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Oskar Bistro

Address:24, Soi Sukhumvit 11, Sukhumvit Rd., Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Thailand

Service day:Everyday, Service hours: 16:00-02:00

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Official description

Many eateries in this tropical Kingdom call themselves a bistro because it sounds French, trendy and inviting. Those wannabes tend to focus more on portraying the ambience and visual vibes of a Parisian joint rather than providing the soul of the real thing.

http://www.oskar-bistro.com/bangkok/, info@oskar-bistro.com, https://www.instagram.com/oskarbangkok/, https://www.facebook.com/OskarBangkok/

Rating

Editorial Reviews

Ooh la la, the real McCoy

Long a popular bar for expats and Thais to hang out, the French food at Oskar Bistro is also truly inviting - and authentic

Braised Charolais beef short ribs with green peas and polenta.

 

Many eateries in this tropical Kingdom call themselves a bistro because it sounds French, trendy and inviting. Those wannabes tend to focus more on portraying the ambience and visual vibes of a Parisian joint rather than providing the soul of the real thing.

Oskar, a six-year-old establishment on Sukhumvit 11, has long been known as a bar rather than a restaurant to most Bangkokians.

However, my visit last week to the 130-seat eatery on the upper floor of its social bar proved there's hardly a place in the city that could be more full-blooded a French bistro than Oskar.

Its French chef-co owner Julien Lavigne crafts up Oskar's menu based on his fondness for comforting, homestyle cuisine.

Up until recently, dishes -- the likes of duck parmentier, beef tenderloin tartare and braised lamb with couscous -- had basically been offered in individual portions. A new selection of generously-sized dishes served in large cast-iron pots for sharing has been added to the menu to offer guests a more dynamic communal feel.

For Oskar's kitchen, stories that encircle the produce are as significant as the taste and presentations of the dishes.

Although known more as a bar, the six-year-old Oskar is a full-blooded French bistro with the kitchen open until midnight to cater to a dynamic international crowd.

Ingredients are carefully sought-after from artisan food producers and organic farmers to demonstrate the restaurant's support for sustainability while reflecting its respect for French standards.

For example, bread is made by a French pâtissier, beef is from a Bangkok-based French butcher and poultry comes from a French-run, free-range farm in Nakhon Ratchasima province. Local seafood is supplied by a sustainable fishery co-op.

Among the sharing dishes that I loved very much was à la marinière mussels (960 baht for a two-person portion). Blue-lipped Dutch mussels, which exhibit a sweeter and more delicate mouthfeel than their green-lipped counterparts, were cooked in white wine with celeriac, shallots and parsley and served with house-made French fries and garlic mayonnaise.

Equally delicious was Fisherman's Pot (1290 baht), Levigne's hearty rendition of seafood bouillabaisse. Of it, an assortment of fresh seafood, namely Norwegian cod fillets, tiger prawns, clams, mussels and cuttlefish, were cooked in fish stock before being drenched with shrimp bisque upon serving.

The soup was accompanied by toasted rustic sourdough bread which was even more heavenly when soaked in the tasty bisque. Or you can have the bread, or the seafood, with house-made spicy harissa chilli dip and saffron-olive oil aioli.

A la marinière mussels with house-made French fries and garlic mayonnaise.

Lavigne made one of the best chicken stews I've ever had. His braised gai khorat in creamy jus accompanied by offal toast (1,490 baht for a whole chicken or 790 baht for half) was prepared with a large, organically-raised rooster slow-cooked for over three hours.

The chicken, with its meat tender, still offering a pleasant chewy feel and a slightly-browned super-thin skin, came immersed in creamy gravy seasoned with champignon mushrooms, Italian pancetta, foie gras and roasted organic potatoes. The accompanying toast with home-made offal spread topping proved a superb complementing carb treat.

The other dish highly recommended, especially if you are a beef loon, is Charolais beef braised short ribs (2,990 baht). The dish was prepared with a highly-marbled cut of special crossbred beef slow-cooked overnight in red wine until the gravy thickens and becomes more intense in flavour.

The super tender and scrumptious short ribs, seasoned with baby carrots and fresh rosemary, was accompanied by side items of garlic-sautéed green peas and asparagus, creamy polenta sprinkled with Parmesan and an extra serving of beef jus reduction.

Organic chicken braised in creamy jus with pancetta and foie gras accompanied by offal toast.

Dessert selection has never been this lavish. Among the new additions were Tout Chocolat featuring chocolate moelleux with warm Gianduja granola, hazelnut praline, honey chocolate ganache and ice cream (240 baht); unbaked piña colada cheesecake with flambé pineapple and sorbet (200 baht); Freaky Sundae, a platter of chocolate fudge with Tahiti vanilla ice cream, salted caramel, almond nougatine and warm chocolate sauce (190 baht); black cherry and tonka bean tiramisu (175 baht); and mango and raspberry tart with vanilla-citrus custard, passion fruit coulis and sorbet (195 baht).

The bistro was packed out by expats, tourists and local foodies. Kitchen opens till midnight. Service, by a large, brisk and friendly team, was beyond expectation.

Fisherman's Pot of Norwegian cod fillet, tiger prawns, clams, mussels, cuttlefish and shrimp bisque.

Oskar Bistro

24 Sukhumvit 11 Call 02-255-3377 Open daily 4pm to midnight Park at a parking space on the opposite side of the street (fee applied)  Most credit cards accepted

Location

24, Soi Sukhumvit 11, Sukhumvit Rd., Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Thailand

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