The chefs at Embassy Room (level 10, Park Hyatt Bangkok) have unveiled their latest menu revamp that as ever epitomises the haute modern European culinary school.
Settling for nothing less than authentic, sustainable, fresh, and hand-selected organic produce sourced in-season and as far as possible locally, Chef de Cuisine Pierre Tavernier, Pastry Chef Kevin Lee and on-fire team, have curated another palate-pampering selection.
Keeping it tight with eight ‘to start’, nine main courses, and six side dishes, firmly rooted in the great French culinary tradition does not preclude appropriating “foreign” flavours that slot in seamlessly.
Among the starters, Tiger Prawn Pomelo Salad coconut and peanuts (530) is Pierre’s interpretation of his favourite Thai salad, here turned into a tartar using meaty tiger prawns sourced in southern Thailand, mated with pomelo, bound with a French interpretation of the typical Thai dressing topped with Taj kisses of tom kha gai gel.
Similarly Asian-tilted is Mud Crab, Green Apple & Ginger, Avocado & Madras Curry (720); lean chunks of steamed mud crab with a mildly spicy tang.
Both are scrumptious.
Or start with Pierre’s intensely rich Canadian Lobster Bisque, Tarragon Cream (1,650), the secret of which is to only use lobster shells for the stock. With a dab of dairy cream and sprinkles of fresh tarragon and dill, it’s ravishingly rich.
From further afield, though still sustainable, is Scottish Salmon, Celeriac & Beetroot, Radish & Cider Vinegar Reduction (750). Beneath the crispy skin, the salmon is soft and flavourful, juxtaposing delectably with the caramelly cider vinegar reduction. Goes down even better with a side of truffle mashed potatoes (190).
Equally delectable is Organic Chicken Breast, Tagliatelle & Morel Cream Sauce (680) using free-range big bird Benja chicken from Thailand’s north.
Braised wagyu beef cheeks with mashed potato and snap peas (810), served piping hot in its cast-iron braising dish, is Pierre’s mother’s and grandmother’s recipe refined. The cheeks are marinated in good red wine and stock then braised around eight hours in more red wine and jus.
“We respect the recipes and don’t add frills for the sake of them,” sums up Pierre. “It’s all about keeping to the basics and doing it well.”
Kudos to Kevin, too. His desserts are always to-die-for and, among them Mille-feuille, Madagascar Vanilla with the crunch of brittle and stickiness of caramel added to the paper-thin buttery pastry and insanely creamy marscapone cheesy filling is no exception.
Two- and three-course (990/1,190) business lunches are available with three choices each of starter, main, and dessert. Plus a 5-course tasting menu at 1950 during dinner time.
There are also gluten free, vegetarian and vegan choices, from mixed quinoa, pomegranate & nuts (180) to carnaroli risotto, shimeji mushroom & vegan truffle cheese (650).
Named in a nod to the now no more British embassy, the restaurant is reached along a sweeping walkway from the hotel’s designer lobby. As the dramatic architecture flows in curves, one side is bounded by a soaring window overlooking the infinity-edge pool and garden dramatically framing concrete canyons.
One savours the flavours in a low-key ambiance anchored in a culinary laboratory where white jacket chefs craft each dish in live culinary theatre. Marble and cotton in ornately textured earth tones dominate the scene, along with original Chatchai Puipia (National Artist) artworks.
Choose the two-tier main dining room or be seated in a semi-private dining space. All complemented with a sun-lit ambience and calming views.
Open for lunch 12:00-02:30 p.m. and dinner 06:00-10:00 p.m.
Reservations tel 02 011 7430, email bkkph.fb.reservation@hyatt.com or parkhyattbangkok.com.
