Blast from the past

Blast from the past

Old buildings are finding new lives

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Blast from the past

Bangkok has witnessed a myriad of old, surviving buildings turned into retail and hospitality spaces, especially boutique hotels and guesthouses. For every whimsical, stylish opening, these historic buildings still hold very much of their past and retain original characters behind their revived, new looks. Guru hits a few cool places.

Ba Hao Residence

Set in the charming, old-fashioned area of Soi Nana is Ba Hao, which means House Number Eight in Mandarin, eight being considered a lucky number by the Chinese. Most passersby would notice the well-known Chinese-themed bar on the ground floor brimming with red neon lights, but probably have no knowledge of what is on the floors above. The unassuming exterior hides a well-preserved gem that takes you back to the 70s. Architect Thanapolpoj Rochnattakul says his intention was to only make changes to the interior of the 50-year-old building where it helped to create better flow through the structure. He compared it to an acupuncturist poking needles at pressure points that require attention to achieve optimum energy flow through the body. The furniture and decor in the guesthouse rooms and in the shared living room reflect his objectives.

(Photos: Ba Hao Residence)

The 40-year-old stairs from the bar lead to a retro-looking common space, that brings to mind a Brooklyn loft, with its exposed brick walls and industrial feel. It is spacious and cosy with vintage brown leather sofas. Guests can have breakfast here and scroll through Netflix shows on the 55-inch TV. The guestroom on the third floor is named Maitri Chit or kind-heartedness in Thai and the floor to ceiling window floods the room with light. The other windows have wooden folding shutters, which are traditional to Thai village homes. The open-concept bathroom, however, is less Thai and a combination of modern and 70s Western styles.

Santiphap (meaning tranquillity) takes up the entire fourth floor. The Thai contemporary design of the room is accented by modern exposed red brick walls and retro green-stained concrete floors. The large glass window atop the bed is the focal point and grabs your attention the moment you enter it. It looks less like a window and more like a picture, as it elegantly frames the golden dome of the Trimitr Temple and the blue sky outside. The balcony stretches the entire length of the room and the folding doors that open to it are fixed next to exposed concrete beams that are from the original building frame.

People who are looking for a nostalgic getaway would appreciate the work that has gone into Ba Hao, while also being able to enjoy modern comforts. Maitri Chit and Santiphap are priced at B3,000 a night.

Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Road / Call 064-635-1989, visit www.ba-hao.com.


Villa Mungkala

In 2013, Ratchaburi native Siriwat Mungkalarungsi strolled through an old neighbourhood on Dinso Road hoping to find a property that he could turn into something special. His preference for attractive ancient homes over dull condominiums brought him to Trok Sin, where a number of Victorian-era houses can be found. Built in 1919, the house was a good example of art deco architectural design that was prominent from the 1910-30s. It was a sleeker version of the colonial-style houses that were popular during the reign of King IV. The building featured geometric volumes, straight lines and smooth, polished surfaces. Its basement was an air-raid shelter used during World War II, with a metre-deep well lined with concrete.

(Photos: Villa Mungkala)

However, Siriwat found the house in a terrible state of decay. He breathed new life into it with eight months of extensive renovations. Villa Mungkala now houses four guest rooms, all furnished in minimalist décor and adorned with antique colonial furniture. The living room is warm with a Chesterfield sofa, a rustic oak bookcase, a vintage German treasure chest and shiny, brown leather armchairs. Some of these furnishings have been purchased from antique stores while others were found in the house. All the elements work together and manage to transport one to the past.

Villa Mungkala can accommodate eight to 10 guests at a time and a night's stay will set you back B1,700 with breakfast included.

Trok Sin, Dinso Road / Call 086-384-7867, visit fb.com/Villamungkala.


Here Hostel

Here Hostel is for lovers of the classic, vintage feel. Only a short walk away from one of Bangkok's nightlife hubs, behind Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall, the hostel is made up of 12 shophouses that are close to 100 years old. They have been merged together and renovated to embody an "old meets new" concept. The result is a humble, yet hip space, where one can savour Thailand's rich heritage in 2020.

