Khrua Khlong Toey Seafood | Bangkok Post: Lifestyle

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Khrua Khlong Toey Seafood

Address:Sunthon Kosa Rd., Khlong Toei, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110 Thailand

Service day:Everyday, Service hours: 17:30-01:30

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Khao tom and Thais are inseparable. The boiled-rice soup is a much-loved choice for breakfast that's also very popular for dinner. We crave the light and soothing khao tom when we're happy and can't live without it when we're sick.

Despite the current summer heat, one of my most contented dinners of the year has been a meal that centred on the piping-hot bowls of boiled rice in a nondescript khao tom joint.

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Editorial Reviews

Fresh from the street

Explore all the flavourful variations of khao tom in Khlong Toey

Snakehead fish tom yum.

Khao tom and Thais are inseparable. The boiled-rice soup is a much-loved choice for breakfast that's also very popular for dinner. We crave the light and soothing khao tom when we're happy and can't live without it when we're sick.

Despite the current summer heat, one of my most contented dinners of the year has been a meal that centred on the piping-hot bowls of boiled rice in a nondescript khao tom joint.

Bangkok boasts countless eateries selling khao tom. Most of them occupy roadside shophouses with part of the dining area set outdoors, on either the street or a footpath, and typically open in the evening.

At these places, the rice is basically prepared in a savoury broth with choices of meat or seafood, or served plain with a variety of side dishes cooked freshly upon order.

In terms of visual quality and culinary offerings, Khrua Khlong Toey Seafood, this week's subject of review, is no exception. But in terms of taste, it proved among the best.

The restaurant is situated right behind a bus stop in the middle of Sunthon Kosa Road near Khlong Toey fresh market. It can be spotted by the brightly-lit shophouse space with a sidewalk display of ingredients and cooking station in the front. Customers can choose to dine indoors cooled by air-con, or on the street enjoying the dynamic cooking with downtown traffic for a backdrop.

Food-wise, the eatery serves up boiled-rice soup with options for protein, including pork, duck, fish, shrimp, squid and oyster. The extensive sides include the wok-fried, the sautéed and the braised, as well as soups and yum (sour-and-spicy salad) to be enjoyed with the plain boiled rice. Of course, the entrées can also be ordered with steamed rice.

Talk about khao tom wouldn't be legitimate without mentioning the quality of the boiled rice. Here, a bite of just the boiled rice (10 baht) proved fragrant, soothing and genuinely worth writing home about.

The restaurant's sidewalk display of ingredients and cooking station in the front.

Khrua Khlong Toey Seafood has no printed menu, so you either choose from a list of signature dishes posted at the shopfront, request your preferred dish or ask for the day's best bet.

Order some of the stir-fried vegetables with oyster sauce and you won't regret it. The Chinese spinach (100 baht) and the mimosa tips (100 baht) are masterfully executed to exhibit the much-expected wok-burnt aroma and the naturally sweet flavour of the vegetables, which can be enjoyed with the rice or simply by itself.

Meanwhile, the stir-fried Chinese kale with salted fish (100 baht) proved delightful for its crunchy greens, well-enhanced by the not-too-salty cured fish.

Clam aficionados will find great satisfaction from the sautéed hoy lai with sweet basil leaves (150 baht). Unlike the versions served at most other places, the dish here was prepared with carefully selected, good-quality clams yielding a toothsome taste and texture. Meanwhile the wok-brewed gravy added a tasty complement to the shellfish.

Savoury boiled-rice soup with red-snapper fillets.

Enjoying the boiled-rice soup with soup of another kind might sound weird to non-locals, but, believe me, the pla chon na (naturally caught snakehead fish) tom yum (350 baht), featuring succulent belly, roe and meaty head of the freshwater fish in sour-and-spicy soup, will be one of the best khao tom accompaniments you've ever had.

And should you crave wok-fried salted Chinese olives with minced pork and prawn (150 baht), you won't be disappointed having it here.

For those in the mood for a personal dish, khao tom pla kao dang, boiled-rice soup with red garoupa fish fillets (100 baht), promises to gratify your palate with the clingy and flavoursome quality of the generous fish meat.

As with just about all khao tom places, there's no dessert on offer. Service by the helpful and sociable employees is charming.

Sautéed clams with basil leaves.

Stir-fried kale with salted fish.

Stir-fried mimosa with oyster sauce.


Khrua Khlong Toey Seafood

Sunthon Kosa Road, off Khlong Toey five-way intersectionCall 02-249-2139Open daily 5.30pm - 1.30amPark along the streetCash only

Location

Sunthon Kosa Rd., Khlong Toei, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110 Thailand

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