The monumental-looking khao chae has over recent decades been labelled as old-fashioned food. Therefore, young people have had no reference about it while adults have no clue about how to prepare it.
That was until a few years ago.
Due to a retro revival trend reinforced by social media, the once-forgotten legacy of khao chae has now been brought back to life.
Today, khao chae has become summer's much sought-after delicacy and a darling of Instagram.
People love the dish not just for its camera-ready presentation but also because it allows diners to understand the long-treasured culinary traditions our forefathers have passed on to help us beat the sultry weather.
The redefined khao chae platter at Taan restaurant.
It's proof that eating seasonally is one of the greatest gastronomic wisdoms.
The history of khao chae dates back to the 18th century and the reign of King Rama V.
The dish, comprised of rice soaked in water accompanied by a variety of side dishes, is believed to have originated in the Mon community and later made famous in the Thai royal court.
Preparing khao chae demands a long and meticulous, if not secretive, process of labour and understanding. Thus, its popularity faded over time due to the challenge.
The rice used to make khao chae must be old and repeatedly polished and rinsed to remove excess starch before it is steam-cooked. The reason is that when the old rice is soaked, it will retain its firmness and never turn mushy and the water won't become cloudy from the starch either.
The water in which the rice is soaked has to be of specific quality too. It must be ice-cold and scented naturally with jasmine or chommanad (bread flour) and never an artificial scent.
A takeaway khao chae set with hand garlands from Thonglor Thai Cuisine.
Accompanying the rice is at least half-a-dozen choices of bite-sized delicacies prepared -- using intricate recipes -- with very common Thai household ingredients and typical backyard plants.
Other commonly found and quintessential ingredients include luk kapi (deep-fried shrimp paste balls), hom dang yud sai (deep-fried stuffed shallots), phrik yuak sord sai (sweet pepper stuffed with seasoned minced pork and shrimp wrapped in crispy egg netting), chai pow phad kai (stir-fried sweet radish with egg), moo foi (sweet and crispy pork floss) and pla chon hang (caramelised dried fish) and neatly carved fresh fruit and vegetables -- basically green mango, cucumber, krachai (fingerroot) and red chilli.
Eating khao chae too requires a certain tack. The proper way is to eat the rice and the side items separately, one spoonful at a time. Don't put any side items into the rice as it will cloud the water and create an unpleasant odour and taste.
A summer snack of watermelon with sweet dried fish and crispy shallot at Ma Maison Thai, Nai Lert Park Heritage Home.
The following is a list of some of Bangkok's khao chae offerings worth checking out, which are available for dine-in and takeaway.
Flourish
The all-day dining international restaurant of Sindhorn Kempinski hotel offers palace-styled khao chae with a signature highlight of khao ob thien (rice smoked with a scented candle) to be served with ice-cold jasmine water.
Side dishes include a choice of pulled pork or beef; steamed banana chilli stuffed with minced pork; caramelised pickled turnips; and carved vegetables.
The takeaway khao chae set from Miss Siam Thai, Hua Chang Heritage Hotel.
The price is 490 baht per person.
Flourish is located at Sindhorn Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, Soi Ton Son off Sarasin Road. For more information or reservations, call 02-095-9999 or email fb.sindhorn@kempinski.com.
Taan
The modern Thai fine-dining restaurant offers a unique rendition of khao chae that "follows the authentic structure but steps away from tradition".
Prepared with seasonal ingredients from Thailand's many provinces, Taan's khao chae takes diners through new fun-filled arrangement of layers, flavours and textures.
Expect to find gracing the platter the likes of stuffed lacto-fermented lychee, smoked Surat Thani oyster and Ranong lobster as well as sweet fragrant osmanthus flowers. The price is 490 baht per set.
Taan is located at Siam@Siam Design Hotel, Rama I Road. Pre-order is available via 065-328-7374 (Tue-Sat 1-5.30pm) and Line @taanbangkok.
The large set of khao chae from The Mandarin Oriental Shop.
Thonglor Thai Cuisine
This fine-dining Thai restaurant offers authentic khao chae with nine elaborate side dishes.
Among them are salted egg with butterfly pea flowers; crispy shrimp paste balls; sautéed shrimp in red onions; caramelised fish; deep-fried egg wrapped Chinese sausage; sweet shredded pork; and sautéed radish with palm sugar.
A single set is priced at 495 baht; a set with hand garland costs 750 baht; a large set in a wicker basket costs 1,290 baht; and a large set in a wicker basket with a hand garland costs 1,590 baht.
Thonglor Thai Cuisine is located at Staybridge Suites Bangkok, Sukhumvit 55. For more information or reservations, call 02-000-4701 or 092-966-2563 or Line Thonglor Cuisine.
Ma Maison
The traditional Thai restaurant Nai Lert Park Heritage Home presents an authentic khao chae experience at 590 baht per set.
Additional summer snacks of watermelon with sweet dried fish and crispy shallot toppings costs 190 baht; and sweet sticky rice with mango and coconut cream costs 220 baht.
Ma Maison is located at Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, Witthayu Road. For more information or reservations, call 02-655-4773 or 083-096-1171 or email museum@nailertgroup.com.
The Mandarin Oriental Shop
Prepared with the finest jasmine rice from Yasothon province, The Mandarin Oriental Shop's khao chae is offered with traditional side dishes including the rarely-found shredded caramelised sun-dried eagle rays from Phetchaburi province.
Available at The Mandarin Oriental Shops at Central Chidlom (02-252-6863), The Emporium (02-259-8573), Siam Paragon (02-610-9845) and Gaysorn Village (02-656-2118), a single set of khao chae costs 495 baht net while a set for two in Thai-style tiffin box costs 1,850 baht net.
For more information, call Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok at 02-659-9000 or mobkk-restaurants@mohg.com.
Miss Siam
The Thai restaurant at Hua Chang Heritage Hotel is one of the very few places in Bangkok to offer the summer khao chae in all-you-can-eat style.
Priced at 675 baht per person, the offering, available daily for lunch and dinner, includes items such as deep-fried shrimp past balls; stir-fried pickled turnip; shallot stuffed with dried fish; sweet shredded pork; dried chilli stuffed with shrimp; deep-fried salted egg yolk; pork and fish dumplings; chilli stuffed with minced pork; and chilled watermelon with dried fish flakes.
A take-home order costs 450 baht per set.
Miss Siam is located at Hua Chang Heritage Hotel, Phaya Thai Road. For more information and reservations, call 02-217-0777 or Line @MissSiam and facebook/HuaChangHeritageHotelBangkok.
