Jaipur, India's Pink City, is world renowned for its gemstone industry. However, in Jaipur's Nahargarh lurks another one of the subcontinent's gems and its national animal. It is also home to one of India's 58 protected tiger reserves and the majestic Bengal tiger (Panthera tigris tigris), among other animals like Asiatic lions.
STAY
A three-hour car ride from Jaipur International Airport, Nahargarh, which means "abode of tigers", is known for its tiger safaris and palatial resorts. Though few are as opulent as Nahargarh Ranthambhore, which is a majestic retreat for a luxurious escape, a few minutes away from Ranthambore National Park.
Nahargarh Ranthambhore.
Encompassed by lush wilderness, Nahargarh Ranthambhore is dressed in ivory white fortifications and set amidst trees offering a tranquil experience of royalty and wilderness. The palace hotel is one of the most indulgent properties in Rajasthan (Jaipur is the capital city), where adventurous safaris and tiger tour moments bring excitement to mornings, while evenings are engaged with cultural performances.
Nahargarh Ranthambhore, which is also known as The Alsisar Nahargarh, is stately and its sheer expanse is not evident when one walks through its arched doorway, complete with the sky showering rose petals as you enter. The grandeur is only absorbed as one explores the vast grounds and palace.
There are 99 king-size deluxe and super deluxe rooms. The imperial rooms have individual courtyards to soak in the greenery, while the 2nd-floor suites have private terraces with views of the national park. Each room is designed in a different colour, style and ambiance. There is also a spa, a colonial bar and grand courtyards, with three swimming pools, including a pool and amphitheatre called Hathi Kund, which is all marble.
The Grand Dining Hall is straight out of Indian Downton Abbey and is so opulent, it may put the series to shame. The hall is replete with fine intricate mirror work and the regal charm of Rajasthan's royalty is evident in each corner. The food at Nahargarh Ranthambhore is Indian and Rajasthani, which is a must-try.
Bageechi, which translates into English as "garden", has a small stage and it is here that Mumbai's fine dining restaurant Masque holds a barbecue annually as part of its "Masque At Nahargarh" weekend event.
However, the crown jewel of Nahargarh Ranthambhore is the Arjun Mahal Banquet Hall, which is adorned with intricate gold leaf paintings and chandeliers. Needless to say, it is mostly used for private functions like a "royal" Indian wedding.
An opulent retreat after a morning spent tiger-spotting or sightseeing.
Ranthambore Fort and Chambal River.
TIGER SAFARI
Forget taking pictures with the tigers. Unless you're headed to Ranthambhore National Park in the summer, the animals are extremely hard to spot despite the rangers being well-informed. It normally takes around five safaris to see one if Lady Luck doesn't shine on you and depending on what zone of the national park you're in.
The extrovert animals are used to people (and that doesn't mean you need to be up close and personal) but they are hardly affected by the sounds of the safari jeeps or the whispers of tourists. The tiger reserve couldn't be more fascinating, amid scrubland and grassy ridges. Tigers at Ranthambore are named and apparently, the most famous one is called Machali (T-16), aka "Queen Of Ranthambore". Just don't call out to her!
Bordered by spikes of the Aravallis and Vindhya mountain ranges on the edge of a plateau and set among an ephemeral forest, hills and wide valleys, the park is flecked with three lakes that add to the beauty of the wildlife, any time of the year.
Tigers aren't the only four-legged creatures in this vast land. Easy to spot are the Sambar deer, Chital and several other deer species. Once near a water body, you may see a few crocodiles basking in the sun. However, they blend so well with the surroundings, unless pointed out by your guide they are a tad hard to spot. Boars are easier to see, while the leopards blend into their surroundings, as well.
The endangered blackbuck are harder to spot since their numbers have declined over the years. However, it is the sighting of a nilgai, also known as the blue bull, that is beautiful. The males have a bluish-grey coat and have a very horse-like appearance, even though they are the largest antelope in Asia. Though you don't necessarily have to be in the park to spot them. Fun fact: In Bihar, they are classified as vermin as they are known to ravage crops.
But Ranthambore is not lush in just land animals. The park is also home to many bird species and is a treat for twitchers. Expect to see the greylag goose, woodpeckers, Indian grey hornbills, common kingfishers, bee eaters, cuckoos, parakeets and owls, among others.
Needless to say, one has to dress in neutral-colours and avoid bright shades. The best time to visit is between June 30 and Oct 1 when all zones are open. Peak tiger-sightings generally occur from March to May at the height of summer. From July to September, Zones 6-10 are open. Safaris are conducted twice a day in the early morning and in the late afternoon and can be booked online via the official government website or authorised agents. You will need your passport for identification when entering the park.
Chambal River and Ranthambore Fort.
OUTSIDE THE PARK
Though Nahargarh is predominately known for tiger safaris, there are other things to do.
The striking 10th century citadel which is the Ranthambore Fort is poised atop a rocky height. Its imposing structure is flanked by massive doorways, encircling 7km of walls, allowing a breathtaking view of the surrounding landscape. The relics of buildings inside this Unesco World Heritage Site house a museum, mosque and various temples. The much-revered Trinetra Ganesha Temple is a major attraction.
The fort is within the national park in an area which used to be the hunting grounds of the kings of Jaipur. It blends the architectural styles of the Rajputs and Mughals, which can be seen in the intricately carved temples and gates. Though one has to be careful of the grey langur (also known as Hanuman langur). Like most monkeys, they aren't afraid of people and are ready to snatch any bags containing food.
Entry to the fort is free and it is open from 6am-6pm, with the best time to visit being at sunset from April to October. You can also trek up to the fort starting from the Aravalli Hills or take a cycling tour.
For the adventurists, the Chambal River is a great spot for sighting amphibians and aquatic animals in their natural habitat. A natural shelter for the rare gharial crocodile, you can also see India's national aquatic animal, the Ganges river dolphin. The river surroundings are also home to more than 300 species of migrant and resident birds.
There is also the Nahargarh Biological Park and Nahargarh Zoological Park to explore, and Sambhar Lake, one of the largest inland salt lakes. The Madhvendra Palace, built by Sawai Ram Singh for his nine queens, is another popular tourist destination. It is a palace with nine apartments decorated with flower motifs and murals. Of course, one could also venture into Jaipur city and see all the wondrous sights it offers.
Masque At Nahargarh Ranthambhore. (Photo: Masque Bombay)
AN IDYLLIC WEEKEND
To combine a weekend of safaris, sightseeing, luxury and fine food, the best time to visit Nahargarh would be during the "Masque At Nahargarh Ranthambhore", which is held annually. It is a celebration of India's food, culture and diversity.
GETTING THERE
AirAsia is the only airline that flies from Bangkok to Jaipur directly. You can also fly to Delhi on Thai Airways or Indigo and then onwards to Jaipur International Airport. Indian visas can be obtained online.
Masque at Nahargarh Ranthambhore
