Remnant of the past

Remnant of the past

Embedded in Satun's stunning natural beauty are the fossilised remains of marine life that existed up to half-a-billion years ago

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Remnant of the past
The Talu cave in La-ngu district is home to marine fossils. (Photos: Thana Boonlert)

Satun was once submerged in the southern hemisphere until the movement of tectonic plates pushed the terrain up. Covering an area of 2,600km² in four districts, its geopark is home to the region's most ancient marine fossils such as nautiloids dating back to the palaeozoic era (between 500-250 million years ago).

"In 2018, Unesco designated it as the country's first global geopark. It is still new to our society even though we have promoted it after the discovery of the stegodon elephant fossil in 2008. Once endorsed, world heritage is under its convention, but a geopark is subject to local law," said Narongrit Thungprue, director of the Satun Global Geopark, in a press trip.

"However, the status needs reviewed every four years. Following the second assessment in June, the result will be announced next April."

Great roundleaf bats in the Talu cave.

Meanwhile, the 7th Asia Pacific Geoparks Network Symposium is scheduled for Sept 4-11 in Satun.

Thani Jaisamut, a local tour guide, has taken up this side job for four years to promote sustainable tourism. Clambering over slippery rocks, he shone his head light into a damp, dark cave. A group of journalists moved slowly, crouching to avoid jagged edges from the ceiling and pushing through narrow crevices. A pothole is evidence of water that once flooded the cave.

"The Talu cave in La-ngu district gradually forms by natural process. When carbon dioxide combines with rain, carbonic acid seeps through and erodes limestone until it creates sharp points. Calcite, a natural calcium carbonate, glows in darkness. It has grown only 1mm year by year," he said.

The cave is only 88m long, but home to the remains of primeval creatures that came before reptiles and mammals.

Thani cast his light over three fossils. First, a nautiloid is a cephalopod mollusc with an external shell. Its body is divided into small rooms. It absorbs water to sink and releases it to move forward, providing a model for the submarine. Second, a gastropod is a mollusc like a snail or slug that moves on one large foot. Finally, a brachiopod is a shellfish that has two joined shells and uses tentacles to find food.

"Marine debris covers and preserves their dead bodies. After hundreds of million of years, the sea has been petrified. When the cave is formed, their fossils gradually appear. Many others may be lying in wait," he said.

Thani Jaisamut, a local tour guide, said the area is sinking due to erosion. 

Researchers have received funding for cataloguing animals. Rueangrit Promdam, a scientist for the Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Natural History Museum at Prince of Songkla University, said the cave is home to other animals. Some can be found at the main entrance, like dragon millipedes and tiny snails.

"But inside, there is a new species of ants with long legs and antennae. It is still being classified," he said.

A colony of around 500 great roundleaf bats hung from the ceiling. Sometimes, they flew overhead and shrieked. He said these nocturnal creatures take shelter in the cave because the damp environment can save their energy. Insect-eating bats can reduce the number of pests and provide guano for local farmers.

At the end of the tunnel lies a lush forest. Surrounded by cliffs, it was once a cave, but the ceiling and land collapsed due to erosion. "It is as if we were in a volcanic crater," Thani said. It is an enclosed area where unique plants can grow, for example cup fungi, malva nut, water vine and a new but yet unnamed plant that belongs to the family of custard apples.

"When human visitors are not around, wild animals will roam freely. Serows left their footprints in the muddy soil. The ecosystem is very sensitive. The presence of endangered species is an indicator of abundance," he said.

Meanwhile, some limestone caves are still alive. Seawater flows through the Le Stegodon cave in Thung Wa district, 4km long. Its name is derived from a stegodon elephant fossil. Inside, stalagmites and stalactites are forming different shapes. Other remains include rhinoceros and ammonite (shelled cephalopods). It is home to many creatures, like short-tail crickets and limestone crabs.

Going further, Hor Si Lang is a large sand dune that appears at a low ebb. A variety of sea grass surrounds the sand hill. Birds nest on different mangrove species. Some of them are endangered, like the great knot. Many sea creatures, such as polychaetes and sand starfish, are found near the shore. Soldier, fiddler and hermit crabs walk in a colourful line.

The Talu cave forms by the natural process of erosion. 

"But estuarine spoon grass, which grows in fertile soil made of sand and clay, is the most outstanding, but vulnerable plant. It is fundamental to the ecosystem," said Asst Prof Kringpaka Wangkulangkul, lecturer in biology at Prince of Songkla University.

"It collects debris and produces fertile berm where organisms inhabit and attract larger creatures, creating a food chain. Studies found that any area where sea grass grows is more abundant and becomes a hotspot of biodiversity."

The wonder of nature provides inspiration for local handicrafts. Founded in 2002, the Panya Batik community enterprise group suffered a sales drop until only a few members remained. Kobkul Chotsakul, the current president, said after joining the geopark's network, it began to create fossilised patterns and use colours from natural materials. In recent years, it has used local terra rossa or red soil to make tie-dye clothes.

"According to the Department of Mineral Resources, terra rossa has a high volume of iron ore, thereby yielding a rusty tone. It was in the same era as fossils that appear on our fabric," she said.

Kobkul said senior members are too tired from bending down, but the nature of handicrafts requires workers who are skilled in drawing batik patterns. Apart from her family members, there are a few staff in the backyard studio. She is offering free and private courses to attract younger people, but "it is very difficult to find someone to carry on tradition".

Technology is now playing a crucial role in preservation. Developed by the National Science and Technology Development Agency, Navanurak allows community residents to manage the digital platform to highlight the latest data. It can store text, images, audio and video.

Actor Alex Rendell and Asst Prof Kringpaka Wangkulangkul survey a sand dune at Hor Si Lang. 

"Once the platform collects more data, it will become a cultural and biological diversity bank," said Thepchai Supnithi, director of the artificial intelligence research group at the National Electronics and Computer Technology Centre. "More than 100 communities are using the platform. It helps preserve vanishing data and provide stories for local products."

Visit navanurak.in.th.

Starfish at Hor Si Lang.

Cup fungi in the cave's forest. 

The cave's forest. 

Paleozoic fossils.

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