Clandestino Cantina | Bangkok Post: lifestyle

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Clandestino Cantina

Address:50, Soi Sathorn 10, South Sathorn Rd., Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand

Tel:+6622354822

Service day:Everyday, Service hours: 18:30-00:00

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Official description

A year after its settlement, Sathorn 10's Cuban-themed cocktail bar, Revolucion Cocktail, is well-charted by Bangkok's bar hoppers and lifestyle enthusiasts. Yet, many haven't seemed to noticed the bar's upstair development. Opened in June of this year, Clandestino Cantina -- aptly named -- sits right atop Revolucion Cocktail, extending the bar's lively Latin culture into a proper sit-down setting. A charming tiled foyer takes you up to the sophisticated yet spunky dining space where fine wooden tables and a cultivated open kitchen meet corrugated metal and vibrant graffiti. Non-white cloth napkins and festive water glasses prepare you for the fancy yet relaxed dining experience you're about to enjoy.

Rating

Editorial Reviews

A Secret Superstar

The Setting

A year after its settlement, Sathorn 10's Cuban-themed cocktail bar, Revolucion Cocktail, is well-charted by Bangkok's bar hoppers and lifestyle enthusiasts. Yet, many haven't seemed to noticed the bar's upstair development. Opened in June of this year, Clandestino Cantina -- aptly named -- sits right atop Revolucion Cocktail, extending the bar's lively Latin culture into a proper sit-down setting. A charming tiled foyer takes you up to the sophisticated yet spunky dining space where fine wooden tables and a cultivated open kitchen meet corrugated metal and vibrant graffiti. Non-white cloth napkins and festive water glasses prepare you for the fancy yet relaxed dining experience you're about to enjoy.

The Menu

What premature reviews have failed to note is that Clandestino Cantina's menu isn't pure blooded Latino. There's a strong Mediterranean character in the cuisine. Take for instance, a featured starter, the Tortilla royal (B190). Served in glass jars, this conceptual tortilla of sweet onion confit and a half-cooked egg yolk immersed in potato mousse could nearly pass for a French onion soup -- an orgasmic one for that. Our next two appetisers were a homemade spinach ravioli (B125), featuring a lovely egg yolk surprise in the centre, and the Queso fresco (B310), a veggie dish highlighting chunky, creamy burrata cheese. Both these dishes demonstrated the same flair as the first starter for combining ingredients in a way that activates flavours. At this point, we really couldn't wait to dive into the mains.

On the specials, the King prawn risotto (B850) is perhaps the best example of Clandestino's Latin and Mediterranean culinary blend. Invisible lime zest and a signature bisque give this risotto a punch that's not traditionally there. As a dish that normally has a more temperate personality, this is one helluva sassy risotto.

Now, while the Clandestino Burger (B590) has been quite a star on social media, we feel like it would be a crime against the gastronomic community to not highlight the Cordero a la parilla (B790), a main course of meaty Australian lamb chops served with Jerusalem artichoke mash, sautéed mushrooms, homemade Italian potato chips and red wine sauce. Holy. Mother. Of. God. If you don't let out some kind of audible expression of ecstasy here, you'll surely be reduced to tears. The entire dish was absolutely divine, augmented by an unexpected moment of pure hospitality when the staff served us the wine we had failed to order for ourselves. Nothing beats this. Be sure to show your appreciation by dousing every bite of lamb with the red wine sauce and leaving not a drop behind.

Tortilla royal.

Insider's Tip

If you've only been to Clandestino Cantina before this month, you've yet to experience the restaurant under the new direction of French chef Manu Mimran. Though the menu isn't greatly altered from when the restaurant first opened, Manu is passionate about good, hearty meat dishes and wants to make a clearer distinction from the tapas menu offered downstairs.

Value and Verdict

Clandestino Cantina exposes the farce of new upscale casual diners that entered the scene this year on the hype ticket. Because so far, none of those restaurants, with all their grand marketing stunts, have left us feeling as simply euphoric as this clandestine canteen. Not only were each of the dishes we tried above average, but we've never truly felt the impact steadfast service can have on taste until now. The service team really nailed the pacing, order and selections of dishes, and maybe it's because they've really got nothing to hide. From taste and service to atmosphere and location, Clandestino Cantina has everything going for it. For now, I won't be spending an impressive dinner budget anywhere else. g

 

Homemade ravioli.

King prawn risotto.

Cordero a la parilla.

Clandestino Cantina

 

Latin American & Mediterranean 6pm-11:30pm Sathorn Soi 10www.Fb.com/clandestinocantina 02-235-4822

Location

50, Soi Sathorn 10, South Sathorn Rd., Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand

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