'I don't just wear jewellery on my interview days," jokes Charles Leung, the first ever Asian executive to be appointed as CEO of French high jewellery brand Chaumet. "I'm a guy that wears jewellery."
Pointing to the hexagonal bangles and rings with link motifs he is wearing, Leung illustrates his understated mix and matching.
Although different precious metals of various colours are worn, all the pieces from the Liens and Bee My Love collections complement each other because of their glossy polish and uniform hexagon sophistication.
How effortlessly this is all styled by the CEO comes as a surprise when one learns that he had never intended to work in the jewellery industry. After Leung had graduated with a degree in luxury management from ESSEC Business School in Paris, he had his sights set on fashion or perfumes. Instead, he was recruited by Cartier, and thus began his career in the jewellery circuit, which now spans 28 years.
Leung's personal style and ascent to Chaumet's CEO position this past January is a reflection of progressive variances in the world of jewellery.
On being the first Asian to head an LVMH-owned brand, the affable Hong Kong-native says: "I don't want to fail my Asian brothers and sisters, so I must do well. It motivates me to know that whatever I do, it impacts the image of my Asian brothers and sisters.
The Illusion necklace and earrings featuring white gold and Mozambique rubies.
"We must respect, learn and listen to customers here. My presence is to remind that we must break the routine and we must open our eyes to satisfy the diversity of our customers. More people are seeing the importance of Asian customers and for me to be a part of the management team in LVMH is also a sign to show that [the company] is open to that. I'm happy to share my experiences to different people. If I can do it, you all can do it too."
Besides giving talks on university campuses and advice to promising managers, the head honcho is excited to intertwine the maison's long history of French excellence with the modern lifestyle.
Despite being founded in 1780, with an expertise for crafting tiaras and having clientele like French emperor Napolean Bonaparte, Chaumet continues to maintain its relevance alongside its long history.
"I don't think there's any other brand that has crowned a king and has also designed Olympic medals," the 54-year-old CEO comments.
Earlier this summer, Chaumet's designs for the Olympics in Paris had flaunted medals emblazoned with a beehive shape made from iron pieces of the Eiffel Tower. The CEO shares that next year, the brand will represent France again at the World Expo in Osaka, Japan.
"When there is an important occasion for France that we have to represent, we are always representing the highest excellence of France. We will be representing France again next year at the World Expo and we will be at the end of the French pavilion."
The high jewellery collection Chaumet en Scene.
Following Thailand's first boutique, Leung is looking into expanding the brand's retail footprint in southeast Asia, with future stores to open in Indonesia and the Philippines. Customers can still commission one-of-a-kind tiaras, but more everyday and versatile pieces will update the three core collections every year.
While the Liens collection largely features link motifs to symbolise the bonds between two beings, the Bee My Love collection is a hexagon-focused collection inspired by bees. These insects were admired by Napolean for their hardworking and productive nature. The other creations by Chaumet are inspired by the emperor's wife, Josephine, who had famously worn Chaumet's tiaras and made them a fashionable must-have in royal courts.
"Now there's a big boom on small earrings and ear cuffs, so we need to have that -- this wasn't something people needed 150 years ago," Leung explains of their ongoing developments.
"More and more men are wearing jewellery, so we are getting lots of requests for high jewellery brooches. People are more into jewellery for everyday and not just for big weddings, so pieces that can be stacked or mixed and matched are what we must propose.
"For Chaumet, we have to always remember that we are living in the present world, so we must move on with the lifestyle of people today. There is no use to make jewellery that fits with 18th century outfits that no one wears any more."
Timepieces by Chaumet.
For this reason and because of social media's exposure, high jewellery is increasingly designed with a transformable function. This allows for many different possible ways to wear one piece. Fine jewellery is also bolder and more playful, as Leung reveals that customers crave costume jewellery crafted using precious materials.
Having stayed in Bangkok hotels when banquets and weddings happened to be taking place, Leung was able to see how Thais wear their jewellery.
"There's a love for high jewellery and coloured stones here," the CEO observes. "The courage of wearing jewellery in a very individual way is very Thai. It's a sign of confidence and personality -- of people showing their style, taste and how they like their jewellery. People are very comfortable wearing big, important pieces and I love it."
As much of Chaumet's inspirations stem from nature, Leung hopes to draw influence from Thailand's shores.
"Thailand is a beautiful country with beautiful nature, with mountains, beaches, oceans and forests. Chaumet is very much inspired by nature and having come to a country with such diversity of nature, we will fit well here," he says.
Wheat, a symbol for prosperity, is a recurring motif that has been crafted into countless Chaumet pieces and tiaras. Now that the brand has officially arrived in Thailand, Leung dreams of rice, or any other creative endeavours, to be commissioned.
"We've never done rice [jewellery] before because the brand is European, but I can really imagine an Asian customer one day requesting that," he muses. "Rice is part of the culture and tradition here. I find it extremely beautiful. And to wear it on your head is to give utmost respect."
Tiaras, however, are not only reserved for royals. During his many years working in the industry, Leung has seen fathers gifting their daughters' custom-made tiaras and he is moved by the emotional sentiment that is inseparable from jewellery.
"We work for royals in the straightforward sense, but we also work for everyday royals," the CEO says. "We shouldn't limit ourselves to the very few royal persons in this world. I always remember how much people loved Lady Diana, not because she was a princess, but because of what's inside.
Charles Leung.
"Some of the most iconic images we remember of her was when she was wearing jeans and a tee, hugging children or poor people who were sick. We can all be royal inside -- everyone has a bit of human decency inside.
"We should be looking more at classiness, decency and how we present ourselves, not just money and wealth. I believe everyone can be royal if they want to be."
Visit the Chaumet boutique on the 1st floor at ICONSIAM.
