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Birds Rotisserie

Address:378/1, Nang Linchi Rd., Chong Nonsi, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120 Thailand

Service day:Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Service hours: 17:30-22:30

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After a long silence in Bangkok's gastronomic scene, French culinary authorities are making their names flourish again.

And I'm not just talking about the arrival of Michelin-studded restaurants by world-acclaimed French chefs from overseas over the past couple years.

www.facebook.com/BIRDSRotisserie/

Rating

Editorial Reviews

Birds on a wire

A French-styled roast chicken house serves the best in town

Time-honoured French recipes and cooking technique as well as high-quality ingredients make Birds' roasted chicken different from its counterparts.

 

After a long silence in Bangkok's gastronomic scene, French culinary authorities are making their names flourish again.

And I'm not just talking about the arrival of Michelin-studded restaurants by world-acclaimed French chefs from overseas over the past couple years.

On a domestic level, the gastronomic agendas of Bangkok foodies are seen with an impressive number of home-grown French flair at the top of their lists. They include patisseries, butcheries, charcutiers and affineurs -- all executed by French natives living in Thailand, yet following the culinary heritage of their home country.

Opened a few weeks ago is Birds Rotisserie, a French-styled roast chicken house. The delicatessen-style eatery is a collaboration between five Frenchmen, all veterans in the food service industry.

The kitchen is under the helm of co-owners and chefs Jeremy Tourret (formerly of L'Appart at Sofitel Sukhumvit and El Mercado) and Julien Lavigne (D'Sens at Dusit Thani and Oskar Bistro). Due to the chefs' background in fine dining, Birds' fare is crafted, haute cuisine dexterity and only with top-quality produce carefully selected from the best sources, locally and imported.

Half of Birds' one-page laminated menu is dedicated to the house speciality -- roasted chicken with condiment options.

The delicatessen-style eatery is set in a one-unit shophouse.

The chickens are offered whole (790 baht), half (430 baht) and in a personal portion (280 baht). Combination sets with choices of sauce, potatoes and sides are also available.

Birds' rendition of roasted chicken is one of the best I've eaten. The chicken yielded, underneath its crispy paper-thin golden-brown skin, an extraordinarily succulent meat with each part of the poultry exhibiting distinctive character and mouthfeel.

The key factors that make Birds' different from a typical Thai-styled gai yang (grilled chicken) aren't just the recipes but also quality of the products.

The chickens come from a free-range farm run by a French artisan farmer in Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima. They roam on 92 rai and feed on crickets, corn and herbs. There's no use of antibiotics or added hormones.

At the restaurant, each chicken weighs a precise 1.5kg and is marinated with herbs and spices according to French cooking traditions before being slow-roasted in an imported rotisserie oven. The rotation allows the chicken to be evenly cooked in its juices, which helps retain the flavours and succulence.

The delicatessen-style eatery is set in a one-unit shophouse.

To complement the roasted chicken are eight choices of house-concocted sauce. Although five of them, including Sriracha mayo and herbal yoghurt sauce, were especially delicious and addictive, I would say the chicken was tasty enough it can do superbly without condiments.

Side dishes vary from young potatoes cooked in chicken jus with garlic, thyme and rosemary (120 baht); roasted baby carrots with coriander pesto, cream cheese and toasted sunflower seeds (150 baht); charcoal-grilled sweetcorn kernels with confit tomatoes, coriander and vinegar (120 baht); Provencal grilled aubergine, bell peppers and eggplant (120 baht); and green pea purée (120 baht). All proved to be as much a masterly work as the poultry centrepiece.

Birds' repertoire of salad and light bites blends generosity and simplicity of a home-styled meal with five-star cooking finesse. It lists the likes of a farmer's salad, spiced chicken leg with mayo and mesclun, liver mousse with red plum chutney and gourmet chicken popcorn with a yoghurt dip.

Owners and chefs Jeremy Tourret and Julien Lavigne.

What our party of three settled on was Birds' Caesar (270 baht), a plateful of creamy dressing-drenched cos lettuce, crispy pancetta, freshly-grated Parmesan, soft-boiled organic egg and a quarter grilled chicken. I found the salad the perfect one-dish option for those looking for a healthy and stomach-filling fare that allows them to indulge in the superb quality of the rotisserie chicken.

Equally scrumptious yet a different palate sensation was the quinoa tabbouleh (290 baht). A nutty mouthfeel of heirloom quinoa grains intermingled well with a refreshingly sweet zest of citrus dressing as morsels of water chestnut lent a juicy crunch, with the pomelo pulp giving it an enlivening bitter dash.

House-made chicken nuggets (180 baht) made two of my dining companions gratefully announce, in unison, the dish's reminiscence to grandma-made treats they grew up with. Five juicy pieces of minced chicken fritters comes with your choice of dipping sauce. Comfortingly flavourful, the fritters did not need a sauce.

Fans of chicken burgers have two sandwich options: Black Birds (340 baht) and, in my own words, "stuffed Birds" (290 baht). The first offers grilled chicken with the works, including cheddar, avocado and Sriracha mayo, on a charcoal bun.

While the latter proved a very tasty crossroad between chicken Cordon Bleu (deep-fried, breadcrumb-crusted chicken fillet stuffed with ham and smoked cheese), BBQ sauce, lettuce and tomatoes in an oatmeal burger bun.

Desserts are no second-rate stint here. Birds' chocolate moelleux (130 baht), which comes with brittle nougatine, meringue and caramel sauce, is one of the best-executed molten chocolate cakes in town. Whereas Grandma's apple crumble with Madagascar vanilla ice cream (220 baht) proved the chef's excellent deconstructed version of the classic.

Due to limited seating, reservations are recommended. Delivery service is available from 5-10.30pm.

Time-honoured French recipes and cooking technique as well as high-quality ingredients make Birds' roasted chicken different from its counterparts.

Birds' burger features chicken Cordon Bleu-inspired patty smoked cheese and BBQ sauce on a house-made oatmeal bun.

House-made chicken nuggets.

Location

378/1, Nang Linchi Rd., Chong Nonsi, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120 Thailand

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