We usually see coriander on khao man gai (Hainanese-style chicken with rice), pad woonsen (stir-fried glass noodles with vegetables), fried rice, omelette with ground pork, or clear soup with ground pork-stuffed bitter melons.
Coriander is an indispensable accompaniment to dishes like sakoosai moo (sago dumplings with pork and peanut fillings), or pla duk yang nam pla wan (grilled catfish with fish sauce-based dip). Seeing the leaves sprinkled on top of the food might make you think the veggies are probably good for nothing but garnishing.
Actually, coriander is much more than a pretty garnish. Compared to other types of leafy greens, coriander (and its close friend, green onion) is considered essential in most Thai households.
Whatever dishes you are making, you will need some to add to the wok or simply sprinkle on top to make the dish complete: noodle soups, khao tom (boiled rice with toppings), stir-fried chicken with ginger, stir-fried fish with peppers, and many other recipes. Without some leafy, delicate coriander and green onions, those dishes lack the much-appreciated aroma and beauty.
Secondly, having coriander close by means you have access to one of the world's best aromatics, coriander roots. Pounded coriander roots add that sweet fragrance to most Thai curry pastes. Thai stocks, whether made by pork or chicken carcass, need the sweet, peppery kick from coriander roots.
Being able to utilise the whole coriander plant indicates the cook's skill. In Thailand, coriander is readily available in all types of markets, from the most humble ones to high-end supermarkets.
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However, there is a rather special type of coriander. Do not hesitate to grab some if you see it at the market. Found in many local fresh markets close to their plantation fields, such coriander is comparatively slim and small in size.
Its stem is rather short. The leaves may range from the commonly seen round forms, to skinny and spiny ones. You'll find it at a very cheap price, as it is actually an immature version of the plant.
Let's see what makes it differ from mature coriander. The coriander typically found in Thailand is a Taiwanese species introduced here.
Growers would prepare a plot of land surrounded by ditches. Fertilisers are added to the soil. Coriander seeds are lightly cracked, and then soaked to aid germination for a day or two, and then scattered on to the prepared ground. Growers would cover the plot with some rice straws to adjust the amount of sunlight, and then water the seeds regularly. Forty five days later, the greens are ready to be harvested for sale.
When baby coriander starts to grow, its stems are soft, short and slim. The leaves are feathery rather than round. Some bunches may be denser than the others (a result from uneven seeds scattering in the beginning). Growers would pick some out to leave enough room for the rest to grow, and to ensure they will have enough food and water.
Farmers have to find a way to get rid of the excess they picked out. And what would they do with them? A little extra income wouldn't hurt, so they sell the greens at a very cheap price. Shoppers who spot such bargains shouldn't hesitate to buy some. Young coriander is especially fresh and aromatic, not to mention pesticide-free. They also make an inexpensive and beautiful garnish.
There is another type of coriander that seems to be insignificant but you won't regret having some in the fridge. All varieties of tom yam and tom klong need them. Tom klong is a close cousin of tom yam that features pre-cooked (grilled or fried) meat and tamarind paste. The signature aroma of tom klong is enhanced with dried chilies, shallots, holy basil and sawtooth coriander.
Sawtooth coriander is also essential to yam or larb (Thai-style spicy salad) dishes, especially in the north and northeastern regions. The greens may also be used in western recipes. Crusty bread smeared with mixture of butter, garlic and minced herbs such as oregano or parsley is always a crowd pleaser. It's nice to use chopped sawtooth coriander for a change.
The versatility of coriander makes it a kitchen staple. Some might worry about using up the whole thing before it goes bad. There's a way to extend shelf life of corianders. Wrapping the bunch with banana leaf or a piece of newspaper will do the trick. Even if the leaves turn rotten, the roots are still good for cooking.
Coriander (and sawtooth coriander) may seem as though it has a minor role in the kitchen, but now you can see it is more than just a decoration. The delightful texture, vibrant colour and wonderful aroma it adds to numerous dishes should earn this humble veggie a spot in Thai kitchen's Hall of Fame.
