It hardly came as a surprise when The Economist named Melbourne, Australia's second most populous city, as the most desirable place to live on Earth. Why? The capital of the state of Victoria has plenty to offer its residents and visitors alike, from lush nature, charming architecture and exciting diversity that's reflected through the city's never-ending offerings of cafes, restaurants, bars as well as artistic and cultural endeavours.
However, there's more to Melbourne than meets the eye if you're willing to look past the usual tourist haunts and venture into the suburbs.
Located about 2km from the city centre (see sidebar), the graffitied suburb of Fitzroy has gone from being a dingy area full of boarding houses and slums to a mecca for hipsters where the cool and crazy conspire.
Part of the city of Yarra, one of Melbourne's 30 municipalities, the area still embodies its free spirit despite the ongoing gentrification and increasing affordability of housing.
A perfect way to get to know Fitzroy is by exploring its main drag _ the ever-bustling Brunswick Street. Home to the annual Melbourne Fringe Festival, Brunswick Street boasts a seemingly endless supply of funky cafes, fine restaurants, local pubs and quirky shops. Our favourite spot is a Fitzroy institution, Rose Street Artists' Market (60 Rose Street), a weekend market showcasing one-off works by emerging local artists and designers as well as homeware and handmade items. Held on the second Saturday of the month, the less frequent but equally fantastic Blackbird Autumn Market (at the Workers Club, on the corner of Brunswick Street and Gertrude Street) also lets you browse for outlandish knick-knacks, vintage clothes and handmade jewellery _ all in a bar atmosphere complete with live music. Proper boozing, however, is best done at the neighbourhood's many pubs and bars. Among them is the excellent Bimbo Deluxe (corner of Brunswick Street and Rose Street), a rustic watering hole famed for its A$4 (132 baht) pizzas (weekdays from noon-4pm, Sundays-Thursdays 7-11pm and Saturdays 7-9pm). If the weather is on your side, make sure to pop onto the rooftop garden for some fresh air.
Bookworms shouldn't miss one of Fitzroy's oldest bookshops, the Brunswick Street Bookstore (305 Brunswick Street), where, thanks to its "no-stress browsing" policy, you can browse for as long as you wish without getting dirty looks from the staff. If you're more of a music fan or, better yet, a vinyl aficionado, swing by famed indie record shop Polyester Records (387 Brunswick Street), where you can peruse its massive range of CDs and vinyl.
Just off Brunswick Street lies Gertrude Street, Fitzroy's other pride and joy. It boasts art galleries, specialty bookshops and a host of hip cafes and eateries. Title (183 Gertrude Street) also carries new and collectable LPs, but the real highlight is the impressive DVD collection focusing on foreign-language films and rare art-house gems. Coffee snobs better not wander off too far, the adjacent and highly popular De Clieu (187 Gertrude Street) is where you can grab a decent latte while watching the eclectic mix of people that make Fitzroy so fascinating.
Feeling peckish? Set in an intimate space fitted with a communal table and a courtyard, Arcadia Cafe (193 Gertrude Street) serves up a mouth-watering lunch menu that changes daily and relaxed, friendly service. Similarly laid-back, Sonido! (69 Gertrude Street) is a small, kitschy-but-cool Colombian eatery whose house specialties include organic Fair Trade coffee and lip-smacking Latin fare such as arepas (corn pancakes), empanadas (meat filled pasties) and grilled chorizos. More discerning diners may opt for swankier options, including the much-hyped Cutler & Co (55-57 Gertrude Street) which offers a slice of sophistication amid the grungy surroundings.
Conclude your Fitzroy experience at Johnston Street and Smith Street. Hailed as Melbourne's Spanish quarter, the former features plenty of real-deal tapas joints and flamenco bars. November also sees the annual Hispanic Latin American Festival where streets are closed off for a vibrant mix of festivities from dance and music to film and cuisine. And speaking of cuisine, Smith Street goes multicultural with its offerings of cheap international cuisine from Asian to Middle Eastern as well as vegetarian and other healthy options. More vintage shopping can be had at Lost and Found (12 Smith Street) and the treasure trove for secondhand records and books, the Searchers (93 Smith Street).
Finally, finish it all with a bang at Rice Queen (Level 2, 231 Smith Street). Set in a converted ballroom and dance studio, the bar/restaurant whips up an exciting array of tasty Asian dishes including babi guling (Balinese suckling pig) and bun bo xao (Vietnamese rice noodle salad with stir-fried beef). Wash it down with whimsically-named cocktails such as Lady Boy Blue and Well Hyung.
MELBOURNE TO BE WILD: Anti-clockwise from top left: Brunswick Street; Rose Street Artists Market; the popular De Clieu coffee shop on Gertrude Street; Title record shop; and a warm welcome to Fitzroy. PHOTOS: CHANUN POOMSAWAI
