A conversation with renowned couturier Somchai "Kai" Kaewthong is usually sparkled with the names of khunyings and historical titbits. It is exceedingly difficult to get the man to talk about himself, even if he would be well justified in doing so having been named this year's National Artist. In fact, today is National Artist Day. And along with 16 other figures who have also been honoured with the title, Somchai will be going through the formalities of royally receiving his recognition pin and honour plaque on this very day.
The 71-year-old is the first to be awarded in the fashion design discipline -- clearly bound to become an inspiration for fashion hopefuls of the future. Yet the fashion designer steadfastly insists: "Someone else has to say those things -- I can't talk about myself. I can talk about myself in the sense of experiences that I am impressed by, but regarding myself, being an idol or a leader for new generations, it needs to be someone else talking about me."
Not that there ever has been a shortage of people holding his clothes in the highest regard. Over the past five decades that Somchai has been fashioning stunning clothes worn by society's elite and those of refined taste, it has become a given that Kai Boutique would become a regular staple of Bangkok's fashion weeks and magazine spreads. But beyond his tailored outfits and wedding gowns that many brides dream of, the name Kai is identified with the support of charities and political movements, as well as with vocal respect for the royal family.
"History was my greatest motivation," he explains of the inspiration that has led him to lead this occupation unwaveringly all his life. "When I was around 15, it was the time Their Majesties the King Bhumibhol and Queen Sirikit went around the world on royal visits. Foreign designers, like Pierre Balmain, had to design all-new outfits, jewellery, tiaras and such for different functions. It created such a buzz, and the news was everywhere. There were evening gowns that retained Thainess and it was so beautiful -- this was my first inspiration in life. Their Majesties were so beautiful, like two idols for the world, and it was an extremely successful advertisement for Thailand."
He croons admiringly at the thought of Queen Saovabha magnificently wearing a Western top with a jongkraben bottom, and of Mia Farrow's frills in The Great Gatsby (1974). Having been born in Pattani with a house right next to the cinema, Somchai could be found watching movies every day and consequently, seeping in all the impressive costumes seen on-screen. That he adored beautiful things and also had a talent pertinent to it -- he could draw -- would lead him on a journey to Bangkok to study at the Poh-Chang Academy of Arts after Mathayom 3. He would later enrol at Silpakorn University, but says loud and clear: "I want to announce it right here that Somchai Kaewthong has never graduated from Silpakorn."
Somchai Kaewthong at Kai Boutique on Ratchadamri Road.
His first clothing store was opened on the 2nd floor of Siam Theatre when he was 21. "I eventually had to choose between studying or making clothes. I chose clothes. I liked being my own boss and have never once regretted this decision I have made."
Kai Boutique would grow into a Siam neighbourhood legend, and although his stores moved around, they all remained in the same vicinity, from Peninsula Plaza to the Krungthep Cable building on Ratchadamri Road. Nevertheless, Somchai has worked alongside mutual legends and credits those experiences as some of the most important in his life. His senior from Silpakorn had asked for his help to design Thai textiles and a catalogue for a ready-made silk-dress store called Star of Siam, owned by a Russian lady called Vera Cykman. Among her close friends were none other than silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson, ballet teacher to the royal family Khunying Genevieve Damon, and Pierre Balmain, the French designer who was commissioned to create Queen Sirikit's clothes.
"I got to work with everyone and I was just so lucky to have known them," he recalls. "I had to balance my work at my own store, then I would walk to Star of Siam in the afternoon. People from that era would remember a man always dressed in black and white, holding a black or white umbrella, walking from Siam to the Ratchaprasong intersection."
At his current store at Krungthep Cable, customers drop in with congratulatory bouquets, but it's all business as usual for Somchai. Age does not slow him down and with his team of 25 workers, outfits are still getting tailored, as they have been for the past 50 years.
"It takes two to eight days for normal clothes, but wedding dresses take between one and six months," he explains. "I like outfits that look simple yet help enhance the personality of the wearer and that have been decorated or detailed in a way that make them look expensive. I still work every day because I can find no one [qualified] to take over for me.
"If it ends, it ends with me -- no one can think of what to do as well as myself."
In his thoughts are also dreams for a fashion museum someday.
"I want to make one that is huge and grand, an architectural splendour that everyone has to come see," the southerner says. "It's not possible, of course, unless we were to create a facsimile. Thai designers never keep or archive anything, and to have a museum, you need to have clothes from different eras in Thailand. Nothing from Ayutthaya is preserved -- it is all in shreds now. I really want to do this fashion museum, but it wouldn't be as sacred as if I really had the very first top that was made by Kai Boutique. It would just be a mirage, but I think we still need to have it, so younger generations will know that 50 or 100 years ago, this was how things were done."
He shakes his head at how art and culture are not properly valued in Thailand, leading to our national treasures popping up in America and receiving neglect from the state.
"It's so hard for fashion designers in Thailand to get started because we have to fight for ourselves and receive no help whatsoever. I want to go back in time to make business in Thailand was more efficient. I want people who have the power to take care of us more, be they the villagers who create textiles, the designers, or even [those who run] public transportation, so everything is easier."
Clearly, Somchai has finally arrived at the National Artist podium through sheer grit and a constant supply of creativity. He admits that he is never out of ideas, but leaves with a parting message that God's gift alone is not enough.
"I can pull creative ideas out of everywhere -- everyone is born with their own talents," he says. "But if you don't succeed at anything in life, you need to look at yourself and ask have you done your best or not? Did you just let your life while away by going with the flow? Even if you go with the flow, will you be a leaf that fell into the river and got stuck in a heap of trash, or are you going to flow down the river and eventually make it to the sea? Talent is something we all have, but pursuance is how we compete with ourselves to use our talent in the right way. Everything requires you to practise and not give up, or else you will never be able to win or stand at the front."
Different corners within Kai Boutique.
Pornprom Satrabhaya