The buildings can be traced back to the 1910s when they functioned as wooden shophouses. Now however, even though they retain their traditional look and feel, they have been reconstructed with concrete. The transformative work began in 2014 by architect Sompoom Tangchupong, whose work can be seen at the Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center, next to the hostel. He left the original wooden exteriors intact and divided the interiors into 20 refurbished rooms. The heavy use of wood in the interior and the grunge, scratched wooden walls create a vintage vibe, reminiscent of Thailand of the old days.

(Photos: Somchai Poomlard)

The most outstanding thing is the steep slide that takes guests from the second floor to the lobby. Guests are encouraged to slide down instead of taking the stairs, adding a playful vibe. Equally fun is the garden, which contains a spacious common area, a swimming pool, a sunbathing area, picnic benches and a small bar. It has the laid-back vibe of a 70s hippie commune.

Here Hostel offers a range of accommodation options: 4-Bed Mixed Dorm Room with Ratchanatda Temple View, Ladies Room, Private Standard Room and Private Quadruple Room with Bathroom, to name a few. Room rates range from B520-B590 per night for the dormitory and B1,090-B2,490 per night for the private rooms. Lockable storage facilities, USB ports and reading lights are included for each bed in the dormitory rooms, while shared bathrooms are stocked with fresh towels and free toiletries. All guests enjoy a complimentary breakfast, along with coffee, tea and drinking water throughout the day, available for free in the hostel's pantry.

Ratchadamnoen Road / Call 090-987-7438, visit www.herehostel.com.


1905 Heritage Corner

1905 Heritage Corner is nestled in the well-preserved Phraeng Phuthon neighbourhood, which used to be populated by Chinese traders, who had immigrated to Bangkok with their families in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The colonial-style shophouse has been converted to house three cozy guestrooms across two floors. Owner Varanya Tipayaphan said the building was constructed during the reign of King Rama V and first was a shop that sold dentures, after which it became a teahouse.

Varanya said the original facade had been well-maintained, however, the interiors had been neglected beyond repair. It took four years to rebuild the interiors and to incorporate modern facilities and electrical fittings. 1905 Heritage Corner welcomed its first guests in 2018. It features plastered brick walls and diamond-shaped cement tiles on the roof, as well as antique Chinese suitcases in the rooms, to remind guests of the building's past.

(Photos: Somchai Poomlard)

The Chinese settlers Room has been embellished with Sino-Thai details (B7,000 a night); the Colonial Room has a vintage Western interior and modern comforts (B7,000 a night); and the Tea Room is decorated to capture the feel of a traditional tea house (B4,400 a night). Rooms include breakfast for two, with a choice of American or traditional Thai breakfast.

Phraeng Phuthon Road / Call 02-041-0102, visit www.1905heritagecorner.com.


103 Bed and Brews

A stay at 103 Bed and Brews turns back the clock to Bangkok of the 70s. Although it sits in the midst of old shophouses that have since been turned into hip cafes and bars, this boutique guesthouse insists on keeping its old-school charm. Authentic Thai-Chinese influence is observed in its architecture and adds a nostalgic feel.

Speculated to be built in the late 19th century, the shophouse was once a Chinese merchant's home. It was also where traditional herbal medicines were imported, blended and sold to other Chinese settlers in nearby neighbourhoods. Today the property features two rooms and two suites. Both rooms and a suite come with a mezzanine seating area, accessible via a wooden ladder. The Chinese influence is strong with the vintage wooden doors with brass handles, traditional Chinese-patterned tile floors and Oriental-looking hand-painted porcelain bathroom sinks.

(Photos: 103 Bed and Brews)

"We wanted to restore elements of the building that were lost over the years. We, along with the interior designer, challenged ourselves to bring back as much of the building's previous glory as possible, with a limited budget," said owners Ray MacDonald and Athip Nana.

All rooms are fitted with a no-frills décor and heavy wood accents, adding to the place's charming vintage vibe. With the long windows offering views of the old neighbourhood, one can watch the streets and listen to the buzz of the faint chatter of locals going about their daily routines. Rates per night start at B1,500 (breakfast included).

The dimly-lit space on the ground floor serves as a coffee shop, with cold brews on tap made with Arabica from northern Thailand. At night, the place turns into a laid-back space, with live music on weekends. 

Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Road / Call 02-102-8856, visit 103bkk.com.

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