Winter is the most magical time of year in Bangkok, nowhere more so than down by the river. Lights twinkle atop stupas, the cool breeze returns, and a festive feeling permeates the air.
The grande dame of the Chao Phraya, the Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok, is only steps from BTS Saphan Taksin, and yet within seconds you are transported from cosmopolitan rush to the tranquillity of gardens and lotus ponds. Much like the Oriental, the hotel epitomises the golden years of Thai hospitality, with an elegant design of marbled grandeur and exceptionally gracious service.
The hotel's signature Thai restaurant, Salathip, is located right on the riverfront. Designed by award-winning Bensley Design Studios, a cluster of traditional teak salas are wrapped by an outdoor deck that extends over the water. Each sala is intimate, seating only 22 guests, with windows to highlight the river view. The outdoor areas are shaded by hundred-year-old banyan trees that lend an almost mythical feel in the evening.
While Salathip is popular for its a la carte menu, we recommend you indulge in a royal Thai tasting menu designed by Chef Yanavit Theerasomboonkun. With ten dishes at only THB 2,100++ per person, 'A Taste of the Golden Land' showcases the best of Thai ingredients and flavours with recipes from the palace.
Chef Yanavit is a bit of an institution, having joined the Shangri-La team over 15 years ago from the Oriental's standard-setting Rim Nam. Jovial, passionate, and proud of his craft, his credentials are unmatched. He trained for five years under the legendary Chef Charlie Amatayakul, whose parents both served in the palace during the reigns of Rama V through VII. He has also had the rare honour of serving both HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn and HRH Princess Chulabhorn Krom Phra Srisavangavadhana.
Putting his own twist on traditional recipes, Chef Yanavit highlights the perfect balancing of flavours – bold yet natural as befitting his Southern roots. He likes to source locally, especially from the Royal Project, and his signature for almost all dishes are foraged edible flowers that add both colour and fragrance.
The meal begins with a chilled lemongrass tea and an amuse bouche. With just one bite, the tartness of Phulae pineapple from Chiang Mai is contrasted with the sweetness of palm sugar and peanut paste.
Next up is an artfully presented platter of bites: of note are the ceviche-style prawn and scallop, stir-fried mushroom wrapped in rice paper, and fluffy light fish cakes.
In a somewhat Western progression of the meal, a tom yum soup is then served solo. Sour and spice are brought to the fore in the clear broth, with sea bass fresh from local waters.
The main consists of four mini dishes served with jasmine or red rice. Whole Phuket lobster, river prawn, blue swimming crab – it's all pretty spectacular and substantial unlike some tasting menus. First the lobster: drizzled with a creamy chu chee curry the fiery colour of the lobster itself – yet the taste is mild, with a hint of lemongrass, complementing rather than overpowering the succulence of the meat. The river prawn is served with pure simplicity – sliced open, charcoal-grilled, and with a thick tamarind dipping sauce. The pad pong garee, a classic yellow curry, is rich with chunky crabmeat. All of this might be overwhelming if not for a refreshing serving of stir-fried morning glory, Thailand's favourite vegetable dish.
Just when you think you can't eat anymore, dessert is served in a half coconut shell with a thin layer of meat still attached. Little kluay khai bananas are lightly poached in syrup, and served with homemade coconut ice-cream.
While the set menu includes food only, the chef recommends pairing with GranMonte wines. A family estate set in the foothills of Khao Yai, its wines are Thailand's most famous, with 100 awards won over the past four years. The extensive wine list also includes selections from across the Old and New Worlds.
A lone kim player sets the tone at the beginning of the evening, but it's the mini khon performances that really set Salathip apart. Featuring only a few players, the troupe shifts between tables recreating scenes from the Ramayana in full costumed splendour. The performances are seemingly impromptu rather than taking over the dining scene, authentic rather than aimed solely at tourists. For locals wishing to introduce foreign friends to a nostalgic slice of Thailand, Salathip is most definitely it.
'A Taste of the Golden Land' is available at Salathip throughout the cool season until 31 March 2020. Advance reservations are recommended, particularly for the outdoor terrace which was fully booked when this writer visited. The restaurant is open 6pm – 10.30pm, with traditional Thai dance performances at 7.45pm, 8.30pm and 9.15pm. The salas are ideal for private Christmas parties for between 20 and 25 guests, and Chef Yanavit also hosts classes for those who fall in love with his cooking.
SHANGRI-LA HOTEL BANGKOK 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu. For reservations, email restaurants.slbk@shangri-la.com, tel 02 236 9952 or 02 236 7777 or book directly via http://www.shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila/dining/restaurants/salathip.
