Winter wonderland, summer retreat

Winter wonderland, summer retreat

Nozawaonsen is rightly famous for its hot springs and skiing. But there's much more to it than that

Nozawaonsen is home to 30 different types of hot springs and 13 public hot spring bathing facilities. Managed by the hot spring association known as Yunkama, the baths are mostly free of charge and open to the public from 6am to 11pm every day. Visitors need to bring their own towels and toiletries and can donate a maintenance fee to a box provided in front of the bathhouse. One of the most notable bathhouses is Oyu at the centre of the town with its Edo-style architecture and atmosphere.
Nozawaonsen is home to 30 different types of hot springs and 13 public hot spring bathing facilities. Managed by the hot spring association known as Yunkama, the baths are mostly free of charge and open to the public from 6am to 11pm every day. Visitors need to bring their own towels and toiletries and can donate a maintenance fee to a box provided in front of the bathhouse. One of the most notable bathhouses is Oyu at the centre of the town with its Edo-style architecture and atmosphere.

Nestled in the northeastern corner of Nagano prefecture, Nozawaonsen is a beautiful little onsen village with a long history, dating back to at least the Edo Period (1603-1868), when the first bathhouse was constructed. Today, this picturesque mountain settlement remains an onsen paradise, and has since become one of Japan's top ski destinations, hailed for its high-quality powder snow.

Stroll along the town's narrow cobbled streets and soak up the traditional architecture and culture. Marvel at the ryokan, temples, shrines and hot springs, and stop to buy fresh local produce and souvenirs. Photos courtesy of Nozawa Hospitality

Situated at the base of Mount Kenashi, Nozawaonsen is a two-hour train ride from Tokyo, thanks to the opening of the Shinkansen line to Iiyama in 2015. The small mountain community (population 3,700) is notable for its sotoyu (traditional public onsen) where locals and visitors have immersed themselves in the therapeutic mineral-rich waters for centuries. There are thirteen outdoor springs and many more indoor bathing facilities with abundant sulphur hot springs, believed to alleviate muscle pain, rheumatism, chronic fatigue and stress as well as promoting beautiful glowing skin.

There are 36 trails in Nozawaonsen Snow Resort with a total run of 50km. With slopes ranging from a 39-degree incline to gentler ones for beginners, skiers and boarders of all skill levels are guaranteed to have a good time.

Snowshoeing and hiking are also popular activities, allowing visitors to marvel at the stunning view of the Northern Japanese Alps and the Sea of Japan on a clear day from the top of the mountain.

Japan is home to many world-class ski resorts, but what sets Nozawaonsen apart is the culture and heritage that can be found along its cobbled pathways.

"Nozawaonsen has a great mix of cultural authenticity and an internationally relevant outlook," said Elaine Teo, a Singapore-based investor and owner of Residence Yasushi. "The town has always had visitors through the ages. It is very welcoming to strangers and that authentic culture is accessible to guests.

"You feel that warmth just walking around, and it stands in contrast to the generally more reserved culture in [the rest of] Japan."

Stroll along the narrow streets, up and down the hilly pathways, and you'll find yourself surrounded by traditional architecture and culture. Everywhere you look, there are ryokan (Japanese inns), temples, shrines and hot springs. Enjoy the sight of visitors and locals wandering around in light cotton yukata with towels around their necks on their way to or from one of the many public bathhouses.

"Nozawa is a real town. People live here all year round, their families grow up here, they feel ownership. These locals bring the culture and difference to the people who visit. It's an ambience you can only experience when you come," said Shushen Ho, proprietor of Elizabeth Hotel Nozawa Onsen.

"People in Nozawa make everything themselves, from food to crafts. International guests increasingly want experiences, not just destinations. There are an increasing number of lessons, such as making soba, dumplings, pottery, weaving and basket making, taught by local people to international guests."

It is important that visitors respect the local people and their culture by following onsen etiquette. That involves getting naked. While stripping off at a communal bath may not be typical for most of us, it is worth embracing the experience. Nothing is more relaxing than lying back in a hot therapeutic bath and relaxing every inch of your body.

Don't forget to stop off for some souvenirs at the local shops and stalls all around town. Popular souvenirs from Nozawaonsen are vegetables, pickles and local crafts.

Despite its modest size, this rustic town is known for its wide range of culinary offerings, with hundreds of restaurants and bars open during the winter season. It offers everything from Japanese (shokudo) to Western and Asian fusion.

While winter is by far the most popular season (officially from December to early May), a big secret that most foreign visitors have yet to discover is that Nozawaonsen is a great place to reside all year round, with countless outdoor activities.

"There's an all-year ski slope, which is popular among Japanese sports teams as well as casual guests. Mountain biking gets more and more popular every year," said Ho.

The Hikage artificial slope is about 500m long, served by its own chairlift and is used by professional athletes for off-season training.

"There are hiking trails all over the mountain. A lot of our Asian guests use Nozawa as a base to go to some of the amazing restaurants in the region," she added.

"This place is fabulous outside the winter season. I'm not a diehard skier and I love going to the onsen, discovering the amazing restaurants, walking in the woods and marvelling at the age-old festivals the town celebrates."

Nozawaonsen Dosojin Matsuri is known as one of the three greatest fire festivals in Japan. Dosojin are gods believed to protect travellers, and are believed to reside along cobbled streets and narrow alleys throughout Japan. Held on Jan 15 every year, the festival originally served as an invocation for a good harvest.

In Autumn, the town is exceptionally beautiful with the changing colours of deciduous trees and shrubs painting the town various hues of yellow, orange, red, pink, purple and brown.

"The forest colours in the mountains are amazing and the walks really recharge you. Everything is at a more leisurely pace. You don't generally need reservations so you can decide on your day's activities as the mood suits you," said Ho.

Peter Douglas, director of Nozawa Hospitality, said the town receives about 350,000 tourists during the winter, a third of whom are foreign visitors. The rest of the year, however, about 90% of the 300,000 tourists are domestic.

"Within 10-15 years or so, Nozawaonsen will become a year-round resort with more guests in the green season than the winter," he said.

Opened about 70 years ago, Nozawaonsen Snow Resort is known for its expansive skiing areas and natural powdered snow. In 1998, the Winter Olympics was held here, leading to a major upgrade in infrastructure and facilities.

Nozawaonsen is not only an ideal winter travel destination. It is worth visiting all year round, with its many outdoor activities, wonderful festivities and farming experiences. Go hiking, mountain biking and kayaking, or do yoga and meditation.

Nozawaonsen is not only an ideal winter travel destination. It is worth visiting all year round, with its many outdoor activities, wonderful festivities and farming experiences. Go hiking, mountain biking and kayaking, or do yoga and meditation.

As a small agricultural-based town, there are heaps of great fresh produce and ingredients available year round. With over a hundred food outlets, from upscale restaurants to hole-in-the-wall eateries, there is no shortage of food options in Nozawaonsen. Photos courtesy of Nozawa Hospitality

As a small agricultural-based town, there are heaps of great fresh produce and ingredients available year round. With over a hundred food outlets, from upscale restaurants to hole-in-the-wall eateries, there is no shortage of food options in Nozawaonsen. Photos courtesy of Nozawa Hospitality

TRAVEL INFO

 

  • Nozawaonsen is located about an hour by road from Nagano City and can be accessed in several ways.
  • From Tokyo airports (Narita and Haneda), you can take the Snow Shuttle Bus direct to Nozawa or rent a car. An easier way is to take the Narita Express to Tokyo station, then change to the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Bullet Train) bound for Iiyama.
  • There are over 20 daily direct flights from Bangkok to Tokyo.
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