then be placed in a beautifully hand-woven wicker basket.

The way people arrange a banquet for guests has changed. Now hosts usually provide a food banquet from restaurants for the guests, instead of preparing the food themselves. Food is served on a table with 10 seats. There is usually no music in order to create a more peaceful atmosphere.

This form of noise is rooted in Thai culture although these sounds are hard to find in Bangkok. Noises of today may be louder than those in the past but are no problem as they are part of a fair, an event or a merit-making ceremony -- an integral part of the society where people respect each other. Noises might change in terms of source or carrier but they will never disappear from Thai culture.

A temporary kitchen for the merit-making event, which is rarely seen now. Suthon Sukphisit

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