Despite reports warning of tropical storm Podul, my plan to visit Lan Chom Dao, one of Phetchabun province's most scenic camping grounds, at the end of August remained unchanged. Postponing the trip was out of the question, I already had fixed plans for the following weeks. Besides, with a deadline to meet, I couldn't let a storm, not even a typhoon, stop me. It turned out I made the right decision.
Lan Chom Dao is part of Tat Mok National Park, which in turn is part of a forest complex made up of several adjoining protected forests. Except for the west side where its hilltop camping ground overlooks farms and villages on the lowland, Tat Mok's immediate neighbours include Nam Nao National Park and three wildlife sanctuaries.
The park also has a namesake waterfall. Allow me to use this opportunity to clear some possible confusion. If you have been to Pai in the northern province of Mae Hong Son, you probably have visited Namtok Tat Mok, which is a popular stop on the way. Well, Phetchabun has its own Namtok Tat Mok, too. But the falls were not the purpose of this trip. It's not open to visitors until the rainy season is over.
When my two friends and I arrived at Lan Chom Dao, the afternoon sky was clear. The camping area is made up of two parts, the main zone and the smaller section on the south side where the rest rooms are located. We chose the latter because it's more convenient to be close to the water source and we didn't want to disturb the lovers who pitched their tent in that zone before us. It's not every day that you get to be alone with your loved one in the wilderness.
Rain often means traffic jams and trouble when you're in the city. But when you're in the embrace of Mother Nature, it brings a serene and refreshing beauty.
Another important reason was that on this side there is a pavilion that would keep us dry should the storm hit during the night. I fastened my hammock to the pavilion's pillars. My friends also pitched their tents under the roof.
Soon after a mellow sunset, the sky and the surroundings turned dark. In the meantime, villagers on the lowlands turned on lights in their homes. From Lan Chom Dao's vantage point, they look like the reflection of a starry sky. Obviously, the name Lan Chom Dao, which means "the ground for appreciating stars", refers not only to the celestial ones but those lights on the ground as well.
Floating on the surface of rainwater that filled a jar, and slowly, but constantly, moving around when touched by the breeze, this butterfly, whose decaying wings no longer flutter, seems as if it's still alive and flying.
I had a deep sleep so I didn't know how hard it rained during the latter half of the night. But when I woke up in the morning it was still showering lightly. The forest was lush and very much alive, although much of the canopy was covered by dense fog. The mountain breeze occasionally brought sprays of raindrops into our pavilion but it felt like refreshing holy water rather than a nuisance. We had a simple, yet unforgettable, breakfast, thanks to the great vista that many 5-star hotels would envy.
With easy road access, Lan Chom Dao is a site I highly recommend for family outings. And now is a good time to visit. There is no need to wait until the cool season when your chance to have the entire place to yourself like this is slim.
Located on a hilltop, Lan Chom Dao camping area offers serene vistas. The south side of the grounds, where my friends and I camped, overlooks farmland and communities on the lower ground. The saturated rain clouds, in my opinion, makes the scenery even more mesmerising. That night, understandably, the sky was obscured. However, starlike lights from the roads and villages down below, which I could appreciate from my hammock, make the scenery one of the most memorable bedtime views for me.
Lan Chom Dao may not be the best-equipped camping ground but at least it has ample showers and toilets, including one that is wheelchair friendly. With a huge water storage tank, campers are unlikely to face a water shortage. During my stay, no ranger was stationed at the site. But visitors can make comments or file complaints any time via a QR code prominently displayed on a wooden sign. On our way out of the park, my friends and I found the road was blocked by a fallen tree, a result of the windy night. Soon after I phoned the park's office, eight men and a big truck arrived at the site and the obstacle was cleared within minutes.
Apart from the camping ground, Tat Mok National Park also has bungalows for overnighters who opt for better comfort. While waiting for the park workers to clear the fallen tree off the road we took shelter in the veranda of one of the unoccupied bungalows. The view from here, I must say, was no match to the vista we enjoyed at the camping site further uphill.
Sap Chomphu Arboretum was an exciting find for me. The word arboretum makes the place sound boring but apart from learning about plants from fresh and dried specimens, here you can also enjoy three waterfalls and a fossil site (chunks of rock with seashell fossils are on display in the modest exhibition area). Unfortunately, on the day of my visit a tropical storm hit many parts of the Kingdom. To minimise risk of injury or death, the trails to those attractions were closed. According to a local resident, this month is supposed to be the time when the three waterfalls are at their peak. After October, there may be less water on the cascades.
Khao Rang is a mountainous area that separates Phetchabun's Muang and Chon Daen's districts, the latter borders with Thap Khlo district of Phichit province. Road 113 which snakes through Khao Rang is, therefore, an important link between the two provinces. On Khao Rang, there are at least two scenic lookout points, one is right next to the road, about 300m west of the shrine of Chao Pho Khao Rang, the guardian spirit of the area, the other can be reached via the short trail behind the shrine. I checked out the first but all I could see was thick fog. Hence there was no point walking to the other site. Hopefully, next time I come the weather will be better.
On the access road to Tat Mok National Park, you'll find Wat Tham Nam Bang, which got its name from this cave within its compound. Actually, there are more chambers than the one shown in this picture but unlike on my previous visit many years ago, I found that the place was not so well taken care of. You are required to remove your shoes before entering the cave, whose floor was full of bat droppings, so much so I felt like leaving rather than venturing to deeper parts.
TRAVEL INFO
Phetchabun's Tat Mok National Park is about 350km north of Bangkok, and 30km east of the provincial capital. If you travel from Bangkok, the access road is on the right-hand side less than 4km before the Wang Chomphu Junction where Highway 21 is joined by the east end of Road 113. There is no regular public transportation to the park so you need to have a private vehicle. No shop is available at the camping area. Make sure you bring enough supplies. For inquiries, visit Tat Mok National Park page on Facebook or call 088-278-7108.
Sap Chomphu Arboretum is almost 8km off Highway 21, from the Ban Phot three-way junction, which in turn is 11km north of the better known Bung Samphan intersection. To contact the arboretum, you need to do it via the 056-711-446. However, for now, it's easier to just go there than to try to make the phone call.
