Kyo-ryori classics

Kyo-ryori classics

Kinu by Takagi presents seasonal finesse from Fukuoka

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Kyo-ryori classics
The mixed seafood rice with Ariake seaweed.

Seasonal produce is always a culinary quintessence at Kinu by Takagi, the signature Japanese kaiseki restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok.

A venture by two Michelin-starred chef Takagi Kazuo, the restaurant occupies an exclusive chamber on the hotel's mezzanine floor and embodies Kyo-ryori cuisine culture.

Kyo-ryori, literally meaning "Kyoto cuisine", is a refined Japanese cooking style that elevates fresh natural ingredients into exquisitely presented dishes imbued with cultural references and a sense of the seasons.

The approach, which focuses as much on subtlety of taste as it does visual beauty, gained his inaugural restaurant, Kyoto Cuisine Takagi, worldwide acclaim in 2010 when it was first awarded two stars by the Michelin Guide.

Taking cues from its lauded forebear, the Bangkok offshoot which opened in 2019 likewise celebrates the finest seasonal harvests imported from Japan's best sources.

Over the years the restaurant has featured, for example, spring harvests from Shizuoka as well as autumn ingredients from Kyoto.

To celebrate the 15th anniversary of the relationship between Bangkok and Fukuoka (official "friendship cities"), the agricultural finesse of Fukuoka Prefecture is centre stage from now until Feb 28.

The kaki namasu featuring snow crab and scallops with yuzu vinegar jelly and persimmon.

Located on Japan's southerly Kyushu Island and blessed with a humid subtropical climate ideal for growing various kinds of fruit, Fukuoka is one of the top fruit-producing prefectures in the country.

Among its proudest homegrown cultivars are Amaou strawberry and Fuyu persimmon, both prized for their perfectly sweet taste and juicily crunchy texture.

Fukuoka is also the home of Hakata Wagyu, a certified black and brown cattle that promises a richly marbled, melt-in-the-mouth quality. In winter, the prefecture boasts some of the most sought-after oceanic delicacies including Buzen Sea Hitotsubu oysters and Ariake seaweed.

In partnership with Fukuoka officials, Kinu by Takagi features newly crafted menus by the restaurant's Michelin-starred chef de cuisine Norihisa Maeda that will take diners on a journey across the prefecture's agricultural abundance.

The menu is presented through a series of multicourse haute cuisine meals enjoyed in an intimate chef's table style with maximum of 10 guests per seating.

Highlighted dishes include kaki-namasu, a traditional Japanese dish typically enjoyed during the New Year period. Chef Maeda presents the dish through a duo of snow crab and scallops with yuzu vinegar jelly, assorted pickled vegetables and persimmon.

The Hitotsubu oyster with Sturia caviar.

The large, firm, plump and flavourful winter oysters from Buzen Sea, which are available for the first time in Thailand, are showcased in two styles here.

One is deep-fried and complemented by shirako cod fish roe, tofu paste and a chrysanthemum-dashi sauce. The other is poached and capped with Sturia caviar.

Wagyu connoisseurs are guaranteed satisfaction with charcoal-grilled Hakata Wagyu. The teriyaki-style beef is served with chives, yellow egg powder and black truffles.

Ariake seaweed, one of Japan's best-selling products famous for its well-balanced flavours, takes centre stage in a rice dish with mixed seafood and onsen egg.

The vibrant red and super-sweet Amaou strawberry, which ranked No.1 in sales in Japan for more than 15 consecutive years, is made into a multi-layered sublime dessert that showcases the fruit in five different forms including compote, jelly, ice cream and sauce.

Prices are 4,000 baht per person for a five-course lunch and 8,000 baht per person for a 10-course dinner.

The restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations are required.

The Buzen Sea oyster with shirako cod fish roe in chrysanthemum-dashi sauce.

The charcoal-grilled Hakata Wagyu beef with black truffle.

The Amaou strawberry dessert with sake lees cream.

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