Tales from the southern seas

Tales from the southern seas

Between Surat Thani and Phangnga, the wonders of an ancient empire are being unearthed

Replica of a Vishnu sculpture, dating to the 8th century. The original, now at Bangkok National Museum, was found on Khao Phra Narai in Surat Thani. Karnjana Karnjanatawe
Replica of a Vishnu sculpture, dating to the 8th century. The original, now at Bangkok National Museum, was found on Khao Phra Narai in Surat Thani. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

The beach of Laem Pho in Surat Thani's Chaiya district is long and peaceful. The day we visited, there were only a handful of tourists. Also visiting were teams of archaeologists. But they weren't there to take in the sea breeze. They were investigating an ancient maritime cross-cultural trade route, which dates as far back as the 7th century.

Laem Pho was believed to be a seaport during the period of the Srivijaya Kingdom (7th-13th century), an Indonesian city-state which grew to become a major maritime power, controlling international sea trade and developing trade relationships with China and India.

"We found pieces of old ceramics from Tang Dynasty China [7th-10th century], pottery from India and glassware from Persia under the sea around Laem Pho," said Phanuwat Ueasaman, head of the archaeological research team from the 12th Regional Office of the Fine Arts Department.

The religious site on Khao Phra Narai has been renovated and is open to the public. Entry is fee. The Fine Arts Department's archaeology team expects that excavation will be completed soon. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

"We also found similar pieces on the other side of the peninsula, in Phangnga, about 200km away. It shows that an overland route between Surat Thani in the East and Phangnga in the West was part of the old maritime trade routes in the South," he said.

Using this overland route, traders could avoid sailing along the Strait of Malacca, which was full of pirates. This led to the exchange of local and foreign goods as well as religion and culture along the route.

Children play on the beach of Laem Pho. While strolling along the shoreline, you may find broken pieces of ancient pottery. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

Foreign merchants were often forced to remain at trading posts while they waited out bad weather during the monsoon season. While there, they built temples and shrines. Khao Phra Narai (or Khao Srivijaya), a hill 40km south of Laem Pho, is a case in point. It is home to both Hindu and Buddhist sites, dating back over a thousand years.

Khao Phra Narai was listed as a historical site in 1936. Excavation by the Fine Arts Department's archaeological research team started in 1998. After more than two decades, Phanuwat estimates that the work is about 90% complete.

Chaiya National Museum was founded in 1932 to display the collections of the late abbot of Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya in Surat Thani before being taken over by the Fine Arts Department. Most of the artefacts on display date back to the Srivijaya period, according to Kitti Chincharoentham, head of the museum. The highlight is the extensive collection excavated from Khao Phra Narai, including a stone dhamma wheel, broken ceramics, linga and Buddha amulets. Chaiya National Museum also has stone tools, ancient bronze drums, a wooden gable from the old ordination hall of the nearby temple and a Bodhisattva Buddhist sculpture of Mahayana Buddhism. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday from 9am to 4pm. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

Visitors can walk up to the top of the hill, about 33m above sea level, to visit the complex of 19 religious sites, believed to be shrines and temples. After a millennium or so, most of what remains are only brick foundations.

"During excavation and renovation, we found artefacts dating back 1,000-1,400 years," Phanuwat said. Among them were five sculptures of the Hindu god Vishnu. One of these sculptures, still in good condition, is on display at the Bangkok National Museum. A replica can be found at Khao Phra Narai.

Other artefacts found at the site include a Shiva Lingam stone and yoni base, Buddhist amulets, a dhamma wheel, Chinese pottery, Persian turquoise glazed ware and ancient beads. All are on display at Chaiya National Museum in Surat Thani.

This white pagoda is situated at the heart of Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya in Surat Thani. It houses relics of Lord Buddha and is the most sacred site in the province. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

In Phangnga, meanwhile, another archaeological team from the Fine Arts Department has found similar ancient artefacts, including in Ban Thung Tuek in Takua Pa district.

Ban Thung Tuek was a trading port during the 9th and 10th centuries. Hidden within a forested area is a religious complex with Hindu and Buddhist sculptures. Also discovered at the site were pieces of pottery from China, India and Persia.

Today, all that remains are building foundations and scattered pieces of ceramics.

Nearby, on Khao Phra Noe, a hill at the delta of the Takua Pa River is another ancient site. Atop the hill is a Hindu temple, which used to house a 202cm-tall sculpture of Vishnu dating back to the late 7th century. The statue was moved to Bangkok National Museum in 1927, where it is still on display. Also found on Khao Phra Noe were ceramics from Tang Dynasty China and carnelian beads from India.

"The archaeological evidence on both sides of the peninsula clearly shows that an ancient maritime trading route went overland through the South. Like the silk road, the network led to the exchange of culture and religious beliefs that make up part of our heritage today," Phanuwat said.

The archaeological site of Ban Thung Tuek in Takua Pa district in Phangnga looks unappealing with its Hindu and Buddhist sculptures having been removed. However, if you look around and dig up the dirt, you may find broken pieces of ancient ceramics. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

If you happen to be in Takua Pa, be sure to visit the old town. Stroll along Sri Takua Pa road to experience the old ambience of the Chinese community. Along the street, the old shophouses are reminiscent of Sino-Portuguese buildings in Phuket. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

These carvings of Buddhist images can be found in a cave in Wat Tham Khuha in Surat Thani's Kanchanadit district. They were made of clay around the 9th-11th century, during the Srivijaya period. Only a handful have survived. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

TRAVEL INFO

  • The most convenient way to travel to Surat Thani is to fly. Several airlines fly directly to Surat Thani Airport (suratthaniairport.com) from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Chengdu in Sichuan province, China.For more information, visit www.suratthaniairport.com
  • From the airport, you can rent a car from car rental service operators.
  • For more information about Chaiya National Museum, visit www.virtualmuseum.finearts.go.th.
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