Disruption comes in many guises, from seismic shocks to the system that turn everything on its head to tidal waves you can still surf to at least a semblance of success.
Mozza by Cocotte, an overnight institution since it opened on the ground floor of the glorified community mall that is EmQuartier as recently as 2017, sustained both kinds courtesy of the Covid-19 game-changer. And lives to tell the tale with some swagger.
Kudos to Hospitality Management Asia (HMA), the brains behind not only Mozza by Cocotte, to give the upscale Italian trattoria its full handle, but nearby at EmQuartier Victoria by Cocotte, Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery, a steakhouse on Sukhumvit 39, plus restaurants in Phuket, Pattaya and Samui.
No question they're thriving thanks to the fab food created from the bottom up with authentic ingredients and burgeoning bar but business school-disciplined direction ultimately accounts for the string of difficult decisions and precision executions responsible for the exceptionally palatable end-products that pack in the peeps.
Hence Mozza and cohorts were even somewhat prepared for the nefarious virus, having already developed a dynamic online ordering and delivery angle to the business.
A large but cosy place with two main entrances that doesn't feel like a mall at all, set around an open kitchen featuring a prettily tiled pizza oven and spilling onto an al fresco terrazzo, putting posteriors on the springy sofas and leatherette banquets and arm chairs was never at issue. After all, they didn't choose to be in the heart of Bangkok's most cosmopolitan, fashionable and, yes, pricy district by accident. But leveraging the full potential was always fundamental to the masterplan.
Nevertheless, the much-bandied 'new-normal' prompted a re-gearing to ensure the smoothest ordering via Facebook, Line and Instagram and free delivery. They will also soon launch their own delivery website to facilitate direct orders between customers and the restaurant.
Now that at least certain aspects of the multi-front and faceted business have returned to near normal, the platform is being boosted further with the launch of its own delivery website coming soon. Simply click the button and hey pesto!
Meanwhile, HMA already has The Gourmet Boutique By Cocotte platform at https://the-gourmet-boutique.com selling its raw products made at its Ekkamai facility.
It would also be remiss not to mention that despite being rocked on its heels by Covid-19, Mozza still found the heart to big up its CSR side, including delivering surfeit stocks of perishables such as dough and breads to the SOS Foundation every Wednesday and Friday.
IS THIS DISH MORE DELISH?
Thank the lingering largesse for the popularity of its provisions that sell themselves on their delectability which, again, is no accident.
Creation of new dishes for the menu is conducted with mini-MBA precision. Genial Ex-Michelin 1 star restaurant "Stefano Cavallini" of London head chef Samuele Alvisi fields ideas from the executive team, diner-feedback and his grandmother (check: Mangia Fuoco pizza – burrata, mushroom risotto, truffle ravioli) through staggered committee stages before anything is allowed to take a bow. Another track involves introducing new dishes as specials of the month such as most recently Ravioli Truffle, Prosciutto & Figs pizza, Chicken Peperonata. If they fly, they, too, make the cut.
Such fecundity feeds itself and explains why Mozza is able to open at 8 am (breakfast is served till noon) and keep its buzz on through 10 pm.
Which brings us to the reason for this visit: the new items that grace the menu from late July 2020.
Let's start with "Italian Board" (980 for 3 cheeses and 3 cold cuts) which despite there being no cooking involved reflects chef's editorial skills in selecting each cheese, cold cut, dried fruit and nut and arranging them like a wedding bouquet.
There's succulent salami toscano from Tuscanny, Parma ham with minimum 5% real black truffle stuffed inside (regular editions are maximum 1%), very good floppy mortadella, ravishingly pungent gorgonzola, sweetly-sharp moliterno pecorino from Sardinia, also with truffle, and toma contrastingly mild semi-hard cheese, along with fruity figs, apricot, plums, cranberries and nutty almonds, whole roasted and flakes.
Needless to say this goes a treat with the house crispy crust sourdough bread made with natural yeast served with tomato butter and regular butter and perhaps a dash of extra virgine olive oil and aged balsamico from the double neck vase.
Not new but relaunched anyway is the signature "Seafood Spaghetti" (790), all pink and cream. Visually starring a grilled tiger prawn, accompanied with scallops, mussels, clams, and shrimp but owing more of its irresistibility to the intricate sauce that binds it all to the perfectly al dente spaghetti. What Samuel modestly summarises as "very simple and classic, nice and tasty" is in fact a gourmet affair of clam stock, garlic, white wine, shrimp oil and parsley oil.
Those more of a meat bent are also in for a treat with "Ravioli Truffle" (720); tortellini-thick pasta pockets packed with firm but fine texture meat balls of pork loin blended with mortadella and Parma ham, slathered with Parmesan and truffle cream sauce and topped with crispy baked Parma ham and freshly shaved black truffle. Addictive.
A new main course is "Chicken Peperonata" (590) where tasty chickens organically raised on a Thai farm are marinated 24-hours with olive oil, garlic, rosemary, thyme and sage. The tender flavoursome birds are baked and then roasted to crispen the skin and served with a classic pepporanata of bell peppers, onion and potato, with a dinky copper pot of lemon sauce made with marination and jus on the side. Sunday roast on steroids.
The new "Rustica Pizza" (590) pits Taleggio and Mascarpone cheese together to create an exceptionally soft, creamy and piquant spread melted over the house 48-72-hour fermented light dough and topped with succulent Italian sausage and roasted potato, creating an awesome ensemble of flavours. Unputdownable.
As for dessert, for the first time Mozza is now serving traditional cannoli, those devilishly delicious puff pastry rolls stuffed with whatnot, in this case a "Cannoli Trio" (290) comprising three cylinders glazed and baked for crispiness and filled with Madagascar Vanilla Cream, 70% chocolate cream, hazelnut cream respectively. No wonder Mozza's all-day opening makes it also a popular spot for afternoon cream cakes and tea.
Besides heading for the main menu, this paragon of cured ham and artisanal cheese platters is a no-brainer for the recently reprised Monday-Wednesday Aperitivo Mozza evenings with special price beers and house cocktails.
Aperitivo di Mozza, every Monday to Wednesday from 5pm to 8pm, offers an Antipasti Board (790) of tomato arancini, fried mozzarella, buffalo caprese, buffalo mozzarella e caponata, mortadella, Parma ham 24 months, rocket salad with balsamic, pork meat ball and pizza bread.
Not your stomping ground? No worries, Mozza is opening at ground floor Siam Paragon later this year.
Mozza by Cocotte*, G/F, EmQuartier. BTS Phrom Phong. Tel. 097-004-0072
www.facebook.com/Mozzabkk
* WiFi sweet spot for True and AIS
