Ayutthaya was the Thai capital for 417 years. During those centuries a lot happened. Somehow, for many Thais, the first -- and often the only -- thing that pops up when we think of the old city is wars with the Burmese. So when my friend Tui, who is a history buff, convinced me to go do some biking in Ayutthaya Historical Park, I didn't expect it to be much fun. But he proved me wrong.
Actually, the reason for our recent visit to the historical park was Sri Ayodhaya, the TV series set in the Ayutthaya Period. He was excited about the show and wanted me to watch it too. He believes that having a good idea of the actual places can make one appreciate Sri Ayodhaya better.
As you can see in the accompanying map, the old city is an island surrounded by rivers -- with the Chao Phraya on the west and the south sides, the Lop Buri on the north, and the Pa Sak on the east. The Chao Phraya and the Pa Sak merge near the point where the famous Wat Phanan Choeng is located, and flows southward to Bangkok and out into the Gulf of Thailand, serving as a convenient access for ships from overseas.
In its heydays, Ayutthaya was one of the region's most bustling trading hubs. Its prosperity, well documented by merchants and missionaries from Europe, is reflected by the ruins of old palaces and temples that make up the historical park which was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1991.
The historical park takes up much of the west half of the island, which is known by the locals as Koh Muang (City Island). Vihan Phra Mongkhol Bophit and the adjacent ruins of Wat Phra Si San Phet are, of course, among the must-see places for visitors. The first houses a giant seated Buddha image that lends its name to the building. You can't invest in such immense religious structures without a lot of faith and wealth. The latter, home to the iconic three pagodas, was a palace temple which inspired Bangkok to have the Temple of the Emerald Buddha within the Grand Palace's walls.
The big plot of land next to Wat Phra Si San Phet to the north was the site of Ayutthaya's grand palace. It was close to the Lop Buri River. On the other side of the river stands Wat Na Phra Mane which was the only major temple not ravaged during the war that ended the dominance of Ayutthaya in 1767 because it was used as a base by the Burmese army. Like many other Thais, I was familiar with those facts but it was not until my recent bike tour of the old city that I was amazed by Ayutthaya's ability to resist the 14-month siege.
In the rainy season, while the camps of the invading forces were submerged by flood, I bet the Thais in Koh Muang were also suffering a similar fate. The island is no higher than its surrounding areas. Even in present times, the historical park is still prone to flooding.
Let's get to Wat Na Phra Mane. Despite the Lop Buri River, the distance between the Burmese army camp and Ayutthaya's grand palace was just 200m or so. I'm not sure about the range of cannons in those days but from what I saw it was almost point blank. I couldn't imagine how Ayutthaya could manage to withstand that long before it was finally conquered.
I rode to several other temples that afternoon. But no doubt, there is much more about Ayutthaya that I need to go back and explore. If you wish to do so too, this week might be a good time because until Sunday, the historical park is holding its annual fair to celebrate World Heritage status. Apart from the light-and-sound presentation, there are exhibitions and numerous stalls selling local delicacies and other products. As for the Sri Ayodhaya series, I may one day watch it on the internet. For now, the real thing is more fun for me.
Well, see you here again Next Thursday. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya
Trail condition: Road with relatively slow traffic.
Distance: Up to you.
Getting there: Ayutthaya is about an hour's drive north of Bangkok. It's namesake historical park is located in the heart of the city.
Parking: During the fair, parking space in the historical park may not be easy to find. But you can leave your car at one of the temples in outer areas and ride from there.
Food & drinks: Tons of goodies are available at the fair.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: They can explore the historical park and the fair on foot.
Accommodation: Ayutthaya has many resorts and hotels, some of them sit by the riverside.
