Fashioning a culture

Fashioning a culture

Chiang Mai Design Week this year showcases innovations and crafts that are part of daily life

Chiang Mai Design Week is now taking place at different venues around the city, offering a contemporary addition to the more traditional landscape.
Chiang Mai Design Week is now taking place at different venues around the city, offering a contemporary addition to the more traditional landscape.

Chiang Mai Design Week 2018 is now under way to highlight creative designs and crafts that can be found in everyday life in the northern capital.

The fourth edition of CMDW -- the yearly gathering of designers, craftsmen and all enthusiasts -- opened last weekend to a gleeful crowd who were ready to explore installations, exhibitions, workshops and markets that were popping up around different landmarks in the city centre such as Tha Phae Gate and Three Kings Monument. The event's theme this year is "Keep Refining", which focuses on developing crafts that can function in everyday lives. It aims to encourage the feasibility of crafts, connect different networks of designers, and develop this creative district.

CMDW is organised by the Creative Economy Agency, with supports from government and private organisations.

"Chiang Mai is a city that already has quite an established creative culture. They have people, culture and city space. So what can we make out of these three? We feel it can manifest into a festival for people to celebrate ideas and cultures with like-minded people," said Intapan Buakiew, director of Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) Chiang Mai.

TCDC was previously under the Office of Knowledge Management and Development, though it is now separated and set up as the Creative Economy Agency (public organisation) to support innovative and creative enterprises, as well as to work on policy regarding the creative economy and develop a model creative district. Charoen Krung district in Bangkok is one example of its effort, with extensions to provincial capitals such as Chiang Mai where CMDW was launched in 2014, and also Khon Kaen where a TCDC office is now established with its own creative festival planned for next month.

CMDW has been developed over the years to interact and engage with both outsiders and locals. The event is set in the city centre so the public can commute with ease, and it also welcomes students, designers, craftsmen and architects from outside of Chiang Mai to join in. One of its aims is to get as many people to take part as possible so they can share and exchange knowledge.

De Lann Jewellery X Surreal Stitch — Sak-Sit Talisman collection.

"People in this city are still not too aware of how designs are interwoven into their lives. However, they're slowly beginning to not feel afraid to interact with design work. For outsiders, they started to gain the perception that Chiang Mai is a city of craftwork. Artists from 19 provinces are showcasing with us this year, and I think they feel Chiang Mai is right for their work," said Intapan. "Bangkok may come with more business opportunities, but they find more like-minded people in Chiang Mai."

He added that, over the years, he has noticed more collaboration between artists based in Chiang Mai and elsewhere, from connections established during design weeks.

Among the artists showcasing their works this year is 23-year-old Silpakorn graduate Papitcha Thanasomboon. She recently received the Outstanding Award at the National Ceramics Exhibition.

At CMDW, she unveiled her Every Day collection at the Chiang Mai City Arts and Culture Centre. The collection is made up of 30 ceramic bowls created using the Nerikomi technique, in which a pattern is created with coloured clay. Each bowl is a reflection of the colours in the sky. The collection is displayed outdoors on mirrors.

"The concept was inspired by nature, from the sky that can get bright, dark, gloomy and change every day on a whim," said Papitcha of her wish to capture those random moments on ceramic works. As unpredictable as the sky, the technique she employed on stoneware clay means she won't be able to see its true colours until the ceramic is baked. So, her process of creation relies a lot on experiments.

"While the shape is quite free-form, it is still in the shape of a bowl. It's something familiar that people can easily identify, as I want people to be able to understand it easily," she said. "The work communicates with the sky, and this technique allows you to see the pattern on both sides."

As one of the youngest exhibitors, Papitcha recalled her visit to CMDW last year. Her experience inspired her to submit her own collection for the 2018 event.

"I feel it's a space where young people can really put their stuff out there," she said. Thailand may have had more galleries and museums opening in recent years as space for craftspeople, but Papitcha feels more spaces are always welcome.

A light art installation near the Three Kings Monument.

While CMDW gives its space for budding and rising talents, another of its highlights this year sees a collaboration between Chiang Mai's 30-year-old craft brand De Lann and fashion designer Surreal Stitch -- a collaboration that was initiated by TCDC. Their collection, Sak-Sit Talisman, is now displayed at the Chiang Mai House of Photography.

Sak-Sit Talisman is inspired by sacred talismans and tattoos that have long been a part of Thai culture and folktales. Superstition is now woven with cotton, beads, leather and metal into accessories and jewellery. The displayed prototypes were made by eight craftspeople over the course of six months.

Watanya Siriwan, founder of Surreal Stitch, said she wanted to present Thainess in the style of pop culture, while making the design feasible. She researched the talismans by strolling through the Tha Prachan neighbourhood in Bangkok where many amulets and talismans are sold.

"I want to present Thainess in a way that the new generation can share in this experience too, and people have been responding quite well to it. They are more than just good designs. There are ideas in it, not just beauty," said Watanya.

Anusit Manityakul from De Lann said this is the first time the jewellery brand has partnered with a designer.

"I think both brands end up with new ideas from this collaboration that can be expanded further, business-wise," he said. "Craftwork can, at times, get stuck in the same old market and style. But a collaboration makes things more interesting and new. We know people don't always like craftwork, as they feel it's outdated, old-fashioned and not applicable to today's fashion. So, we try not to be that. We want crafts to be able to fit into people's lives while also reflecting our own Thai contemporary roots."

Chiang Mai Design Week 2018 continues until Sunday. For more information on available activities and exhibitions, visit chiangmaidesignweek.com.

A table made from leather scraps by Jirawat Leather Goods.

Papitcha Thanasomboon and her Every Day ceramic collection.

Far right Anusit Manityakul and Watanya Siriwan.

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